Surfing Waves

I have a problem with big drops, everytime I look into that abyss I just can't get myself to go down it, it just looks like it would never end and I would keep accelarating faster and faster. I get the same feeling on a rollercoaster just before going down, the only difference is I don't have to control the rollercoaster while on a surfboard I can't think with all that adrenalin flowing through me, and thus I fall. The weard thing is I am not afraid of the wipeout, since in general although the wave I am surfing is quite fast, the wipeouts are quite mellow. The thing I am afraid of is that adrenalin, the very thing I am after, and I need some help.

The Fafanator wrote:I need some help.

At last, something we can agree on....

Come on, I say one thing and people flame me, what did I do wrong? I just want some advice.

Sheesh.

Angle the board a bit (away from the peak) on takeoff , get to your feet quicky and prompty & get turned onto the face.

i can give you some really good advise but you have to promise to follow it

ok well heres my advise and i would take it if i was you becuse it will give you balls of steel like laird.

1. open your web browser go to bookmarks / faviroutes and delete surfing-waves from there.

2. go to browser history and remove web history.

3. shut down your computer.

4. now this is the hard part but once you have done it things will become so much easyer. walk to your front door open the door and step outside. take a few deep breaths, now go for a walk.

5. when you come back and turn on your computer pretend surfing-waves forum didnt excist and never ever go on there agian. this will greatly improve your surfing ablity, and give you balls as big as lairds

I know what you are going thru! I surf a waveski as well as a shortboard and I can take off on bigger waves on the 'ski than the board. The rush of taking on a monster wave on the ski is awesome! But I hold back when I'm on the board. I'd say just go for it, if you are not afraid of the wipeouts, you'll be right. Just set yourself on the wave and tuck in!

Maby I should just close my eyes and hope I make it...

I tried that once too often, it don't work! Oh and watch out for the bodyboarders, they get upset when you run them over when they get in the way!

^ Do you have any idea what crap I got into because of bodyboarders. The most momroble was that 3 bodyboarders dropped in on me, and I just kept surfing, eventually I was 3 times faster than they where and I fell over them, all out leashes was tangled, and it was a biggish day, a set came and we scurried to get our leashes untagled, but all in vain, we got washed along together for probably about 3 waves untill the set cooled down, and we finaly could get ourselves untangled. Now those bodyboarders will never drop in again... I hope.

a paddle behind the ears soon sorts 'em out! Easy as when they get cheeky!

big drops: man up or get out of the water

wow, why do all your posts sound like some lame short story?

The worst was when a bodyboarder sayed "I've been 'surfing' here for ten years, so the normal rules don't apply to me." I replied: "Actually I've been surfing here far longer than you, infact, you never surfed here once." He couldn't come back from that.

i've never replied to a post of yours before partly because you just seem to irritate the regulars or because the question your asking is ridiculous. This questions is exactly the same. Why bother copy and pasting something you've read when you could be out in the water doing this stuff? oh and give us photos we can then show you what your doing wrong. Muppet

The Fafanator wrote:The worst was when a bodyboarder sayed "I've been 'surfing' here for ten years, so the normal rules don't apply to me." I replied: "Actually I've been surfing here far longer than you, infact, you never surfed here once." He couldn't come back from that.

Y'know what, I take offence at that. I'm a bodyboarder, and so is another highly respected member of this forum. I've ridden waves with guys from this forum, I'd be away doing it this weekend if I hadn't had the ligaments of my knee messed up on wednesday. NEVER has someone told me what I do isn't "surfing" I've never tried stand up surfing, although I'm gonna borrow the board of a friend FROM THIS FORUM this summer and try it. Even if I love it, I won't give up the sponge. Make me any less a "surfer"? none of the guys I've "surfed" with seem to think so. Sure there's goodnatured banter, but nothing as insulting as you just posted.

Usually I just ignore assholes on t'internet, you're not worth my time, but for some reason you just keep on pissing people off. You're always asking for advice, well I'll give you some for free.

You're made with 2 ears and one mouth, and that's the ratio you should use em in.

Big Man wrote:You're made with 2 ears and one mouth, and that's the ratio you should use em in.

Never a wiser word spoken.

Upon some reading of the identical thread on MSW... ( http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewt ... =4&t=12172 )
I wanted to highlight this...

The Fafanator wrote:

u4d18 wrote:Sorry Faf but you're a clown. I'm not even going to grace you with a response to such a stupid post. To compare surfing to a roller coaster ride is so ridiculous it's beyond stupid. For instance when you're in a roller coaster you have no control, it doesn't matter what you feel as it's not going to change the way the roller coaster works. However, when you're taking a big drop you have to focus, believe that you're going to make it and commit. A friend of mine told me that you tell yourself you're going to make every drop, it's not a matter of might, because to be honest in that split second of indecision you've probably blown the wave,

That is exactly the point, I lose controll at that amount of adrenalin, and I don't have the couridge to take the drop. Thus I hesitate, and I waist the wave, that is exactly why I need help.

Just pull your head out of whatever you have it stuck in nd do it. no other way.
Perhaps then you won't get people 'droping in' on you... sounds to me like they're doing this because you keep bottling it and wasting the waves... you don't hve the benefit of the doubt anymore.

sounds to me like they're doing this because you keep bottling it and wasting the waves... you don't hve the benefit of the doubt anymore.

On a crowded day thats a sure way to piss people off. If you gonna paddle for a wave then at least 80% of the time you should make a commited effort to take it. I say 80% because you cant always predict the way a wave will form and dropping down a mutant wave onto shallow reef would be sheer suicide if you catch my drift

Thats why wave knowledge is so important sounds like you (faf) needs to work on that in a big way.