Surfing Waves

WARNING: extreamly bad spelling.

I got my first really bad wipeout yesterday, when I was badly washed onto the musscle covered rocks, I was going for a wave, which was about overhead, I was a bit late and headed over the falls, I was dragged halfway to shore (quite far) and was washed on several rocks, covered in musscles (thank god that I had a wetsuit on, or else I would have had cuts all over) when I came up, gasping for air, there was a few whitewater waves coming at me, which I couldn't duck under because of the shallowness, and I had to ditch and duck, meaning my board got a little fleshin', then I paddled for my life to get outside, and in the choppy conditions I was in, it wasn't that easy, but I managed to get outside rather quickly, and then realized it wasn't sore at all, infact, it felt quite exilarating, and to be honest, I actually enjoied it.

Share your wipeout stories.

dragged over a reef in clare snapped my leash, struggled to the channel

havent bought a balin leash since

'bristol' in fuerteventura last march. as i was paddling back out, a clean up set rolled in (way overhead) and unfortunately i was in the the impact zone, cleared the first 2 waves then on the 3rd, foot slipped off the tail as i was duck diving it, got sucked over the falls pinned onto the reef for what was only a couple seconds but felt like ages, as i surfaced i got smashed in the mouth by my board, split open my lip, then nailed again with no air in my lungs. when it was finally over i paddled out to the shoulder to the sounds of my 2 'mates' laughing at me. b@stards. i was so wrecked after that. confidence was ruined for the next 2 days. not a good experience but it's all part of the sacrifice for surfing good waves.

The Fafanator wrote:WARNING: extreamly bad spelling.

I got my first really bad wipeout yesterday, when I was badly washed onto the musscle covered rocks, I was going for a wave, which was about overhead, I was a bit late and headed over the falls, I was dragged halfway to shore (quite far) and was washed on several rocks, covered in musscles (thank god that I had a wetsuit on, or else I would have had cuts all over) when I came up, gasping for air, there was a few whitewater waves coming at me, which I couldn't duck under because of the shallowness, and I had to ditch and duck, meaning my board got a little fleshin', then I paddled for my life to get outside, and in the choppy conditions I was in, it wasn't that easy, but I managed to get outside rather quickly, and then realized it wasn't sore at all, infact, it felt quite exilarating, and to be honest, I actually enjoied it.

Share your wipeout stories.

mines just identical to yours. 1 years ago when i was a kook. I thought i died, but fun as hell.

Well, it's not bad to have these experiences. They're helpful in they prepare you for something similar or worse. I had a very bad one once, too, in which one of the ribs in my back was broken when the nose of the board hit it. It hurt, but was bearable. About 2 weeks later the rib was nearly healed. Then, I laid down on the bed (like I thought I had always done) and it broke worse than originally. This time it REALLY HURT - couldn't even take deep breaths. All through this, my wife couldn't tape me up tight enough, so I'd have one of the engineers that works for me tape me up each morning in the office. Oh, and there was no guitar playing while healing. That may have been the worst part.

Trying to surf a shore dump, pearling and taking a mouth full of sand and grit not nice.

Rock hopped at solid Dee Why point, leggie got caught on Cungie -(KunGee in Aussie) pulled the board out from under me -mid air, and proceeded to get smashed against the rock ledge. Removed leggie, got washed back up on ledge then watched following set and board get smashed, fin broken, leggie gets loose and board gets washed up onto rock shelf/starting point right next to me. Limp back up to carpark, bleeding from knees and shin in full view of local spectators and tourists. Load up, get into car and go home. Never to surf Dee Why Point again.
Drowning silently is one thing - it can make you a legend, but public humiliation sucks.

Some of you guys's stories makes mine sound pathetic.

allyoz wrote:'bristol' in fuerteventura last march. as i was paddling back out, a clean up set rolled in (way overhead) and unfortunately i was in the the impact zone, cleared the first 2 waves then on the 3rd, foot slipped off the tail as i was duck diving it, got sucked over the falls pinned onto the reef for what was only a couple seconds but felt like ages, as i surfaced i got smashed in the mouth by my board, split open my lip, then nailed again with no air in my lungs. when it was finally over i paddled out to the shoulder to the sounds of my 2 'mates' laughing at me. b@stards. i was so wrecked after that. confidence was ruined for the next 2 days. not a good experience but it's all part of the sacrifice for surfing good waves.

aren't mates brill just when you need em eh

Wiped out on a smaller day and when I surfaced had my board come down skag first on my head, have a dent in my head to show for it. Was catching 6' shore break, ate it and landed head first into the sand bar, came up missing some skin on that one. Was riding shore brake again, had the lip smash my face in as I was going across the face of the wave and got a pretty good pounding. Funny thing is that these are some of my most fond memories of surfing. I love it.

ANZAC wrote:Rock hopped at solid Dee Why point, leggie got caught on Cungie -(KunGee in Aussie) pulled the board out from under me -mid air, and proceeded to get smashed against the rock ledge. Removed leggie, got washed back up on ledge then watched following set and board get smashed, fin broken, leggie gets loose and board gets washed up onto rock shelf/starting point right next to me. Limp back up to carpark, bleeding from knees and shin in full view of local spectators and tourists. Load up, get into car and go home. Never to surf Dee Why Point again.
Drowning silently is one thing - it can make you a legend, but public humiliation sucks.

My first time at seal point sucked bad, I didn't know about the rip going from innerpool to outerpool, and got sucked in, I thought I'll never surf there again, but now I surf there every day.
Go out at that point sometime, when it is flat(ish) out, it will give you self confidence you never dreamed of having, and by the way, that isn't humiliating, I brag about my cuts, since that day people actually take me sereusly in the water, the say you can't consider yourself a surfer untill you eat bad xxxxx.

Cabo Blanco, North of peru a perfect wave, it breaks over a rock reef and in front of some gnarly rocks, i actually have a picture of my wipe out, the wave wasn't that big, but it was still pretty strong, i was hoping to get in the barrel but the wave closed out and dragged me into the rocks.....

here's the pict.

Why would you surf in places like that?? So scared of getting hit by the rock after a wipeout

pkbum wrote:Why would you surf in places like that?? So scared of getting hit by the rock after a wipeout

why ?????? you ask.....

beacuse it gets like this!!!!

or like this....

The Fafanator wrote:Some of you guys's stories makes mine sound pathetic.

Doh! And there was me thinking you were comfortable in 16ft waves. Not reefs tho.

bluyan wrote:

allyoz wrote:'bristol' in fuerteventura last march. as i was paddling back out, a clean up set rolled in (way overhead) and unfortunately i was in the the impact zone, cleared the first 2 waves then on the 3rd, foot slipped off the tail as i was duck diving it, got sucked over the falls pinned onto the reef for what was only a couple seconds but felt like ages, as i surfaced i got smashed in the mouth by my board, split open my lip, then nailed again with no air in my lungs. when it was finally over i paddled out to the shoulder to the sounds of my 2 'mates' laughing at me. b@stards. i was so wrecked after that. confidence was ruined for the next 2 days. not a good experience but it's all part of the sacrifice for surfing good waves.

aren't mates brill just when you need em eh

tell me about it! they better watch out when they're in a similar situation!!! haha

northswell wrote:

The Fafanator wrote:Some of you guys's stories makes mine sound pathetic.

Doh! And there was me thinking you were comfortable in 16ft waves. Not reefs tho.

No, I sayed that it is going to be 16ft, and I am NOT going in, and maby I had a typing error on others when I meant 6ft. BTW you sould have seen it today, it was scary just looking at it, espesially because it changed so fast, I went out in the morning, and it was 7ft, and when I came back at 5 in the afternoon, it was stormy as hell and HUGE, people all over mosselbay came to look at it, it was crazy, the water almost went over the road, I wounder what caused it.