Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

I went out today in waist high surf. The conditions were nice and there was a bunch of surfers out so I spent my time on the side of the good break (sand) trying to pick off a good wave. The waves were a little too fast for me but I was working on it trying to figure out where to be on which waves to take off and what to do after taking off. I was in position for one really nice looking wave but my hand slipped on the popup and I still would have been okay but my foot slipped after I popped up and after correcting for those two errors I was too far behind to do anything. I figure it slowed me down about a second between the two errors but that was enough to ruin the wave. I think my problem relate to going frontside after not surfing much frontside for a long time and then taking off the last weekend due to work and my wife having shoulder surgery. That and I am getting older and slowing down a bit. If I had 3 weekends in a row with those kind of waves i probably could do much better. I came in and another oldtimer was going out he said "Getting wet?" I smiled and said "yep!" It was good to get wet. Probably my best wave was a set and maybe head high and i made a hard bottom turn and tried to do a floater but ended up just cutting out because the timing was off.

[oldmansurfer]

Finally between work and taking care of my wife post op and the dog which she cannot take care of and weather I finally got out. There has been a sandbar forming in the middle of the bay where i surf but it has been crowded due to good waves and there have been some nice looking rights which I really want because I am out of practice surfing rights (frontside) unfortunately there were rights but not really nice waves. I caught a few waves nothing too great but even though I wanted to work on my rights I was in the right place for a left that came through really didn't expect it but it looked like a better choice to go left on a maybe about shoulder to waist high wave and managed a solid bottom turn to snap off the top so apparently I can still surf backside. Last wave I caught (right) was okay I guess as I did a bottom turn then a series of top to bottom speed turns on a waist high wave. One of these days I'm gong to catch some nice rights

[BoMan]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BmS-ouwdtYNRKccllsyDZqPnwjatPBWo/view?usp=sharing

The beaches are closed and this was the best option.

After much begging and horse trading my wife agreed to shoot the video. Before we could start, she had to move the car because a neighbor gave her the "stink eye" for parking in front of his house and making the dog bark. I hope you like it 'cause I'm in DEEP doo doo.

[dtc]

You seem pretty comfortable on the board, do that on a wave and you will be looking great!

[oldmansurfer]

Went out today In around shoulder to head high waves. Once again was not in the right place at the right time doing the right thing but it was good to get wet and I exercised quite a bit. Caught maybe 3 waves that weren’t much but was in the right place at the right time for a couple waves and didn’t do the right thing. Still happy to get out

[olasingular]

Hola Surfing Familia,

I love seeing the stoke you all bring to this page. I am very new to the forum but I wanted to ask support from my fellow surfing communities.

I am starting a surf and travel media company. I would appreciate it if you check out my website and give any feedback about what you want to see or do differently. (I can use both English and Japanese)

Much love! And happy wave riding brothas and sistas

olasingular.com

-Max

[oldmansurfer]

Yes I am still surfing. I went out 2 weeks ago and not the week before I think. I wanted to get some rights but ended up catching a bunch of very short rides. Probably should have gone to the reef break left but I wanted to go right. Today I went out to the sandbar by the river mouth and there were some fun knee high rights. YAY! Nothing too spectacular but fun little waves. My best wave I popped up and bottom turned them immediately ran out on the nose to get going down the line , I got some speed and moved back and made some small turns trying to get into the best position and could see it was going to wall up and tube in front of me I tried to get to where I could get covered up but failed however it didn't knock me off and I got ahead again in time to make a floater on the closeout end very small floater in very shallow water. Anyway it was fun waves So I thought I would share. Hope you all enjoyed your Memorial day or whatever day where ever you are.

[oldmansurfer]

I forgot to say there were a couple other groups of surfers at different breaks from me. I walked out on a long sandbar maybe 75 yards or so right up to the break and surfed by myself so no problem social distancing

[oldmansurfer]

So I went out last weekend trying to get some rights but there were no noteworthy waves. This weekend it was a little bigger about head high to shoulder high so maybe 2 to 3 feet Hawaiian anyway I did catch a wave that I managed to get a decent top turn on. It was okay, not really solid but okay kind of mediocre off the lip/top turn .....hey but I'll take it! Nice to get to work on my frontside surfing a little. I bailed on a wave that I probably could have made but was unsure about the late drop situation. Most likely backside I would have gone without a thought but I haven't surfed frontside waves with steep drop and long wall in a while I chickened out. So on my last wave which was going to be my wave in I was in a similar position and went for it and made it. The tip of the nose was flush with the wave at the bottom but I have a boat nose board with a pronounced V in the nose and I hear that makes those kind of drops easier by cutting through the water instead of pushing back against the water. There were waves at Horner's (probably double overhead or 6 foot Hawaiian) which is a left break and a far paddle but I really wanted to work on my frontside surfing also my aerobic conditioning sucks. I have been exercising with my wife and she is recovering from a shoulder surgery and can't handle the hill we used to hike up so I have gotten somewhat into poorer shape aerobically speaking. My shoulder is okay and not a limiting factor in these waves.. All by myself again but there was a kite foil guy headed out when I came in. I may have shared the break with a shark or two but wasn't really sure as I just saw flashes of long shark sized objects in the water which could have been submerged logs but I also heard something that sounded like that sound a shark fin makes when it breaks the water at a high speed. It was right before I went in and made me decide to go in at my usually 30 minute session instead of staying for a few more that i might have done.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out yesterday and no good waves but fun and good exercise. The waves were waist to head high and a kind of double wave with the first part crumbling then a wall on the second part with a huge ridge between them. There was also a sideways back wash coming through plus regular backwash. I fell a few time due to chops/backwash. The two most spectacular was one I took off on a waves and had trouble getting into it and it crumbled below me but I still popped up and rode down the whitewater to the bottom and made a strong bottom turn that had got me back in front of the breaking portion of the wave and was about to transition to going up the face for a top turn and hit a chop which caused me to face plant in the water. Probably looked bad but minor pounding. The other was even more comical as I dropped straight down with the idea to not get too far ahead of the wave but hit a chop at the bottom before I was able to start the turn and the board went straight in and me off the back. It probably looked worse than it was, minor pounding. I did get to practice my duck dips which I haven't had much practice with lately. Got caught inside and the set wave broke entirely before getting to me so I had a 5 or 6 foot foam wall coming at me in flat water. I ducked under as best I could and took a pounding but still held on to the board although it turned sideways but was able to get it pointed back out and got a little further out for the next wave which had broken only half way down and I was able to go through the unbroken bottom part of the wave. That was perfect however due to me not hiking up the hill I used to I am out of shape if I had to do a third wave I am sure I would be completely winded. Social distancing maintained as there wasn't any other surfers out.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out last week and got a lot of exercise in small waves with no substantial maneuvers on the waves. This weekend I went out and it was really nice conditions, sunny, crystal clean water although it had rained earlier but the swell could have been better between shoulder and waist high waves and there was a north sweeping current so I had to paddle south if I didn't catch a wave immediately. My first wave I was slightly out of position and didn't make it down the face in time to do any maneuvers and ended up stuck in the pocket. The second wave was my best wave and I managed to be at the peak in these small gutless waves got down the face in time to bottom turn around the collapsing section and did a carving turn off the top of a small gutless wall. Good exercise for my paddling muscles and good ocean therapy session.

[oldmansurfer]

I was out the last two weekends, both times the conditions were difficult, last weekend about waist to head high and this weekend head to slightly overhead. Last weekend the waves to catch were the ones with long walls because they would break fast with sections and were makeable. The shorter walled waves were just a cruise into the beach. This weekend the waves to catch were those with a shorter wall because the long wall waves were going to closeout. I had a chance to do a floater but timing was slightly off and I ended up standing on the back of the wave not able to get back down the face. Still it was good to have a chance to do one.

[oldmansurfer]

Well I got out today and surfed the sandbar in the middle of the bay. There were three spots that had waves that looked rideable noticed by me before I paddled out. The first spot broke with a swell from another direction which was less frequent so I went to the second spot and I was able to catch a bunch of waves there so I stayed there. No great rides but it was a good workout for me after not surfing the last 2 weekends. Sunshine,clean water and waves that had a little bit of a wall. Reading the waves was relatively easy today. In addition you could just look at the swell coming in and figure out how far inside or out you were and what position you were in compared to where you should be. The swells were regular and while many were double swells they were consistent in form so the peak was where it was on every wave.

[Simcha]

I am at a spot I don't usually surf, at the waters edge waxing up,
there is anouther guy up the beach,puts his board down and starts walking toward me, 6'5"
Skinhead, tribal tats, I say to myself ok here we go.
The guy says " you put the wax on the top ?"
(Skiers wax the bottom of their skis)
Funny huh ?

[oldmansurfer]

I went out to day and the waves were fun but it was crowded (there were 6 guys and a girl out where I went out) At first I was going to sit inside and poach waves off the others since there were lots of waves coming through unridden that were smaller. Then all the guys outside were in because they caught a wave so I went out and was unable to catch a wave. I'm not used to surfing with others so it was good practice for me. I decided to try to go a little over because when I was the best lined up for a wave there were surfers inside of me and it made me hesitate and miss the wave (because I might have run them over if I did catch the wave). I saw another wave breaking well over
a little from there that looked okay so went there because I hadn't been able to lineup a wave or paddle correctly to catch them where I was. I didn't catch any over there so I went back to my second spot to the side of all the surfers and lined up a wave. It was head high and had a nice steep face and I got a good bottom turn which makes me feel good because I haven't surfed frontside waves that size in a while (head high or so). From the bottom turn I just pulled up to the pocket and did a midface turn and got a little lip tap on the shoulder but that was it as the wave raced off so all I did was a speed turn or two and try to get around the whitewater unsuccessfully. Then I went back to the inside. I caught a little wave (waist high) and did a bottom turn to speed turn and then jammed a hard turn off the top. It's the only turn I have made in recent times where I saw the spray from the turn. I love my 8 foot fungun. I caught one more wave on the inside flubbed it .....well rode it in but that was it because I was slightly off balance at the beginning.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out this weekend in small sloppy surf. I caught a bunch of waves but on every wave was nose riding to keep on the wave after the bottom turn. Great exercise, got winded for much of the time I was out a sad statement about my current conditioning but I needed it. Happy to get out.

[BoMan]

I look forward to your posts and need the inspiration. There are too many obstacles in my area right now.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out today and even though the waves weren't too good there were some other surfers out. There was a guy teaching his son how to surf and a guy with an old funky midrange board probably around 8 foot and me on my 8 foot funboard ( and huge log floating to the side of the lineup). I guess my best wave was my first because I completed a nice cutback on it. The rest amounted to bottom turn practice which I need frontside so it was all good. Some good head high sets coming in but i wasn't able to line them up well enough because they were infrequent. All in all a good outing for me.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out today the last day of a three day weekend having to work the other two days. There was one other guy out and he was mostly teaching his girlfriend or wife to surf. Saw them there the last weekend too.. I caught a few waves and managed to do a floater/foam climb/whatever you want to call it. The shoulder high wave was breaking and about a third of the way down from the top when I hit it. I hit it and went up onto the back of the wave and down a closeout maneuver. It was good to get out.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out today in at the biggest waist high waves. I caught a bunch but nothing spectacular. Of note I did do a foam climb from a position more forward on the board however it was only knee high whitewater. It reminded me of a trick I used to do long ago where I turned up onto a whitewater section and sideslipped back down however I didn't do that. Oh well got to practice many different aspects of surfing except for surfing in a crowd as I was all by myself. Should keep me good to go for when there are some waves.