Your Surf videos

[oldmansurfer]

It's interesting to see the "aqua-maniacs" starting at 4:17. It looks like they got into the habit of going prone when they made it to the trough. I figure that was how you surfed with an unleashed board. It's also probably easier to control an almost rockerless board in chunky white water if you go prone, shift your center of gravity back far enough so the nose of the board lifts up, and keep the board from pearling and in your hands. Board control was a lot more complicated in the days before the surf leash. I suppose in the days before more rockered surfboards, a surfer had to manually control the level of the board's nose with back foot pressure on the tail. If you didn't move back quick enough to lift the board's nose, you were headed for the drink.

Well if it was a big wave and you couldn't make it past the whitewater that was what you did or else it's a long swim in.

[rexi]

Iceland on my dads bush plane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiP4H2n2_vs

That day wind was forecasted and no swell so we strapped windsurfing gear underneath. That was a mistake since no wind showed up and we found some waves.. Better luck next time.

[BoMan]

The music and surfing video are inspiring!

CHARMAS - Jumping Jack O'Neill's (In Memory of Wetsuit Pioneer Jack O'Neill)

[oldmansurfer]

Jamie Obrien gets injured when he isn't goofing around

[enichavi]

You know, you guys are really morbid. No offence, but it's so scary! I bet you're never afraid.

[oldmansurfer]

Welcome to the surfing waves forum enichavi

[oldmansurfer]

It’s not about having no fear it’s what you do with the fear

[oldmansurfer]

Hanalei on an uncrowded day. I think it's an add for a resort

[Naeco78]

HISTORICAL Hurricane TEDDY Swell | BIGGEST EAST COAST in Years

Skip to 8:15 for first session..

[kookadelic]

made this video about pipe!!

[Naeco78]

Soul arching a twin fin in Nias. Good stuff

[BaNZ]

This is my most recent surf. I'm never in the right spot to catch it. Either too deep or too far down the shoulder. Overall, it was a good fun day after a hiatus.

[BoMan]

After a hiatus it's hard to hunt the waves. Your paddle strength will return!

[Naeco78]

Hey Banz nice surf i wish we had that here. Looks like fun. Just friendly tips if it would be helpful.. I noticed the 2nd wave it seemed like there were some boils from shallow spots that made the wave section off, just in front of you. Depending on the swell direction, you could probably sit just on the opposite side of the boil so you're almost in the pocket (or farther out on the shoulder) during most of the takeoffs. I like to find landmarks on the shoreline that I can line up with the consistent shallow spots like that.. and then try to use it as my takeoff spot.
Wasn't sure if that was happening often.. but just thought it might be worth mentioning.

[IanCaio]

Hey Banz, that looks like a fun spot!

I think you were almost in the wave on the first one, but I think the "double arm" paddle did more harm then good. I'm under the impression you lost momentum when you used both arms, maybe if you kept paddling normally but slightly harder and put you chin down (your head seems to be pointing up) you'd have gotten in, it was a really close one.

It's a bummer when the wave doesn't close out but also keeps you that tiny bit behind the pocket, it's like it's making you watch what you're missing
Not sure there was much you could do, foam was a bit big to try a foam climb. Think your best shot would be getting as close to the foam on the midface as possible to get a little more speed for that end section.

[BaNZ]

To the right of the photo where the other surfer was paddling. This is a point break where all the shortboards gathers. I don't dare to get too close because it requires a little more skills to takeoff as it becomes steep.

The spot where I took off does not always break. It will only break when the bigger sets comes in. My dilemma is that where I take off is usually where the shortboards are paddling out to the point break on the right. On small days, it's okay but on bigger days I'm worried about wiping out and running them over. It's a very weird break that longboarders usually doesn't go. However I don't go to the longboard breaks anymore because it is too crowded and they are all amazing at catch waves.

There are about a dozen boils around the line up. The boils does scare me a little as my imagination keeps telling me that the water will get sucked out the reef and exposes it. It never does unless you're surfing the shorebreaks. I've tried sitting on or very close to the boils. It's scary because you don't need to paddle but once it picks you up, there is no turning back. It's like going down the slide, you need to popup and gain control or else you will wipe out. I tend not to like it because if there's another surfer catching it far to the right, then I can't really pull out the wave easily.

[BaNZ]

Hey Banz, that looks like a fun spot!

I think you were almost in the wave on the first one, but I think the "double arm" paddle did more harm then good. I'm under the impression you lost momentum when you used both arms, maybe if you kept paddling normally but slightly harder and put you chin down (your head seems to be pointing up) you'd have gotten in, it was a really close one.

It's a bummer when the wave doesn't close out but also keeps you that tiny bit behind the pocket, it's like it's making you watch what you're missing
Not sure there was much you could do, foam was a bit big to try a foam climb. Think your best shot would be getting as close to the foam on the midface as possible to get a little more speed for that end section.

Interesting that using both arms to paddle isn't a thing. I've seen quite a few other surfers that do it when they need a bit extra paddle to catch the wave hence why I started doing it.

I'm thinking if I was able to catch the wave a little earlier on the second one with better paddle, it's possible to make it pass the faster section?

Still recovering from the 3 weeks injury and I'm still in some pain when I surf. I'm just picking the smaller days to surf and help me recover faster. There isn't many people in the water because it isn't that good and the stay home orders have been lifted. It's kinda crazy that waves like the one that I posted is just considered average here.

I was there the other day where it's just me and another guy on the point break. Previously there would be at least 20-30 surfers.

[oldmansurfer]

I think it looks possible to make it past that fast section. Keys are quicker down the wave quicker to turn at the bottom and make projection bottom turn where you are unweighting down the line.

[Naeco78]

boils.JPG

To the right of the photo where the other surfer was paddling. This is a point break where all the shortboards gathers. I don't dare to get too close because it requires a little more skills to takeoff as it becomes steep.

The spot where I took off does not always break. It will only break when the bigger sets comes in. My dilemma is that where I take off is usually where the shortboards are paddling out to the point break on the right. On small days, it's okay but on bigger days I'm worried about wiping out and running them over. It's a very weird break that longboarders usually doesn't go. However I don't go to the longboard breaks anymore because it is too crowded and they are all amazing at catch waves.

There are about a dozen boils around the line up. The boils does scare me a little as my imagination keeps telling me that the water will get sucked out the reef and exposes it. It never does unless you're surfing the shorebreaks. I've tried sitting on or very close to the boils. It's scary because you don't need to paddle but once it picks you up, there is no turning back. It's like going down the slide, you need to popup and gain control or else you will wipe out. I tend not to like it because if there's another surfer catching it far to the right, then I can't really pull out the wave easily.

Thanks for explaining that BaNZ.. it makes a lot more sense to me now.. about it being a point break. It also explains why that first wave stood up and then backed off like that. Yeah that's a tricky setup. The short boarders are probably making it past that shallow section because they already have some speed an momentum from further up the point.. so they can do a floater or foam climb over the white water section. But you're just starting your bottom turn as the lip starts breaking.. so that makes it a lot more difficult.

You might need to find a way to drop into the wave earlier.. maybe using a big log or faster board that can catch unbroken waves. Or maybe when you're feeling better.. start paddling earlier and try to match the speed of the wave (and drop in) when it stands up over the shallow spots, before it breaks. But that's much easier said than done. But in general I usually try to start paddling earlier and build up more momentum before dropping in. At first glance, it looked like you might be paddling a little later than usual. I would consider that somewhat of a late takeoff.. when the wave almost reaches you before paddling. But I surf mostly beach breaks.. so point breaks might be a little different.

[BaNZ]

Decided to try the smelly rivermouth today and it was pretty awesome! It was crowded in the lineup so I took a few wave and head home. For once, I was finally in the right spot to take off.