Surfing Waves

I fanally got the hang of catching unbroken waves consistantly (I could frst oinly catch like one crappy wave a day, or less, because the surf here is big for a beginner, about 10 ft+, so I always hesitated or freaked out) It is like it all came at once, and in 15 minutes I caught 5 waves.
So now after 3 weeks of surfing (excluding the month or two I spent at the local shore dump learning how to duckdive and surfing whitewater, and the two weeks I spent inland for a vacation.) and catching nothing, I suddenly get the hang of it, the first one I caught I was so surprised I temporarely forgot to stand up, but got up evetually, and the got sucked into whitewater because I wasn't on my board fast enough to turn out of the breaking area and past the secound breaking section before it broke. the secound one I overturned the bottom turn and fell on the face of the wave, the third one I perfected the bottom turn, but I wasn't down the line fast enough to get past the section.
The fourth and fith one was basically the same, but I am sure I'll get it and keep it the next time I go out (which is tommorow, hopefully)

The one thing that is weard is that it suddenly just came to me, I didn't change anything in my technique, I just paddled harder and started paddling earlier, plus I didn't look back, I surf for 3 weeks in that point and nothing, but then one day, at the end of my session, I catch 5 waves (it didn't last longer than a secound, but I caught them and did a bottom turn) Now I just have to work on staying on them.

nice... i still get freaked out by 4-6ft waves since i'm a bit afraid of height and injuries to my head from unsuccessful attempts...

I don't worry about head injuries, just getting into an huge boneyard and being washed, it is not a nice feeling to be washed, but I do freak out if I look back and see a curling wave coming towards me, that looks like that the take of is going to be verticle, but while actually catching it, it doesn't look that big, unless it is steep. But I must say I am not going out today, it is too big (16ft, hell no)
Btw, are you talking in hawaiian scale, because if you aren't, then you really have to stop worrying. (an hawaiian scale six footer is about the size of a normal 12footer, the waves I surf are about overhead normally, and on a smaller day head high.)

Here is a link so that you know what I am talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVo_avaeFaQ

This is one of SA's best groms, he came in 3rd in the no fear pro last year, I feel so hounored to be the friend of a pro like him. (this is innerpool in mosselbay, where I live.)

The Fafanator wrote:I don't worry about head injuries, just getting into an huge boneyard and being washed, it is not a nice feeling to be washed, but I do freak out if I look back and see a curling wave coming towards me, that looks like that the take of is going to be verticle, but while actually catching it, it doesn't look that big, unless it is steep. But I must say I am not going out today, it is too big (16ft, hell no)
Btw, are you talking in hawaiian scale, because if you aren't, then you really have to stop worrying. (an hawaiian scale six footer is about the size of a normal 12footer, the waves I surf are about overhead normally, and on a smaller day head high.)

Here is a link so that you know what I am talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVo_avaeFaQ

This is one of SA's best groms, he came in 3rd in the no fear pro last year, I feel so hounored to be the friend of a pro like him. (this is innerpool in mosselbay, where I live.)

are you really friends with him?

youve been surfing for 3 weeks and u paddle out in overhead?

something doesnt add up here

O_Danny_Boy wrote:something doesnt add up here

Breathe in and smell the bullsh*t.

15ft? On any scale... after three weeks? The options are

A) Surf god.
B) Wildly inaccurate wave descriptions.
C) Full of it.
D) That guy that came on randomly making stuff up.

i go with d

im gonna go with a wild combo of b,c,d

How about e?

E) Brain dead

O_Danny_Boy wrote:

The Fafanator wrote:I don't worry about head injuries, just getting into an huge boneyard and being washed, it is not a nice feeling to be washed, but I do freak out if I look back and see a curling wave coming towards me, that looks like that the take of is going to be verticle, but while actually catching it, it doesn't look that big, unless it is steep. But I must say I am not going out today, it is too big (16ft, hell no)
Btw, are you talking in hawaiian scale, because if you aren't, then you really have to stop worrying. (an hawaiian scale six footer is about the size of a normal 12footer, the waves I surf are about overhead normally, and on a smaller day head high.)

Here is a link so that you know what I am talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVo_avaeFaQ

This is one of SA's best groms, he came in 3rd in the no fear pro last year, I feel so hounored to be the friend of a pro like him. (this is innerpool in mosselbay, where I live.)

are you really friends with him?

youve been surfing for 3 weeks and u paddle out in overhead?

something doesnt add up here

I don't actually paddle out when it is overhead, unless it is fat waves, or really smooth and predictable, plus I have bodyboarded before, and when bodyboading a 4 foot wave can feel and look like a 8 foot, because you are lying down on it. I never paddle out when it is bigger than 10 foot wave size (meaning it will be considered a 5 foot wave, and 2.5 foot or less hawaiian)
Sorry if you guys misunderstood me, or if I misunderstood the meaning of overhead, are the waves (not the huge one in slo-mo, the normal ones) overhead or not? I might be confused.

Plus btw I sayed that it is going to be 16 foot, it is not like I am going to paddle out, hell no, nobody paddled out yesterday (the day it was 16 foot), it was a freak storm and was so choppy it was scary.

BTW we aren't really friends, but we do get along quite well, there aren't THAT many surfers here, lke 20, and all the regulars know each other.

(and btw, the thing in my location is NOT seruise, just like some peoples "location: Behind you, go ahead, look." stuff, common, anyone who thought I was seruise has no imagination.

15ft is getting on for double or even treble overhead, even on 'normal' (non-hawaiian) scale. Those are the kind of waves you see in slow-mo on big wave vids.



...And that only goes to half the size you're talking about.



Oh, and one more thing..... banging on about hawaiian/non-hawaiian scale just screams 'KOOK' to everyone else.

Totally agree about the hawaiin scale hooplah

well...i still don't understand hawaiian scale man...think its hard to measure it like that in the uk as the waves we have would mean 1ft hawaiian when its about 6ft face? not sure, don't bother with them myself

The Fafanator wrote:

O_Danny_Boy wrote:

The Fafanator wrote:
This is one of SA's best groms, he came in 3rd in the no fear pro last year, I feel so hounored to be the friend of a pro like him. (this is innerpool in mosselbay, where I live.)

BTW we aren't really friends, but we do get along quite well, there aren't THAT many surfers here, lke 20, and all the regulars know each other.

WTF?

i have more respect for someone who takes a hammering in the white water on a funboard/mal without any clue as to what there doing over someone who ponces around the place pretending to know what there on about when in fact they've prob never even made it out back

thats handy havin those photos! will be constantly checking them now!

Hawaiian scale is made to scare non locals.....create an absurd scale that has nothing to do with the face of the wave(the part you see when guessing size).

I tell you I was one intimidated 11yr old when the guy at the gas station told me and my pops that sunset was breaking 5ft brah. We went straight away to sunset.....my balls jumped into my throat when I saw Jerry and Buttons dropping into what I would still call close to triple overhead.

Pops and I watched a long time and then went back to head high Kaisers.
3 trips to HI since....I have yet to see it that good again....to bad cuz I could handle it now..not like when I was 11 and a pussy.


After my many trips to HI I have decided, Hawaiians can have it...there is plenty of pure goodness on this planet without bad vibes.

drowningbitbybit wrote:15ft is getting on for double or even treble overhead, even on 'normal' (non-hawaiian) scale. Those are the kind of waves you see in slow-mo on big wave vids.



...And that only goes to half the size you're talking about.



Oh, and one more thing..... banging on about hawaiian/non-hawaiian scale just screams 'KOOK' to everyone else.

Maybe I can't judge height but those pictures, to me anyway look approximately 2ft too low for each photo. Assuming the guy is 6ft tall how can a wave that appears 6-12 inches over his head be only a 4 ft wave? It just seems that each photo isn't the small footage claimed.

they seem to be about right but the 8ft one looks a bit bigger to me but not too sure

Sillysausage wrote:they seem to be about right but the 8ft one looks a bit bigger to me but not too sure

Its got a fair bit of face to it that one... Phat. I know what you mean tho.

TBH, I'd read the pics as :

Knee
Waist
Chest
Head
Overhead
1 1/2 Overhead
Double Overhead
2 1/2 Overhead or more??

Like others, I can't see how a wave face that's clearly taller than the bloke surfing it can only be 4ft - nor a wave face that's clearly at least twice the size of the two surfers paddling up the face can only be 6ft - unless all those surfers in the pictures are pigmies or something??

I think some people play down the sizes to like 'hard core' whilst others play up the sizes to look less like kooks.

Personally, I'm happy in smaller surf, because it's less hassle to get out back and is just a more relaxing experience......... IMHO, of course.......

Maybe they are minihuni