Surfing Waves

Lately, I've been running into co-workers and colleagues that are surprised to learn I will only move my household or take a new job closer to surf. Presantly, I live in northern California. Of the places I can work in my particular engineering profession, I'm only interested in going to Santa Cruz, Ventura, San Diego, Hawaii, and Australia. I could have a new job tomorrow in which I'd return to Germany. When asked one month ago to join a firm there, I said, "You've got no surf!" My present employer asked me to move to Las Vegas. I said, "No, thank you." Co-workers and colleagues have asked, "Is sufing that important?" I say, "Yes." It has become a large component of my physical and mental health even though I have not been doing it all that long. Having been deeply involved in many forms of motorcycling and motorcycle competition for 35 years, it seems perfectly normal to me to love an activity so much, it is all you want to do. I've given up motorcycling having sold all 12 touring, racing and trials bikes in 2005. These leaves me with surfing, which is much less expensive and leads to greater fitness. In addition, it is something I can share with my wife. Given my age, fitness is pretty important. I've got a 61 year old buddy that lives and works in Santa Cruz. He has been since beginning his professional career and never left. He surfs at least 3 times a week and is as lean and fit as you can want to be. That's what I want.

Do you encounter people that don't understand it? I tell them it's not just the wave riding that makes it great. Although, you do get the same thrill when catching the wave perfectly and standing while dropping that you do when making a corner leaned way over on a motorcycle. Being out in the water is always fabulous. Seeing the wildlife is great. Driving to the surf and even getting cold afterwards is fun, too. Getting my ass kicked by a wave is a riot, as well. I've alwasy loved nature and the outdoors and the rougher things are, the better. When my wife and dog go surfing, too, it is even a greater high. I'm sure most of you will agree.

Ha, I remember when I motorcycled I'd encounter so many people that just didn't get it. When you ride you are in the scenary instead of passing it by in an auto with a rolled up window. When you tour, you see fabulous things and smell the smells. When you road race at Laguan Seca, Thunderhill, Buttonwillow, or Sears Point, it's a screaming charge. When competing in observed trials, it is intense concentation in beautiful outdoor settings. I've toured nearly all of the US, some of Canada, some of Mexico, and some of Germany by motorcycle. I commuted daily to work for more than 12 years in the rain and cold, taking the long way just to pick up fun county roads. Hardly anyone at work understood this. Now, they think I'm crazy because I will surf even if it is raining! And this is precisely what I will do this Saturday here in northern California.

Hahahahahaha, I know exactly what you mean. I too have only been surfing for a very short time 1 1/2 years but also rode bikes when I was younger never competitive but more for enjoyment and my bikes were my only mode of transportation (rain, sun or snow). Yep there is nothing like riding and in the same hand nothing like surfing. Both are a lifestyle and if anyone told me that I had to or asked me to move away from the ocean I would just say "Nope aint gonna do it".

My main hobby and love is Bikes, always have enjoyed riding even in the snow, rain etc, Surfing was always something that i wanted to try, i just love the Ocean, just wish i had more time to do both !

Ps World Superbikes start the season Saturday morning !!!!

post too long, read the beginning though....
i know what you mean, i travel back and forth from peru to spain twice a year just to surf, and i've quit other jibs for the same reason, in fact i just quit mine, because i got tired and wanted to go back to peru to surf y ass off, i'm leaving on the 28th!!! so stoked!!

I run into people asking me that question all the time.
My only reply to the question to get them to understand how important it is to me is to tell them that surfing is what keeps me sane. It's the most spiritual thing I do. My girl friend has tried to surf and the only reason she understands it is because she sees how happy I am after I get out of the water, especially on a good day. But, non-surfers will never really understand. For me, surfing and my girlfriend are the most important things in my life.

Well, I sold my bikes to move to a country where I could surf more. So I guess I have to say that I completely understand your point.

My friend lives in Santa Cruz and he says that he won't take any job outside of Santa Cruz area.

too true! not even my girlfriend understands. surf all year in all conditions. was surfing in snow a few weeks ago.. was utterly surreal. waves weren't all that great but the experience was priceless. workmates think i'm crazy. only surfing a short while 8ish months but has become so important to the detriment of everything else. definitely not a hobby and absolutely a lifestyle. trying to convince the girlfrend to move nearer the ocean to no avail. reckon she'll cave eventually tho.

Man, it definitely all makes sense. What you are saying. I feel the same way.. my ex GF was the only one that felt the same way about the beach and ocean as I do.. she understood.

I've been steadily attempting to get closer to the ocean with every move.. I'm now within 2-3 miles.. I will one day have a place that looks out at the ocean. I MUST!

People hassle me that Im paying a bunch of money to live in LA County, near the beach, all that crap.. "You know, you can get a big ass house in Arizona for 1/4 of the price of a SMALL house near the beach."

"You are right.. but then Im living in Arizona.. and NOT at the beach."

To me.. money is money. It comes and it goes.. if I have to drop a little more to be happy and be able to live close enough to bask in the greatness of the ocean and the beach.. then so be it. It's worth it to me.

Dr Rev wrote: "World Superbikes start the season Saturday morning !!!! "
Billie replies: "Even though I don't like him, my money is on Biaggi to take the first race win and the season."

aspiring to be a beach bum... couldn't care less about being broke. a roof overhead, food in the belly, a freshly scrubbed wench, and the ocean in your back yard.... what more could you want?

flapjacks.. everyone needs flapjacks

but seriously I'm with you on that Garb. I certainly don't aspire to be earning big bucks. I'm earning quality of life

It's ruled my life since I was a kid, won't live or work away from the coast, could never do it. I ended up moving to a different country so I could get better waves and still earn a few $$. My wife feels the same, which is handy.

I lived with a chick for a few years before that, who always wanted me to move to London and do the city thing, she could never get why surfing was more important than a new BMW. She got sacked.

yes it is that important if you enjoy it. People spend loads of time trying to earn big bucks so they can enjoy spending it and no-one bats an eyelid, change your lifestyle so that you can spend time doing things like surfing all the time and its seen as odd

Hang 11,
you did the right thing on at least two scores.

A brief tale about perusurf.

Police officer: Perusurf, why are you driving at only 5 mph on this 55 mph highway?
Perusurf: Speed limit sign too long, Officer. Read the first part though

The end.

No offense Brah, but that's the most stupid a$$ questions I've ever read.

OK, just read your whole post. I know you agree that's the most stupid a$$ question ever asked. I'm glad you can appreciate what surfing is truly about after having surfed "not that long."

One of my fav bumperstickers...

"God created the surfboard to keep the truly enlightened from ruling the world."

Welcome to the club Brah.

"God created the surfboard to keep the truly enlightened from ruling the world."

I like that!

billie_morini wrote:A brief tale about perusurf.

Police officer: Perusurf, why are you driving at only 5 mph on this 55 mph highway?
Perusurf: Speed limit sign too long, Officer. Read the first part though

The end.

haha,
how about this:

why would yo go around the hill to the surf spot if it'll take you 1 hour that way, when you can just slide down the hill and it'll only take you 3 minutes, you're still gonna surf but it just won't take you that long and bore you in the way.....
you still get to the point.... specially when you don't have that much time on your hands

I really regret transferring to UCI instead of UCSB. I didn't know there was a uni that was right infront of a beach!