Surfing Waves

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:28 pm**

Perfection

Grabbing the block of wax in my hand, gently rubbing it against the fiberglass, looking out to sea, I think to myself, "perfect."

There is a gentle offshore breeze blowing, and the swell is coming in. I grab my suit, and wiggle into it like an epileptic having a seizure (truly the most exhausting part of the day), grab my board, and tiptoe across the rocks like a ballerina crossed with a mountain climber, put on my leash, and jump into the water.

I paddle across the glassy ocean, occasionally duckdiving under a broken wave, until I am completely exhausted. Finally I sit comfortably outside and rest a little while waiting for a wave. With a glassy ocean and hollow waves, I can't ask for more...

Then after a while, the first set rolls in. I let someone else take the first wave, knowing the wave in the middle is always the biggest. I turn around, and start paddling as hard as I can, the wave picks me up, and as I get to the top I give one last paddle and stand up. The wave takes me with a lot of power, I shoot out on the face, and glide across the glassy surface. I give it a few turns, spitting out spray at the top, and then I crouch down, sticking my hand on the face. The lip is curling, and then it barrels over me. I take my hand out of the water and shoot out of the pocket. I am in total bliss, and relief. Take a last turn before turning off and paddling back out, to do it all over again, and again, until my arms turn to jelly.

After four hours I get out, totally exhausted, thinking to myself, "perfect."

The Fafanator

What do you think?

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:06 pm**

pretty good for someone whos only been surfing 3 weeks :roll:

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:07 pm**

this guy talks the most bulls@£t ever

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:10 pm**

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:22 pm**

The Fafanator wrote:I grab my suit, and wiggle into it like an epileptic having a seizure (truly the most exhausting part of the day)

WTF

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:37 pm**

its so corny it makes me wanna puke :spew:

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:03 pm**

this guy doesnt even grease up his wetsuit first, n00b.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:57 pm**

not being funny, but i'm yet to get out of any sorta barrel and you have hardly surfed and can throw spray and get barreled? i must be absolutely **** then.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:02 pm**

me too sillysuasge! I've been surfing a few years (mainly weekends)...only barrel I've come close to is in my local!!!

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:26 pm**

i dout this guy even surfs

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:35 pm**

Jeez your all kooks, no coverups on your 4th surf??

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:57 pm**

The Fafanator wrote:glassy surface. I give it a few turns, spitting out spray at the top, and then I crouch down, sticking my hand on the face. The lip is curling, and then it barrels over me. I take my hand out of the water and shoot out of the pocket.

Mate, you forgot to claim it!

Should read.....

The lip is curling, and then it barrels over me. I take my hand out of the water and shoot out of the pocket, holding my arms up in the air, punching for the clouds, screaming loudly, back arched, and give a smile to all the photogs lined up on the beach, as the noise of cracking shutters drowns out the screams of passion from the reef models who are waiting with bottles of massage oil for my triumphant exit from the water.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:07 pm**

he could've surf everyday for 3 weeks, so who know.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:09 pm**

Reality

Hunting round the back of the car, finding a chuck of dirty wax under the burger wrappers, pulling bits off and sticking it in all the dings on my 7’6” Bic minimal, squinting into the rain and onshore gale, I think to myself, “f**k it’s a wave”.

There is a screaming onshore gale blowing, and the swell is 2ft at 3 seconds. I grab my suit, and put it on back to front, take it off, try again, bust the zip trying to do it up, and then end up with the worst rubber wedgie ever. My ct looks the shiz (truly the most satisfying part of the day), chase after my board as it blows off the roof racks, and try to walk over the wet rocks, slipping on the first, falling over like a sack of sh*t and bust one of my fins off, , put on my leash, snag it round a rock, get rinsed, paddle out some more, and knock another fin out on a submerged rock.

I battle through the onshore slop for 45 minutes, occasionally stopping to wipe the snot off my nose, until I am completely exhausted. Finally I sit comfortably outside and and then spend half an hour fighting the rip trying to get out the back again. With a few random peaks, breaking all over the place, I wonder if it was really worth the effort...

Then after a while, a big set rolls in. I let someone else take the first wave, and act like I really didn’t paddle for it but couldn’t catch it. I keep paddling as hard as I can, because now I’m in the impact zone and too scared to take the next one on the head. The wave picks me up, and as I get to the top I give one last paddle and go over the falls. Backwards. The wave takes me with a lot of power, grinds me into the bottom, and washes me up the beach, proving again that I am a snot ridden kook that had no business paddling out.

After four hours I manage to get out of my wetsuit, totally exhausted, thinking to myself, “maybe I should get a canoe”.

Hang11

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:13 pm**

^ Mate I know you said you were going out last night after work but I didnt know you'd had an epic sesh!

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:15 pm**

hahaa hang11 you should submit that to a mag im not joking thats the funniest thing ive read in ages, i was litterally laughing my freakin ass off

nice one