Probably giving up surfing

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

some people smile on the inside cheezee.

[Stone Fox]

Good point Hawaii.

Hands up those who thought they'd never read those words!

Just jessin' with ya bruv.

Thing is Hawaii, living where you do I was so suprised to read you getting the arse over the "there are people who surf, and there are surfers" thing- I think that I understand exactly what he meant, and I did so instantly. No offence but from JUST your comments in this thread I'd put you as the former, not the latter.

Cheeze got the point as well, but I think I can simplify it:

For some people surfing is something to do. For some it's a reason to be.

I REALLY suck at surfing, I hear le grande fromage moaning about his lack of ability, but really, this is one pissing contest I think i'd win! But I f**king love trying. I love spending the time in the ocean, I LOVE waking up to the sound of the surf breaking and i WILL learn some skills even if it takes the entire rest of my life. I think that makes me a surfer, rather than someone who surfs.

[CheeZee]

yep yep ..

I love spending the time in the ocean, I LOVE waking up to the sound of the surf breaking and i WILL learn some skills even if it takes the entire rest of my life. I think that makes me a surfer, rather than someone who surfs.

and Hawaii' ..

some people smile on the inside cheezee.

... mos'def' .. but being in the water should draw that smile to the outside bro

[Stone Fox]

mos'def' .. but being in the water should draw that smile to the outside bro

Love it.

[sal]

Hey JoJo, can't believe I missed this one (but then I've been too busy actually working at work recently to find time for the forum and tinterweb!)

Don't give up! I know you've already said you're only selling the shortboard for funds, but I wanted my 2p-worth!

I'd say personally, I'm somewhere in between being a person who surfs, and a surfer! I love surfing (or more to the point falling off, and getting back on again, repeat...!) and being in the water, and the peace of it all, but I don't get to surf nearly often enough to be a surfer (I haven't surfed since Morocco, in March, now )

But Jo....if showjumping's your thing, then go for it!

[Stone Fox]

but I don't get to surf nearly often enough to be a surfer (I haven't surfed since Morocco, in March, now )

A pilot sat in a park is still a pilot. (airplane humour not included)

[drowningbitbybit]

A pilot sat in a park is still a pilot.

Or a destitute alcoholic - depends how the pilot's career ended...

[Hang11]

There are people who surf, and then there are surfers.

Hmmm. I read that a bit differently, but it's early morning so the brain isn't going yet.

Surfers - blonde wigs, surf brand T-Shirts, all the talk, surfie car, surfie friends, living the lifestyle and image, and sometimes, not that great at surfing.

People who surf - people that just like to get some waves, stoked on the purity of the act of surfing, not all the commercial BS that goes on around it, don't have that surfie image, not necessarily great surfers either, but definitely in tune with what it's really about.

Is that what you meant Otter? Or am I being a numpty? Because if it is what you meant, than I agree with you.

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

i really do love being out on the water but when there is no surf there are better things to do. there is much more to life than surfing. i am a person, not a surfer. surfing is just something to do, and all together with the rest of the pieces of my life, surfing is just a part of my "reason to be".

stonefox, if you really love it that much then move to hawaii or someplace like it. believe me, you do get jaded. if you go out here when its flat-1 or 2ft, theres hardly anyone. its not even woth the risk of damaging your board on the reef

no offence to you stonefox or anyone else on here who likes to define themselves as a 'surfer' but that seems superficial and poser like.

hang11 is right on the mark with the whole difference between people who surf and people who need to have some sort of label to feel above everyone else.

[Otter]

Stone Fox,

Surfers - blonde wigs, surf brand T-Shirts, all the talk, surfie car, surfie friends, living the lifestyle and image, and sometimes, not that great at surfing.

People who surf - people that just like to get some waves, stoked on the purity of the act of surfing, not all the commercial BS that goes on around it, don't have that surfie image, not necessarily great surfers either, but definitely in tune with what it's really about.

OK, any freak who'd wear a blonde wig, should be avoided, whether it's a true wig or a dye job. Surf brand T shirts, no prob, the talk? Like calling a surf pal Brah? No prob. Surfie car? Wuz that, got racks? Surfie friends, who else would a surfer hang out with? Living the lifestyle, no prob. Image? Dunno. Not that great at surfing? OK.

My def of a SURFER; An individual who has a certain communion with the ocean. An indefinable, spiritual, physical and personal relationship with the ocean and their surfboard. A SURFER will go to great lengths to be able to perform his/her art, and perfect their lives (J. Morrison). A SURFER will expend great amounts of time, energy and treasure to be able to exercise their abilities to surf. A SURFER does not attempt to fit into a stereotype, but is molded into certain conditions by their love of SURFING.

People who SURF; An individual who felt that surfing would be "fun" and that they would like to try it. An individual who may or may not own a surfboard, or may own a dozen but rarely uses any of them. A person who hangs out at the beach but rarely goes in the water. A person who may or may not wear surf T shirt, surf label clothes or may dye their hair or wear a wig to fit into their pre conceived notion of what a surfer should look like. A person who surfs on occassion, but has no real passion for it.

The true definition of a SURFER is a person who has a passion that must be exercised. The call of the wave is to strong, cannot be avoided, will not be avoided. It's like needing a fix of heroin or crack. It's something a SURFER must do.

A person who surfs can take it or leave it.

Being a SURFER has nothing to do with skill level. It's all about the desire. If the desire is there, the skill will follow.

[Stone Fox]

*edit*

Whoops.

I read otters post above, got as far as the first three sentences where it sounded like he was saying that 'surfers' are the fakers type thing and had a rant at him.

Having re-read his post in detail, it would appear everyone is actually agreeing with each other, without realising it.

*rant removed*

[Surfing-Innovation]

As with any other popular (increasingly) hobby/sport/lifestyle, you will always get more wannabees than anything, or those for who the novelty wears off within a couple of years....or those who just congregate near the 'popular' breaks for two weeks a year in summer.

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

ok otter, so what is your definition of me?

ive been shortboarding for 5 years (since getting my licence) and boogieboarded since i was 7 years old. i used to go out a lot while i was still learning (first 2-3 years) but now with work and school and a dog and a woman friend i only go out when the waves are large. it its big i go every day. but if i dont get to go out when the waves are large, i get depressed. i dont associate my friends, clothing style, or anything else with surfing. ive spent over 2,000 US dollars on surfing, and have owned 7 boards. (2 guns, 1 fish, 4 shortboards) considering i only make about 4,000-5,000 a year, thats a lot to spend on a hobby.

i also go to the beach a lot and dont go in the water. i sit and watch my dog eat sand. wow, i must be a poser. those 2 inch waves are just too intimidating. but like i said before, so is that chunk of reef sticking out that threatens to damage my board.

now if i decide to leave the little island of which ive spent my entire life on for lets say, colorado to become a snowboarding bum for a few years, would that make me a fake?

[drowningbitbybit]

Shhh, calm down kids, its not worth having a row about....

Apart from the fact some people read it one way, and some people read it another, I think everyone more or less knows where everyone else is coming from. I think everyone agrees there's the posey twats, and then people who surf/surfers (whichever way round you think of it).

let's not argue about the philosophy of it - people's situations on here are very different (Hawaii Vs Slough is a good example...) so of course we'll have a different viewpoint.

At the moment I live miles from the sea, dont surf nearly as much as I'd like, have a surf vehicle, spend more time looking at charts than I do in the water... Is that a poser/surfer/person who surfs? Forunately, I dont care - Im never going to be another kelly slater, but Im happy in the water.

Above all, I think everyone here is 'A Surfer'. You're on a surfing forum discussing surfing for heavens sake - surely that says something about people's 'passion'?






And, incidentally,

i also go to the beach a lot and dont go in the water. i sit and watch my dog eat sand.

...made me burst out laughing and spit chunks of semi-masticated carrot all over my keyboard

[Stone Fox]

Shhh, calm down kids, its not worth having a row about....

sorry sir.



I do like a good row though sometimes...

What I was getting at, without getting stroppy. (Sorry Otter) is that as Surfing inovation so rightly put it, there are people who turn up in Devon / Cornwall for about a week or two a year.

And then there are people who surf when the weather is like this:



(Taken from PapaW's excellent '5 years surfing north sheepland' video)

and this:



Which I took myself, sometime in Febuary I think if I remember rightly.

I wasn't taking about fakers, or lifestyle, I was simply talking about how much people care about their sport. I do have other hobbies and Interests, but yeah, I'd probably move to Hawaii or Australia if I got the chance.

One last thing, it's a good thing I don't live in the states, if I saw someone driving a silly car, wearing a blonde wig and talking like a surfing cliche I'd be forced to point at him and laugh till my sides split!

[northswell]

I'm kind of with Otter on this.

A surfer, however far they lived from the sea would get on it at every available opportunity. I've not missed an East Coast swell for years, i might not surf every day of it but i always get on it. Dawn Dusk whenever.

Some one who surfs is someone that might surf when there is a swell but say only when there are lifeguards telling them its safe to do so, only surf when they have got up had breakfast, fed the dog blah blah blah. Who do not put everything on hold to surf.

[northswell]

Stone Fox i don't think i'd have made the trip for that.

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

drowning you said what i was trying to say just more nicely.

my dog poops it too, i just sit there laughing. he digs a hole, sticks his head in and comes out with his nose and mouth full of sand. he tries to get it out by swallowing it and pawing at it. also he thinks he can outrun breaking shorebreak waves. its much funner than surfing when its flat. atleast to me, but i live in hawaii and im jaded.

stonefox- i dont think it would be that hard regarding passports and such, but if you dont like america/cans, honolulu is like a mini LA with lots of asians. the other islands are more rural but expensive too.

[Stone Fox]

Stone Fox i don't think i'd have made the trip for that.

The second photo? It was better than it looked, that's from a carpark WAY above the water level! Like, up a whacking great cliff. I got some quality fun that weekend.

(and as for the trip, it took me 3 hrs to get there!)

[Otter]

ok otter, so what is your definition of me?

It's not so much how I define, it's how we define ourselves. I feel privileged to be able to surf pretty much anytime I like (barring work, wives, kids responsibilities, etc.). I've presented my definition of what I consider to be a true surfer, someone who has done alot of what you have done, someone who does alot of the things you do. If you wish to consider yourself a true surfer, that is totally cool with me. If you want to consider yourself a person who surfs, more power to ya!

I wasn't trying to be beligerant or anything, it's just that to me there is a difference between a surfer and a person who surfs. Others will see it other ways and I truly don't have a problem with that. All I really, truly want to do, is share my stoke with the world. I'd love to have everybody in the world be able to surf, and if there were enough waves for everyone to go around, I truly believe the world would be a much, much better place. Surfing is for me, an end all, be all. If I could eat, sleep, surf, maybe get it on once in awhile, I'd be perfectly happy. As it is, the world I live in requires me to work and do things other than surfing. Childlike? Perhaps, but I've been an adult long enough to know that it ain't all that it was cracked up to be. Give me a life on the beach anyday.