Surfing Waves

What is your favorite partof a wave?
Personally, if the wave has power, my favorite part is the take off, because of the rush and that feeling of falling on a steep wave, and if you catch it to late(but dont get pearled), that feeling of a rumbling fall on the whitewater.

My fav. is doing a quick 'S' turn from bottom to top or when you get a nice smack off the lip.

Hitting a solid section and getting big air on reefs..

back dooring if on a wedge.

pulling into a little tube..before getting closed out on and then slammed

^ You LIKE that, damn, I hate getting slammed, basically because wenever I slam it is on rocks, seal point isn't fo sissies

don't like getting slammed, although it can be funny to watch happen to other people, but that split second inside is good. otherwise just after a take off when you can try a nice turn or whatever...although just riding the face can be very enjyable too

tubes all the way for meeven lol i never get out

I love the take off, but I also love a good barrel. Do not like getting smashed.

not exactly a favorite part, but when you take off backside and feel like you're getting pulled back and down so you just lean back real hard against the wave and grab the rail and feel the force of the lip going over your head. mmm.

Other than a powerfull takeoff, I like just doing a turn while grabbing my rail, that rules. (I cant get in a barrel untill winter, and I havn't been surfing that long, so I can't wait till winter when the waves are hollower.)

Today I was out and I had this great late take off and I just 'dropped'. Was an amazing adrenalin rush attached t it. I would say that was my favorite part today

tube is a mysterious place to be. definetly tubing

fleshin' it was big yesterday, 12 footers, only got 2 waves, but fleshin' it was SOOOO big, and soooo steep, the takeoffs are basically big drops, and it was so forcefull, damnit.

in the warm comfort of the womb. The greenwomb. the shack. the tube , barrel. covered, under the curl.



The sound of the tube around you......there is nothing like it on the planet.
The stretching of time.....I liken it to a bad car crash, only with a smile on your face.

the bit thats not smacking me in the face in definately my fave

the wall...definately the wall

reaching the bottom, and grabbin the outside rail

i guess the part i like best is the wall when it's about to break, when it's steepest, so you can do a bottom turn face it straight forward go up vertically and do a gnarly turn right on the lip when it's about to break, and then just come down sometimes drop down, front side or backside, that feel awesome............
the barril is awesome as well...