Latest Surfs...

[Hang11]

Here's today's report - swell's building too, and tomorrow is a public holiday

I'm peeking with excitement, just trying to get out of work so I can jump in the truck and get there

Kaikoura, Mangamanu and Meatworks
Tuesday 24 April 2007

The pulse of southeast swell arrived yesterday its stacked this AM with long wrapping southeast lines of a good 4 ft hitting all spots. Its liquid calm sunny n glassy so a Primo surf day. Winds could shift south / southwest late arvo so offshore thru the points that Pump on this swell angle.
Stoke ::: 9 / 10 :::

[PapaW]

Chanced Spot M after work today... greated by a slightly setty but great fun 2-3ft hollow as ever. Good fun w00p! Sand in every orrifise... oh yeah!

[bluesnowcone]

WOOOOOO, yesterday i had the first surf session iv had in about a month, it was only about a 1ft and it lacked some power but it was ok, but about half an hour before i had to get out it cleaned up and the sets were alot more regular, at was a great session

[Adrenaline Fueled]

So, I'd been keeping an eye on the swell forecast, and was gagging for some action.... of the surf variety, obviously! Anyway, the only possibility seemed to be a wednesday dawny. So, after having spent a while convincing my mate that it'd be worth it, we set out to a nearby break at 5.30am...

All the way down, the sea looked flat. I was really disappointed, and as we passed a spot that usually works whenever there's a hint of swell, I asked whether we should just turn around now and get some sleep before our respective days of work/torture began. "nah, carry on a bit," he replied, "there's a spot that still might be working..."

And so, we pulled up at a spot I'd never surfed before, halfway up the welsh coast. It didn't look particularly big, but there was definitely a wave, probably 1ft at the back. Well, we'd gone too far to back down now, so we suited up and headed out. Hehehe, it was the first time I've made it out with a dry head. What was even more... interesting, was how shallow it was! I probably could have stood up in the line up off the ground
and as we got out.... it went flat. We couldn't believe it, but that lil wave had disappeared completely....

Just as we were about to give up though, it came back! And boy did we have fun!! It grew to... just over waist height? But the shape was perfect, and the waves were peeling wonderfully. It was funny, but compared to freshwater west the week before, when the waves were head high, these were a lot easier to catch. Ended up having a great sesh.

After about an hour, as we had to get out and face our days responsibilities, the wind picked up and blew it to peices, just as another surfer turned up. "ahhhh, sorry bro, you should've been here an hour ago..."

All in all, a fun little sesion, that proved size isn't everything (hooray!).

[PapaW]

Super ace sesh at big Leven Lastnight pusing 6ft heavy bombs at the harbour.. lots of poundings and lots of speed ... really good fun withthe regular crew

Hittng it agan tonight and it'll going to be super glasssssssyyyy

[PapaW]

Yep it was clean and hollow tho alot smaller than expected... only round 2ft on the sets. Ah well

[drowningbitbybit]

Small, with odd medium set, but awesomely clean for the whole day yesterday

Had a fantastic time, and caught some fantastic waves.

I even took the new Harmergeddon Pinkie out, despite the fact the waves were completely wrong for it, and caught a couple of the bigger sets and ripped

[PapaW]

Just got back from meeting up with Thaya and Essexsucks... we had a sesh at peren on the push... was stupidly phat but everyone else liked it it seems!

Then got well wasted that night... 4 hours sleep then up and onto Gwithan and me and mark hit it for 5 hours... impreved greatly at high tide with th sets hollowing out and rampy. Ideal

[chris fixxy]

Small, with odd medium set, but awesomely clean for the whole day yesterday

Had a fantastic time, and caught some fantastic waves.

I even took the new Harmergeddon Pinkie out, despite the fact the waves were completely wrong for it, and caught a couple of the bigger sets and ripped

yeah it was wicked.

perfect day on saturady for a learner like me.

cheers for the surf advice dbbb.

top weekend.

oh and just to confirm to board is pink, but not in a bad way.

[drowningbitbybit]

oh and just to confirm to board is pink, but not in a bad way.

[kitesurfer]

*detours to opticians whilst on his way to travel agent to get his eyes checked*

KS

[Phil]

first day not surfing in over a week, need the break to let my arms recover.

got to try out a few surf techs on saturday really liked a few of them so now seeing as CR is now off the cards im going to go blow some of my loan on a new surfboard

[drowningbitbybit]

so now seeing as CR is now off the cards im going to go blow some of my loan on a new surfboard

What happened to CR?

[chris fixxy]

oh and just to confirm to board is pink, but not in a bad way.

'hmmm, well its not a bic'

Quote of the weekend by a little by looking at drowningbitbybits harmageddon board.

[Phil]

so now seeing as CR is now off the cards im going to go blow some of my loan on a new surfboard

What happened to CR?

turned out alot more expencive than first thought, i would have had to get in serious amounts of debt to go so decided to put it on hold till i finish my degree, i am going to france and morroco though instead

[essex sucks]

same as pw sweet ses on sunday not big but a good fun waves

[thaya]

I had a great weekend with PapaW and essex sucks. I discovered that it's fleshin ridiculous to try longboarding in a mini-gale. It was like lugging a dead elephant around. I'm surprised I didn't accidently kill myself. Still had fun though and caught some great waves.

Also discovered that even when you're half a mile down the beach, no where near anyone or any lifeguards that they will still come rushing along in their truck, park right up infront of you and humiliate you like you've never experienced before. This happened twice.

The first time, I'd been pounded by some big sets and drifted quite away from other surfers but was half way down the beach and relieved that I'd found myself in a "quiet" spot with no waves. I was enjoying the break, and essex sucks had literally just come over and joined me, then the truck rushed over to announce very loudly that I was stuck in a rip current, then promptly told me to paddle at a 90degree angle. I was so embarrassed. When I tried to paddle I didn't get anywhere. Then essex sucks told me to stand up as it wasn't that deep and we both walked out!!!

The second time (after about 6 hours of surfing -all day anyhow) I actually found myself in a proper rip current that was sweeping me right towards the rocks. They came over again (still cant figure out how they saw me a good half mile away) and told me I was about to be swept on to the rocks. Well that's alot of use isn't it I managed to paddle my way out.

All in all, I wished I was back on my 7'2. I've got much more control over it (and can actually carry the damn thing!). I think I'll save my longboard for wind-free summer days with tiny little waves, and just use my 7'2 the rest of the time.

It was a good learning experience anyhow.

Got very WASTED saturday night (great fun, thanks guys) bumped into Will, but promptly forgot about him the next day, and generally behaved like a complete idiot. I had fun though!

Sunday, I chilled. Couldn't face using my longboard in that wind (suicide mission).

Monday morning, me and essex had the WHOLE bay to ourselves. Lovely little waves, nicely spaced out 1-3ft with the occasional 4ft set. Really enjoyed it!

The highlight of out 7hr drive home was a traffic jam on the M25 after an accident. I saw a really cute polish lorry driver, and smiled at him (naturally). He smiled back and started waving and grinning in a very cute way! By the way, does anyone know what SK stands for on an EU number plate. It's really bugging me. We thought maybe it was an odd spelling of Scandinavia???? by then why doesn't it say the specific country? maybe slovakia, slovenia? who knows...

here's some pics:

essex's board and mine... you can see just how big it is!


making the most of that wind, flying PapaW's kite!

[PapaW]

Lol it almost looks kite like... real shame it was broken.. still passed a hour :p

[Milo]

This made me giggle

[drowningbitbybit]

Well that's alot of use isn't it I managed to paddle my way out.

Of all people, I dont think you should be slagging the lifeguards off