Surfing Waves

I jut got out of the water and I just had the worst sesh in my life, here is what happened:

I got to the spot and I immediatly took my board and jumped in (biggest mistake ever) I paddled over the water, and then, when I was outside, a set came, I paddled for the first wave (mistake number 2) and pearled, and I just discovered it was really hollow today, when I got up after what felt like ages (but probably was more like 5 seconds, if that.) another one came and battered me (this one was atleast 1 1/2 times bigger) and after that another one (which was the biggest wave I ever seen, plus it was hollow and choppy, I could MABY take the size, but not in combination with the hollowness and the choppyness, and in addition to that the water was friggen cold) and one after the other it kept battering me, just giving me enough time to catch a breath or two, it is a wounder my leash held up, good thing I had a 15 mm thick leash. eventually the set ended and I found myself in a very sticky situation, in a (not very strong) rip that head out to outerpool, the biggest boneyard you've ever seen (double overhead that day) and the only way out is to paddle against the rip, or paddle in at outerpool, which was not an option. I paddled for like 15 minutes before I got in (more like washed in), jumbling over the rocks like some sort of ragdoll, as each broken wave hit me. After I scaled the few rocks I fell down on the sand completely exausted, and almost in shock.

Moral of the story: wait a few minutes to asses the conditions before you go in, don't paddle for the first wave of a set, esp if you just got in and most importanly, know your limits, espesially if you suck.

..You learned the hard way, but at least you learned.

Hope it gets better for you.

is this another poem or did it actually happen?

this is the one i thought was an english essay. i had my exams in the summer and this sounds like the 'creative writing' part. although i may be wrong, could be true

This one is true, and I still am a bit shaken, but atleast I know it can't get much worse (I checked the surf report, today was 14ft at 9 secs, I wish I checked it before I went out.) and the part the rip was going to is useully about 2 times the size of innerpool, thank God I am fit.

Woah dude! You're like totally lucky to be alive!!!

Can you teach me how to 'jumble over the rocks' sounds like fun!!!

Have you ever heard of a U.K T.V show called 'Jackanory'??? You'd have been ace on it!!!

O_Danny_Boy wrote:is this another poem or did it actually happen?

Cant add anything construction

well if it is true then you must be nuts surfing a reef after a couple of weeks. and it is obviously well over exagerated but there we go. i think that i have been nice to you so far...but going out in waves double overhead on a reef etc isn't right at your level...not even mine really. double overhead to you is how many feet? 5 seconds is long holdown...normally 2 seconds feels quite long.

I was surfing Jaws the other day & my gun snaped on the drop, got held down for about 2 min, 3 broken ribs & dislocated my shoulder, but it was nothing like that, your the dude faf.

The Fafanator wrote:thank God I am fit.

self praise is no praise but then again this is faf were talking about

ego check on isle 4 please

:)

well if it is true then you must be nuts surfing a reef after a couple of weeks.

nah man he shreds 15 footers

RJD wrote:I was surfing Jaws the other day & my gun snaped on the drop, got held down for about 2 min, 3 broken ribs & dislocated my shoulder, but it was nothing like that, your the dude faf.

I have respect for you. That's a very fatal accident.

pkbum wrote:

RJD wrote:I was surfing Jaws the other day & my gun snaped on the drop, got held down for about 2 min, 3 broken ribs & dislocated my shoulder, but it was nothing like that, your the dude faf.

I have respect for you. That's a very fatal accident.

Cheers, I had trouble staying out of the whitewater too.

i think we had better stop being nasty now. we will get in trouble for bullying

The Fafanator wrote:good thing I had a 15 mm thick leash

There's your problem, I've never heard of one that thick, but if you have got one that size, you won't be paddling anywhere fast with it hanging off the back of your board.

Sillysausage wrote:i think we had better stop being nasty now. we will get in trouble for bullying

its a troll job

?

God Bless ya Faf! Just be a bit more cautious before surfing in unfamiliar waters. If you get hurt, or quit surfing, this forum might get a bit boring! With you around, there's always something to write about!

Sillysausage wrote:well if it is true then you must be nuts surfing a reef after a couple of weeks. and it is obviously well over exagerated but there we go. i think that i have been nice to you so far...but going out in waves double overhead on a reef etc isn't right at your level...not even mine really. double overhead to you is how many feet? 5 seconds is long holdown...normally 2 seconds feels quite long.

It probably was 2 secounds then, all I know is it felt long and I was gaping for air when I came up, and when I looked around I wish I waited a bit before I went out. BTW it wasn't a reef, but a pointbreak, it useually is really predictable and kinda small (a 4 foot set now and then, and alot of 3 footers, or bigger, not as powerfull sets.) but there was a storm a week ago, producing the biggest most choppy conditions ever, and I thought it had setled by now, which it did, for 2 minutes untill it came back.

BTW also I am quite familiar to this place, but that was just weard, I hope the rocks didn't shift or something, that would suck.