Surfing Waves

i have to say Trebarwith Strand, North Cornwall in mind winter wsa really scary it was about 15 ft faces but gnarly and white water everywhere, freezing cold and not a nice experince i have to say.

the others were St Quens in Jersey - channel islands and a summer surge hit, it threw up good ten foot faces and it high tide before i realized i could no longer ride the waves as i was too close to the sea wall no, the wavs were going right over the top of it, and i had to just sit out in thse massive waves,

and apart from Fistral in winter also, where i almost drowned was a place called Playa De Garcey in feuteventura, last winter. Honeslty i expected nothing but there is the massive ship wreck of a US ship at the bay, and the waves crash against the cliffs, bear in mind there are sharks as well, also cold water, the ocean is deep and black, and the waves were powerful off the atlantic- 15 - 20ft face that day, and town for a good 40 - 50 mile its a scary thought.

ill upload some pictures of some of the places later, put yours up aswell

well scariest place i surfed wasnt even big. It was just on an ulta negative tide over a reef. you could see bare rock appear and unless you were trimming high up on the wave you would get eaten alive. The take off zone was so critical that it just wasnt funny. Still feel kinda stupid for surfing that day in those conditions

surfdoubleoverhead wrote:the waves were powerful off the atlantic- 15 - 20ft face that day, and town for a good 40 - 50 mile its a scary thought.

You surfed 20 foot waves?

Some may laugh but I have to say low tide six foot Croyde:



It gets really dredgy and poweful with a lot of water moving around, but it's rewarding when ya get in the barrel.

Been all around the world to surf but Croyde takes it.

here are those pics, the first two are of feuteventura - Playa De Garcey,
the second two are of Trebawith strand

this is st quens bay at high tide, i dont know who took it but it looks the same as when i just had to sit and wait for the tied to go out.

the dot on the second pic of play de garcey - is me actually surfing it was taken by my mate - hi tomo if your reading this.

Try that for horrid paddle outs

ye, that what we reckoned they were from the cliffs and when you were in their belive me it felt like it too. Also another place after seeing Croyde, i was surfinf woolacombe last year when a storm came in, the pics are here.

isaluteyou wrote:

Try that for horrid paddle outs

WHAT!?!

Just walk along the bridge and jump in!

surfdoubleoverhead wrote:the others were St Quens in Jersey - channel islands and a summer surge hit, it threw up good ten foot faces and it high tide before i realized i could no longer ride the waves as i was too close to the sea wall no, the wavs were going right over the top of it, and i had to just sit out in thse massive waves

The main break at St Ouen (Splash) is fine - no big rocks to worry about plunging into, although getting too close to the sea wall at high tide (especially spring tides) ain't the best idea, even more so now they've strengthened the stretch (adding a three foot chunk of concrete along the bottom of the wall). Stinky Bay and Corbiere are bloody lethal - HUGE granite formations that are clear as day when the tide is low completely disappear at high tide - still got various scars on my arms, legs and feet from being dumped on one a couple of years ago.

It would have to be some spot x I got taken to near Gisborne in NZ. Had to climb 200 feet down a cliff using a rope, straight into the sea, shallow reef, overhead waves, I bailed on one, got my foot stuck in a hole, was stood in knee deep water watching a set about to unload on my head, just about survived, then to get out, I had to ride a wave into the base of the cliff, grab the rope, and climb up it before the next wave hit - no beach at all. Climbing 200 feet up a rope with a longboard is so not fun either.

I've had much scarier waves, but as an all round package that place was right up there. I was really wasted too, which made it all a lot worse.

WHAT!?!

Just walk along the bridge and jump in!

ya but only in the early morning when lifeguards are off duty

isaluteyou wrote:well scariest place i surfed wasnt even big. It was just on an ulta negative tide over a reef. you could see bare rock appear and unless you were trimming high up on the wave you would get eaten alive. The take off zone was so critical that it just wasnt funny. Still feel kinda stupid for surfing that day in those conditions

rocks and reef are something you just gotta deal with. ive been to the emergency room 2 times and have wreaked 3 boards because ofthem. hawaii only has reef breaks except waikiki.

scariest place I surfed was northern california's lost coast..

holy crap... foggier than a son of a bitch.. It was the freakiest feeling because you could barely see the water.. you had to feel the movement of the water to prepare for the break it was SO jacked up... i got up once and had a nice ride but the rest were all pretty bad wipe outs.. literally..

this is what the lost coast beaches look like during foggy times

isaluteyou wrote:

Try that for horrid paddle outs

that is my favorite place I have EVER been to for surfing. My buddy lives off Abbott and Longbranch.. literally a 1 minute walk to the beach.. and a 3 minute walk to the pier.

I love surfing between the jetty and the pier.. but a tad closer to the jetty because the A frames go ALL DAY.

LOL - in real life I've sufed probably 10 ft wave faces - in the altered reality that is this thread, I was in Big Wednesday .........

I was quite scared last week when I was surfing in front of Sara's board and beneath Phils...

I tell you another place - Perranporth at Low tied, the waves in the morning came be flat and by late evening can be 7 ft, its amazing altohugh the rips are legendary at the place. The wave just breaks on virtual sand at one point

puttsborough scared me a fair bit at th summer meet. far too big and windy for me really. sat out the back looking petrified until i was too cold and had to try and get back in.

surferdude_scarborough wrote:puttsborough scared me a fair bit at th summer meet. far too big and windy for me really. sat out the back looking petrified until i was too cold and had to try and get back in.

While I sat in the van having a cup of tea during that session