Surfing Waves

The MetService is warning heavy swells up to six metres high will hit the east coast of the North Island by Friday night.

The main area expected to be affected was between East Cape and Cape Palliser, with the ocean swells building to a high point by Friday night and easing from Saturday night.

MetService spokesman Bob McDavitt said the swell was being generated by former cyclone Gene.

This system had left the tropics and was moving southwards well to the east of New Zealand, Mr McDavitt said.

"We are forecasting that Saturday will be fine and warm with light winds or sea breezes, but anyone encouraged by the weather to go to the beach needs to be aware of the wild surf."

He said the sweep of some of the waves would come well inshore especially on the high tide near dawn and dusk.

As the easterly swell approached the beach it would break up into smaller, steeper rollers and help to form stronger rips than normal.

Mr McDavitt said that while the significant height of the swell - the average of the top third waves - was expected to be around four metres, the occasional wave, one in a hundred or so, was likely to be six metres.

Hang11 wrote:I reckon if that low hits the SI of NZ next weekend as forecast, the whole island might disappear. That's a massive storm.