Latest Surfs...

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby BoMan » Fri Feb 08, 2019 6:40 am

Photos from my last trip.
https://sites.google.com/view/chrismalmgren/bolinas-2719

I had a tough time with swells coming from different directions. While paddling out the nose plowed into chop. While angling my takeoff the nose plowed into chop, and when I bottom turned .... same result. The only thing I could do was be extremely patient and wait for the swells to line up. It took so long between rides that I froze and had to paddle out early. That said...the worst day surfing beats going to work! :lol:
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby ConcreteVitamin » Fri Feb 08, 2019 8:34 am

BoMan wrote:Photos from my last trip.
https://sites.google.com/view/chrismalmgren/bolinas-2719

I had a tough time with swells coming from different directions. While paddling out the nose plowed into chop. While angling my takeoff the nose plowed into chop, and when I bottom turned .... same result. The only thing I could do was be extremely patient and wait for the swells to line up. It took so long between rides that I froze and had to paddle out early. That said...the worst day surfing beats going to work! :lol:


I actually had a good day today at Linda Mar! Waves were clean, lined up, shoulder high.

I wondered what “My Surf Shack” was. Last time I visited there I thought its a storage place.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby BoMan » Fri Feb 08, 2019 4:57 pm

Could be... It was full to bursting with boards.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby dtc » Sat Feb 09, 2019 12:34 am

Very cool; it’s interesting how the ‘surf culture’ is more public - in most of Australia you don’t see surf board displays or places called ‘surf shack’. Although maybe it’s just that region
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby RinkyDink » Fri Feb 15, 2019 2:37 am

ConcreteVitamin wrote:
BoMan wrote:Photos from my last trip.
https://sites.google.com/view/chrismalmgren/bolinas-2719

I had a tough time with swells coming from different directions. While paddling out the nose plowed into chop. While angling my takeoff the nose plowed into chop, and when I bottom turned .... same result. The only thing I could do was be extremely patient and wait for the swells to line up. It took so long between rides that I froze and had to paddle out early. That said...the worst day surfing beats going to work! :lol:


I actually had a good day today at Linda Mar! Waves were clean, lined up, shoulder high.

I wondered what “My Surf Shack” was. Last time I visited there I thought its a storage place.

What do you think of Linda Mar as a surf spot in general? Is it a good spot for beginners in the Bay Area or would you recommend another spot?
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby surferbee » Fri Feb 15, 2019 3:16 am

RinkyDink wrote:What do you think of Linda Mar as a surf spot in general? Is it a good spot for beginners in the Bay Area or would you recommend another spot?


LOTS of Bay Area beginners surf Linda Mar. It can be good for beginners because it's relatively sheltered and the degree of difficulty and wave size can vary south to north. But, it can also be really cruel to beginners because it's a beach break with lots of closeouts, outside sets, and variable conditions.

A better beginner spot is Cowell's in Santa Cruz, but it's often too far for Bay Area folks to surf on the regular. Other beginner spots are Half Moon Bay and Bolinas but they're also a little further out of the vicinity. So yeah, Linda Mar is kinda the go-to for Bay Area learners.

And every so often it actually produces some decent waves. It's worth a look some days. If you're worried about a new scene, just be sure to bring a wavestorm and a helmet - you'll fit right in! :lol:
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby RinkyDink » Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:07 am

surferbee wrote:
RinkyDink wrote:And every so often it actually produces some decent waves. It's worth a look some days. If you're worried about a new scene, just be sure to bring a wavestorm and a helmet - you'll fit right in! :lol:

Yeah, I've always recommended it for beginners in SF. I guess a beginner could try Rockaway too, but I haven't stopped and checked that spot out in years. I just always assumed that Linda Mar would be a better choice. Anyway, thanks for the confirmation. Others have criticized it, and it definitely deserves some criticism, but if you're a beginner in SF, I can't think of a better spot to pull out the Wavestorm.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby surferbee » Sat Feb 16, 2019 6:28 am

Rockaway is definitely NOT a beginner spot. When it's not working it's really not working. And when it is working that wave can be pretty mean. Plus, there are some strong nearshore currents that can get beginners in trouble real quick.

If beginners stick to the south end of Linda Mar they can usually find enough to challenge them without getting themselves or others into any real danger aside from general kookiness. I've taken beginner friends out there on mellow days and they had fun. I also took one friend out there on a dumpy day and he hasn't wanted to go surfing again since. So there's that.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby RinkyDink » Sun Feb 17, 2019 12:04 am

surferbee wrote:Rockaway is definitely NOT a beginner spot. When it's not working it's really not working. And when it is working that wave can be pretty mean. Plus, there are some strong nearshore currents that can get beginners in trouble real quick.

If beginners stick to the south end of Linda Mar they can usually find enough to challenge them without getting themselves or others into any real danger aside from general kookiness. I've taken beginner friends out there on mellow days and they had fun. I also took one friend out there on a dumpy day and he hasn't wanted to go surfing again since. So there's that.

I've never surfed there. When I was in college a few of us went there on an overhead + day. We got into an argument about going out because some saw brown gnarly closeouts and others saw make-able waves. We ended up divided. The one who went for it didn't stay out long. It's kind of a small cove so I can imagine the currents can get strong (not a lot of room for outflowing water to stretch out along a shore and slow itself.) I'm glad you warned beginners off it. I guess if I lived right next to Rockaway I'd give it shot when it looked small, good, and safe. Now that I'm thinking about it, Linda Mar is about the only decent option around there. Maybe Pacifica somewhere, but I've only surfed there once and that turned into a survive the session session (also in college). Never went back :D
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby surferbee » Sun Feb 17, 2019 12:49 am

I used to go there to play with my toddler on the regular and would get to see it quite a bit. Now I'll check it out once or twice a week just to see what it's doing. Most of the time, the waves are better somewhere else. Despite the fact that it's kinda tucked away, there's often (but not always) a small crowd when it's on.

But it's a bit of a cruel mistress - much more deceptive in the water than it looks from land, and it can really hand out some beatings. I've had some great sessions there only to come back the next day and get my ass handed to me in nearly identical conditions.

The very first time I went out there, I couldn't figure out why nobody was going left. Then I caught a nice long left, got caught in the current, took multiple sets on the head, and got swept to the rocks. Lesson learned. That's not always the case there, but I've since seen others in the same predicament from time to time.

Oh, and I saw a shark out there once - not big but less than 10ft away. So yeah, maybe not for beginners :lol:
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby ConcreteVitamin » Sun Feb 17, 2019 6:34 am

RinkyDink wrote:
ConcreteVitamin wrote:
BoMan wrote:Photos from my last trip.
https://sites.google.com/view/chrismalmgren/bolinas-2719

I had a tough time with swells coming from different directions. While paddling out the nose plowed into chop. While angling my takeoff the nose plowed into chop, and when I bottom turned .... same result. The only thing I could do was be extremely patient and wait for the swells to line up. It took so long between rides that I froze and had to paddle out early. That said...the worst day surfing beats going to work! :lol:


I actually had a good day today at Linda Mar! Waves were clean, lined up, shoulder high.

I wondered what “My Surf Shack” was. Last time I visited there I thought its a storage place.

What do you think of Linda Mar as a surf spot in general? Is it a good spot for beginners in the Bay Area or would you recommend another spot?


For me who lives in the Bay Area, it's the *only* viable spot for regular surfing. This is a very practical constraint: (1) OB/Rockaway too advanced, (2) HMB a bit farther than Linda Mar, and I have no ideas when it'll be good (no surf cams or reports), (3) Bo/SC being too far away. That said, if you guys have any secret spots, I'm all ears :lol:

Accepting this location constraint for a moment, I actually have an idea or two on when it'll be clean. On normal days it has maybe 4-second rides, but then on good days it has 10+ second rides with shoulder high clean condition. So my view is that it's not bad at all for beginners!

Of course, if I can be in Santa Cruz, there are much better options :D

This summer I may try to go to OB on very small days.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby tomthetreeman » Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:28 am

Dragged my buddy from Tampa out to Cocoa Beach, he hasn’t been surfing in a year and he needed an excuse, so I flew down to give him one.

We surfed the pier for the last two days. Forecast said 2-3 feet Saturday and 1-2 today, but that spot picks up almost anything... I call it a pier/reef/beach break... All the accumulated sand around the pier forms a sort of artificial reef/sandbar. We had consistent 2-3 footers both days.

Surfed literally 10 hours in two days, caught countless fun little rides, maybe 100 waves on a rented 8’ foamie. Super low key vibe, a mix of some super talented loggers, groms and first time surfers (I scared the snot out of some lol).

Great weather, good beer, fun waves! Didn’t get to meet Kelly, though. 8)

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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby jaffa1949 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:57 pm

Does Kelly even live there now? :D
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby tomthetreeman » Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:00 pm

jaffa1949 wrote:Does Kelly even live there now? :D


No clue!
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby BoMan » Wed Mar 20, 2019 5:53 am

"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby Brian » Thu Apr 25, 2019 6:32 am

Surfed south central ocean beach yesterday evening. Fading peaky 3-4 ft wind swell. I was riding my 5'10 puddle jumper and got a few good rides. Decent crowd out and you could definitely feel the pull south. Fun session though, I saw a long boarder even get a little head dip.

Was reading some of the previous posts.. I moved to SF at the end of Feb from the LA area (Venice beach). Definitely a different vibe up here, some actual waves of consequence! I had a great session out at Pacifica state beach on Friday too, was very clean and 4-5 feet.

Overall the waves have been infinitely better than the slop I had been surfing out in Venice. I need to add a bigger board to my quiver.. my current step up is only a 6'2 chilli oh one.. prob need a 6'4 or even 6'6 for when it gets bigger. I've been cautious on pulling the trigger though as winter is over. I think I need to get a hood or cap... not loving the ice cream headaches when I have had to do a few duck dives in a row!
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby tomthetreeman » Sun May 12, 2019 12:44 pm

Golden hour last night, Pt. Judith.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby BoMan » Sat Jun 22, 2019 4:36 am

What to do when the local is flat and blown out? Pull out the long skateboard and slide down a hill. :D

https://sites.google.com/view/chrismalmgren/skating-alta-heights-62119
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby bobby » Tue Jun 25, 2019 10:07 am

Hello guys,

I'm a French surfer actually in Morocco for 2 months ! I am near Taghazout, 15 km to the north of Agadir and this is amazing here! There is so many surfing spots in the area, this is incredible ! I'm living in a surf camp really cool if you want to join me for a wonderful surfing experience :
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Reason: Advertising URL removed,
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun Jun 30, 2019 5:13 pm

stephbaker wrote:
PapaW wrote:Something for us to report on the latest sessions we've had, conditions etc... Post pics if you took any......!





Scored a suppsinly ok session at my local Wedge yesterday, 4-6ft lowtide bombs dispite the low period swell. Some classic moments including the inevitale jacking up of a cracker and not being able to pull off. Resignation that I was going over I had to pull a funny pose as I went down with the lip. Had my mate in stiches :p
Was dire this mornign tho :(

woah enjoyed a lot!


That was the first post in this topic in 2006, thirteen years, lots more waves and latest surfs since then!
Read up and enjoy :lol:
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