Surfing Waves

found this thread on an oceanographers forum...
http://www.oceanographers.net/forums/sh ... php?p=1579

some of it's quite technical but definitely worth a look... interesting reading..

If you enjoyed that you'll like the section in the 1977 surfboard construction and design manual. It's like 150 pages long and has probably a 10 page section on waves. There is somewhere on swaylocks you can download it. Has little pictures and everything