Surfing Waves

hi
i am currently at the level were my surfing is getting good in any conditions (i tell a lie) because anything 3 ft plus i struggle in is this just because im a pussy or something else
cheers dan

that depends how long have you been surfing. and dont be afraid of waves. its just water it cant hurt you. what can hurt you is a reef,rocks, anything that is on the bottom but most spots or sandy bottoms so there is nothing to be worried about. just remind yourself that is is just water. and if you do get worked on a bigger wave (meaning anything above 7ft) then just relax. i have found that going against the power of the wave will just make it harder on you and scare you more when you get get away from the thing. you can hold your breathe longer by relaxing underwater.

to get lung capacity larger swim laps in your pool (if you have one, if you dont go to a friend who has one or go to a local lap pool). on every 4th stroke take a breath. once you become comfortable with this take a breath on every 5th stroke and so on. i know people that can hold their breath for 5 mins. its crazy. but dont be worried about little 3 footers.

When you say you struggle... what do you mean... Struggle to ride struggle to get out?

always push the limits..the more you are out in big surf the more you feel comfortable...i always have nerves in big waves..as soon as i catch my first wave im fine