Surfing Waves

had a bit of an intresting experance yesterday surfing on the southcoast, got caught inside on some pretty big clean up sets mandged to turtle roll the first 2 but didnt have time to get back on my board when the 3rd one landed on my head. got washing machined a bit and poped up only to find my lesh has snapped and my boards nowhere to be seen. so i think not a problem ill just swim in. turn and start to swim and get cramp in both calfs for the next 5 mins i sit there getting beat the xxxxx out of while im franticly trying to get rid of the cramp, in the end i yelled at another longboarder and he paddled over to help me get in.

scarry thing is if he hadnt i dont think i would have made it back in with the cramps in my legs. ive had leashs snap on me in the past i go through at least 1 a year but ive never been stuck in the impact zone unable to do any thing

eat bananas!!!!


I got trapped same way.....there was so much surf the water was full of bubbles, with all the air in the water I was using all my effort to just stay afloat. This was a long battle of survival, it ended with me kissing the sand.


I broke one yesterday.......was the first one I broke in years.

losing your board on a big day can be pretty bad as your only form of floatation is getting washed into the beach. In rough surf its very very trickey to swim in that surge and particually in impact zone as you have to contend with the undersurge. Its only happened to me once and i wont forget it

saw a guy at my local the yesterday, snapped leash in overhead heavy surf, struggled back, got nailed by the shore dump. looked like he was spewing his guts up on the beach for a few minutes, made it back to the car

put on a new leash and headed back out, fleshin' nuts

Jeez, it was months ago that I cut that leash! Right after you unzipped my wetsuit in fact. I thought it would break far quicker than that!

Do what I do. I wear one leash on each leg. Engineers are taught to rely on redundancy!