Surfing Waves

Up until last week, so 11 days ago, I was working 6 days a week and didn't really have time to surf much. I've had a bit of time off, and I've surfed every day twice or maybe 3 times a day.
Now it's all I can think about. If I'm not surfing I'm watching surf dvds, or typing on here, or checking the forecast, or looking at boards.
Even when I close my eyes to sleep I see sets rolling in, then I dream about surfing.
If I don't get to surf I get SO stressed out. I spend time when I've just got out of the sea watching the waves roll in for ages.
I think I'm going crazy. As soon as the board is in it's bag I'm wondering when I'll be able to surf next. When I first started if I had a bad session, that would put me off for a couple of days, but not now.
Am I the only one like this??

Its an addiction for sre... some people get it worse than others. I'm with you on the worst side :p Gett propper stroppy if I've not been in for a while

I'm having a bad day today. You have virtually written exactly how I feel right now. The only thing you missed is that funny feeling in your stomach when you think about it.

Do you ever wonder what life was like before surfing?

i feel the same but hay got a trip at the end of the month

Hey Keef, do you live near the sea? I have exactly the same experience too. I got a new board earlier in the year and my surfing and confidence has increased so much this year! I live 120 miles from the sea but I go as often as I can. My problem is my wife now thinks my board is most definatley the 'second woman'!
After a session I always feel like I'm still 'going up and down' after being out back, even to the point that weekend just gone my wife woke me up 'coz I was physically going through the paddling motion with my shoulders and kept wakin her lol!!!
Without a doubt it is an obsession, but better than a negative one! Gets me through the 'working week' just thinking about when next session will be.

derbyshire surfer wrote:After a session I always feel like I'm still 'going up and down' after being out back, even to the point that weekend just gone my wife woke me up 'coz I was physically going through the paddling motion with my shoulders and kept wakin her lol!!!

hehe - i get the sea motion thing too but have never paddled in my sleep. Classic!

derbyshire surfer wrote:Without a doubt it is an obsession, but better than a negative one! Gets me through the 'working week' just thinking about when next session will be.

Keef - you are most certainly not the only one! Im not as bad as I was prior to the oh so flat summer we had, think a little bit of stoke did leave my system over that. I do seem to become even more neurotic when I go without surf for a few weeks.

Sorry to bring a downer on it but the quote above is the issue I have with just waiting for the next surf. Assuming you work 5 days a week and get to surf 2 that means that you're only really living and enjoying 30% (less? I dunno I did the math in my head and am feeling pretty thick tonight) of your life.
Get another focus too people - sex, collect stamps and teapots, hiking, cycling, climbing,? whatever! anything! - otherwise you'll have spent waaaay too much time waiting for the next surf and being miserable about it.




what a cheery thought - you're most welcome

Nice one Sar.....stamps! Never thought of that, got day off tomorrow I'll go to an antique shop lol!
I am planning a Sky Dive sometime soon, just got to save the £'s!

get more exercise. move to hawaii and get jaded. i cant surf unless the waves are taller than me from bottom to top on the face... so maybe 3-4 foot surf. im 6 feet.

Nice one, how much would I want to surf in Hawaii! Probably cr#p myself if more than a couple of feet tho! Must be awesome for you over there?

aha.
i indeed suffer from the same thing.

i only get to go to the beach on saturdays pretty much cuz i have no other way to get there cept for my parents.
who work during the weekday.
i live about 30 minutes from the beach and my parents take me EVERY weekend which makes me feel kinda bad,
but then again...im doin something i love and they love mee, so technically it all works out..
")

so the rest of the week im left daydreaming constantly about the next saturday...

like literally dozing off every day in school.

its not a very nice feeling.."(


i really oughta to find out what i need to do to get my permit so i could go after school

but the thought of those extremely long lines at the DMV sway me away...


:/

derbyshire surfer wrote:Nice one, how much would I want to surf in Hawaii! Probably cr#p myself if more than a couple of feet tho! Must be awesome for you over there?

surfing is fleshin' great. but like i said, you get jaded. EVERYONE does. at the popular breaks you dont see more than 10 guys out at a spot when its small. when its big, theres 50 or more. if you go to the less popular ones, no one else will be out. its not worth the risk of sinking on a small wave and gashing you and your board on the reef.

Yep cant stop thinking about it, an i'm counting down the time coz at 11:45 am on me way down south for a two week surf road trip in my van,

No one understands unless they surf, Split up with me girlfriend last nite coz of it but i cant wait to go get wet

yea its addictive...i live kinda far from the beach so im forever watchin dvds!

The best thing is when watching a t.v. programme or film and I see the sea I'm thinking I wish i was there surfing or check out them waves. does me head in living so far from the beach and not having a car

lucky me, I can see the sea from my bedroom window, don't even have to get out of bed. But the reef here is not surfable, so I have to drive 15 minutes down the road.

I was feeling miserable up until I posted this....... now I feel quite good