Surfing Waves

Finally got it errr... me, up, on my own, on a wave! I got up in the lessons in Hawaii, but ever since here in Florida I've been struggling just to make it out to the lineup and not drown, and catch something long enough to stand up.

Well today the waves are 2-3' + and perfect for me, the tide was super low so you could even stand out by the outside break at the sandbar.

So, I got like 4 waves before I got pooped out and on the second one (caught the whitewater) I got up! For like 5 seconds, then the wave pooped out

Man, it is SO much harder here than in Hawaii, and when I paddled in I collapsed on the sand for 20 minutes, but it was SUPER FUN.

WOO WOO! I GOT UP!

That's it. You're in. For life

Cool

haha your hooked

I've been hooked since Hawaii. Literally came home from the honeymoon having surfed 3 days, packed up our stuff 2 weeks later and moved to the beach.

Next step: turtle roll/duck dive. I get exhausted paddling back out because every wave pushes me back in. I think I can actually duck dive my 11' board.

now you are in the club.....us and Jesus....you know, the walk on water thing.

congrats

Hooray for LOLRuss!

Went out this morning, didn't catch one wave. Went out again this afternoon... got 10 waves, got up on one... and I turned! Was up for a bit longer this time. SUPER FUN.

LOLRuss wrote:
Man, it is SO much harder here than in Hawaii, and when I paddled in I collapsed on the sand for 20 minutes, but it was SUPER FUN.

WOO WOO! I GOT UP!

why is it harder? less waves? i think thats an over-general statement. it depends on the break and conditions. where did you surf in hawaii?

Its harder than at Waikiki/Haleiwa with someone pushing me into a wave. For one thing, its hard work getting out to the outside break. For another, the surf is rougher and choppier, and there is no clear channel to paddle out in as it is not a reef break, its a sand bar so its pretty random where the waved break. For another thing, I'm always out of position. In other words: I had lessons there, on reef breaks. Here I'm on my own at the sand bar.

Wait until the hurricane season

nice one bro !! keep at it !!