Surfing Waves

I went out yesterday around 10:30. There were a few people out being a Saturday. Not a whole lot in the wave department. Knee to thigh and maybe and I can't express MAYBE enough, a stomach high wave once in a great while. The little drift that was out floated me down to another surfer. We got to chatting and I found out he was a Marine. He too only started surfing a couple of years ago (like me). He was for sure better than me.

My point to the story by the end of our surf about 1:45 we became pretty good friends on the water. A great stoke. He was asking questions about surfing and I told him about this board, as he was actually pretty solid for only surfing for 2 years I hope he comes here.

justloafing wrote:I went out yesterday around 10:30. There were a few people out being a Saturday. Not a whole lot in the wave department. Knee to thigh and maybe and I can't express MAYBE enough, a stomach high wave once in a great while. The little drift that was out floated me down to another surfer. We got to chatting and I found out he was a Marine. He too only started surfing a couple of years ago (like me). He was for sure better than me.

My point to the story by the end of our surf about 1:45 we became pretty good friends on the water. A great stoke. He was asking questions about surfing and I told him about this board, as he was actually pretty solid for only surfing for 2 years I hope he comes here.

I know a lot of military guys who surf. The location of some bases provide nice, secluded surf spots. Camp Pendleton in San Diego is a good example.

when my buddy started surfing he was better than me and actually really good after a month, kinda pissed me off haha. He was doing bottom turns in about a week and cutbacks/floaters soon became second nature to him.

I spent 8 years in the Air Force and was stationed in Hawaii for 4 of them. Talk about the ideal location for a surfer in the military!