Later in life beginners

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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby dtc » Thu Apr 23, 2015 2:24 am

texassurfergirl wrote:I was worried about surfing my first time in front of others and didn't want people saying look at that old chick trying to surf...and while I'm still planning my first time for a weekday (fewer crowds I hope) and at an empty beach too I must say that simply having this topic on the forum makes me feel better! Thanks..
Studying surf etiquette and practicing my pop-up for my husband.
Texassurfergirl


You might enjoy / find some similarities with one of our other posters (a bit up the page from you) who has her own blog and covers many of the issues you may be experiencing about being an 'older' female beginner surfer

http://pacificvibrations.blogspot.com/
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby jaffa1949 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 3:34 am

Uncle Jaffa will shortly turn 66. Don't let your age or other people's opinion about age ( and you're the one only thinking it) deter you. Learn to surf and enjoy what we know for years. You level of skill will be uniquely your own and as you will find out, " Only a surfer knows the feeling! "
Be safe get fit and enjoy each step along the way. It won't be easy but it will be exciting and rewarding :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby SkeBum » Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:08 pm

RoamingGnome wrote:SkeBum - both your friends and the instructor have an interest in you having fun and learning. However, which do you think has more experience with helping beginners? The instructor will know whats good for 95% of the people out there. Honestly, you're 50 and at your size, you're likely gonna struggle to get that board moving. That all being said, if you're determined, you can do anything (not that I would personally hold my breath on this one... sorry).

Why not borrow a 7 ft board from one of those great friends of yours and see if you really wanna go that route?


Yeah, I went with the advice of the instructor and got a 10' board to increase my wave count. It seems to be working, and I will be dropping board sizes maybe by the end of the this year. I have an understanding wife who lets me go on my own and family vacations have started to revolve around surfing. Got the kid out the on the last trip.

Also have started to spend A LOT more time in the pool swimming, which I noticed helps also. Have dropped around 12 lbs, trying to get down to 190 which is probably the best I can hope for without losing a bunch of muscle and I'm learning my way around the line up. Having a gas, with the learning portion of it. I was in the beginner break last week, looked around and realized I was the best surfer in the line up, kind of like saying who is the tallest midget at this point, but actually shows awareness in the line up that I didn't have before.

One question for the gang about line up etiquette; Was out in the break last week, this wave is a right so the person on the outside left has priority, if they get the wave, or so I have been taught. Now there were around 6 of us out, one guy pretty good, me, then some tourists from Germany or some place on Costco boards, trying to drown in the kelp beds. I found a place I thought was the spot to be and lined up and the guy and I were catching waves from time to time, kind of sharing the break. Well a women comes out and sets up to my left and misses wave after wave that I wouldn't have tried for then keeps paddling around to my left, in position, after her mistakes. I had to pull out of a couple of waves that she actually made that I was also going to make. Finally, I set up under her and took a couple of waves from her, finally she wore herself out paddling for bad waves and left, the guy comes up to me and told me after she paddled in, not to take that crap from anyone. Now I knew she was taking position but being new I didn't quite know how to handle it and it is just a beginner break nothing to get too fired up about, any advice on how to handle this in the future.
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby dtc » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:45 am

SkeBum wrote:One question for the gang about line up etiquette; Was out in the break last week, this wave is a right so the person on the outside left has priority, if they get the wave, or so I have been taught. .... Now I knew she was taking position but being new I didn't quite know how to handle it and it is just a beginner break nothing to get too fired up about, any advice on how to handle this in the future.


The whole 'paddling inside to get a wave' thing is a notorious annoyance...in some places (like Snapper Rocks in Australia), the inside is right in front of some rocks and only the good surfers will dare the take off there. As things get crowded, they just move further and further inside until its just them on the inside, and then hog all the waves.

Constantly paddling to the inside is a form of snaking; and while the general rule is that the person inside has priority, that must always be balanced with the 'take turns' rule and the 'anti snake' rule. However, some surfers will always pick the rule that benefits them - if they are always inside, they claim priority; but if you are picking off too many waves they will argue for the 'take turns' rule. Then get upset when you pick them up on it. :yearght:

There are ways around it, or at least ways you can try without being too aggressive. For example, move so you are right next to her (if you are next to each other, claiming the inside is harder - it can then become the first to start paddling competition...sounds like this is what you did and is probably the easiest); yell 'mine' when you start paddling even if she is inside (don't do this constantly, but give her a wave or two or a mistake or two then do it and if she blows up about it, explain); say 'next wave is mine' in a lighthearted manner before she even starts thinking about it (but then, of course, you just have to go even if its a bomb set...). If you can, take off as soon as she is out of position - if she misses a wave, you get the next one (this is probably the second easiest method). If you need to you can say 'I don't mean to be rude, but if you could stop snaking me that would be appreciated' or 'if you could let me go for a wave now and then'.

You could even appeal to vanity - say 'sorry to bother you but I'm just learning, could you check me out paddling for a wave and tell me whether I'm doing the right thing'

However, you cant do any of the above (except for the out of position timing) if you are sitting 20m off the shoulder (where the wave first breaks) because you want to get the wave when its slightly smaller or less steep (perfectly understandable positioning for a beginner, but you cant have the best of both worlds).

If nothing works or you don't want to do it or you get an adverse reaction, then you just have to put up with it, move to another peak, or get more upset. Suggest not the latter! Some surfers are just wave hogs, especially when they can tell another surfer is a beginner; they figure the beginner will probably mess it up anyway so why even give them the chance. Part of it is being a more confident surfer yourself so they don't do this; but I fully appreciate saying 'be more confident' at your stage is nigh on impossible (and in no way do I blame you for it). It can often get better as you get better - people will respect you more in the line up and then, even though you will have the confidence to call her on it, you wont need to because she will be giving you the respect you deserve and letting you catch waves.

SkeBum wrote:then some tourists from Germany or some place on Costco boards, trying to drown in the kelp beds..


:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby Jester » Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:35 pm

By the way I just got chatting to a woman out in the waves yesterday who was 60 if she was a day. Only took it up last year. She was popping up and loving it as much as anyone else!

Here's a question re positioning then, is it considered snaking and bad form if you leave a few waves but no one puts themselves in the right spot on a beach break but when you're choosing a place to take off you can clearly see the break and head for it? I was out in a gaggle of beginners recently (me being one too) but I could sense the peak and went there each time, no one moved from their spot and weren't catching anything either. I didn't wanna be a wave hog so sat there and left a few go but got fed up when no one else was getting to the right spot to take their turn.
Question is was I wrong to go back out after each wave to hover near the take off zone? I did leave a few waves roll by every now and again to give everyone a chance, even called people on to them, always do that.
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby jaffa1949 » Mon Apr 27, 2015 1:40 pm

Sounds pretty much like good manners , roughly taking turns sharing of wave by letting a few go through all the right thing to do. If your experience gets you to the peak and others can't figure it or manage it. .... Then fair play, if you let them try some, then it is as it should be!
A sense of entitlement at any level in the food chain brings bad manners.
There is always another wave!
I notice whenever I get caught in an argey bargey surf session, my enjoyment collapses quickly followed by my skill.
Note to self be elsewhere in surf and in attitude.
If there is no smile on my dial it ain't worthwhile!
hoot others, comment on a good ride, give a wave or non-judgemental advice to a noob. :lol:
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby Jester » Mon Apr 27, 2015 1:46 pm

jaffa1949 wrote:If there is no smile on my dial it ain't worthwhile!


Lovin it Jaffa :D
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby SkeBum » Wed May 27, 2015 9:58 pm

Well thought I would post an update, not that anyone cares, but just had some time to kill so thought I would bore you guys with my surfing adventures. :D

Picked up my new board and buying my own board is one of the best things I have done. I don't have to worry AS much about dinging it as I do a loaner or borrowed board and it reacts the same manner every time I jump on it, as was built for my weight and skill level, and it works well. I break it out and paddle in the lake near my house just to keep in paddling shape which is a struggle not surfing every week. Will post picture of board at some point.

I have gotten to the point where I don't miss many gets up and that is no longer my weak link. Also have gotten so I can feel when I have caught the wave so I'm up and standing at the top before the drop and can try to trim for green water, also learning to accelerate around the white water when the wave sections to stay in the green water. Getting to be a known face in the line up, someone dropped in on me last week and another surfer that I know by sight, let them have it, telling them to get their shi! together.

Made the biggest drop of my short surfing life on a 4' face the other day and about lost my mind it was so cool. Told my wife and she just laughed, telling me I drop off 10' cliffs like it is nothing on a pair of skis, told her this is different and it is.

Anyway, have gotten the green light to go to a surf camp in the next 6 months as I think I could make great strides by surfing every day for a week or so with professional help, and I'm not a total beginner. Going on a surfing vacation in the fall, taking the truck and family and working the California coast for 10-12 days. Will start in So. Cal and go North up the highway, should be fun, weather that time of year is awesome in California.

Overall, having a gas. Cheers
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby jaffa1949 » Thu May 28, 2015 12:08 am

And that is exactly how a surfing evolution should unfold.
Step by step upstoking , progress and understanding, well done, and we are not bored.
Your writing helps every other LILB.
Keep telling us how you are going, it also validates what people are suggesting. Makes us feel good too! :lol:
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby SkeBum » Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:52 pm

Well was back out at it for a couple of days and learned some hard lessons, the main lesson I learned is that there is a big difference between a 1-3ft swell and 3-4ft one. First day started good as the swell was small and good for me, only a few people out in the line up and it was fun toward the end of the third hour out a bigger swell, which was forecast started rolling in. I found myself floundering, I would just let other people have the bigger ones and take the smaller ones, which worked out okay. Overall a pretty good day.

Day two was another story, bigger swell rolling in, producing some waves at best almost head high, most of them shoulder high. Well now there was a bigger crowd and you had to take what rolled through, which was easier said then done. I found the timing of these waves to much harder and I would be late on the take off, only to be standing on the top of the wave unable to make the drop and would then free fall 4ft, then get destroyed by the rest of the set. (Good times) Two guys saw this happen to me and gave me some pointers about catching these waves, which helped but I only got 2 or 3 of them and took a bunch on the head. I moved inside and caught a couple of smaller ones, but that was risking being in the wrong spot if a big set rolled in, so didn't play that game for long. Overall a discourging day. What I learned is that bigger waves require better timing and much more skill, which I don't have yet and these aren't even big really. I don't like getting caught inside, no fun at all. My paddling is stronger as I've been swimming and using a prone paddle board and have lost more weight. I was beating myself up about it and the wife suggested golf, gotta love her. Oh, dinged the new board for the first time, so that is out of the way.
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby 312T4 » Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:56 am

SkeBum
don't be too much down.
Last month in Coolangatta I've been out with fantastic kind of tubing waves (5+ft) and becuase of winter the crowd was decent and I could catch a few. Problem was: they were so steep and fast I couldnt figure what to do to get ahead of the curl. I was crushed many times. But I believe it opended my eyes on something I need t learn. Also, there were some amazing guys and overall it was just a fantastic day. Keep going. And have a look at my video.. it will give you hope!! :)
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:19 pm

Do yo mean this one?
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby Tudeo » Thu Jul 16, 2015 4:02 am

Very nice video, unique to see the development!
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby 312T4 » Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:34 am

yes that one! :D

I made some further progress from the last clip and I'm pretty happy to where I got surfing just once a week or less.
If I could get a week of good waves that'd be very interesting!

Anyway.. recently I surfed a big one, around 2m, which for me it's BIG, and I was able to slide down, turn and go back up.. that was the most amazing thing i've ever done! on a giant wave!! :mrgreen:
I love the wave at around 2'20'' in my video because I didnt have any skill to sucessfully do it but i went for it.. I got smashed..
..so SkeBum, just keep going! :thumbs:
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby drowningbitbybit » Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:03 am

312T4 wrote:Last month in Coolangatta... they were so steep and fast I couldnt figure what to do to get ahead of the curl...

Ooh, but Snapper is fast. And heavy when it goes wrong :shock:
Getting in front of the curl - and you'll probably need to be way in front of the curl - is really going for it.
I love Coolie on a small-ish day, but when it's big, I'm just outclassed by the waves and by the surfers (like, world champion level... actual world champions in fact) and you'll probably find me just around the corner at Greenmount :oops:
You'll probably find me surfing, but if not, I'll probably be in the photography studio
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby drowningbitbybit » Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:08 am

SkeBum wrote: I was beating myself up about it

If I beat myself up every time I had a less than great session, I'd be a world champion solo boxer by now :lol:

Don't get discouraged - happens to everyone. Don't think of it as doing something badly, but rather as just learning something for next time 8)
You'll probably find me surfing, but if not, I'll probably be in the photography studio
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby 312T4 » Mon Jul 20, 2015 4:45 am

@drowning
well.. that's exactly what i'm saying.. I was just in front of the rocks at greenmount (I never go close to snapper-no point) and the waves were still of good size but couldnt be fast enough to avoid the white water..
probably i have to take a step forward and crunch down.. i don't know.. but it was fun anyway
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby SkeBum » Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:46 pm

drowningbitbybit wrote:
SkeBum wrote: I was beating myself up about it

If I beat myself up every time I had a less than great session, I'd be a world champion solo boxer by now :lol:

Don't get discouraged - happens to everyone. Don't think of it as doing something badly, but rather as just learning something for next time 8)


Yeah, I'm the kind of person that process through stuff to improve and so I don't continue to make the same mistake over and over again, the wife believes this is a by-product of my profession, which is business jet captain. During training you get critiqued and are expected to fix any issues next time, I take that approach into a lot of things... Or so I'm told :shock:

I spoke with several surfers I know and ran through what happened and to a man, most of them said my get up was the issue, they said on bigger surf the window to stand up is much smaller and if you miss it, you pay. They also said it could have been I wasn't ready for that size of action yet, should have went to a different break. Haven't been surfing since, So-Cal was getting waves this week, but the swell up North isn't doing it. Been paddling and losing more weight so I can surf better when the swell does come and I can break away to surf.

@312T4 That video is classic.

Cheers
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:54 pm

The problem with fixing surfing problems is for the most part you have to do it surfing. Howver if you can identify the the issue a simple mind game can help. Just imagine in your mind that you are in the same situation and this time do the correct thing in your mind. If it is popping up you can physically do this popping up on the floor while imagining doing it with the correct timing/better paddling/better positioning/quicker. Do this every day till you go surf again. Then you still have to go surf but this time you are at least mentally prepared.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Later in life beginners

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:01 pm

I relearned to surf at around 56 years old. Initially I started doing shoulder exercises and walking trails. I did them for about 6 months, it took me that long to feel like I wasn't just going to flail around in the water. Then i looked for a used board. I saw a notice of two boards a 7'6 funboard and a 9'6" gun. I went to the owners house and they were exhusbands boards but the gun looked to be a better choice although it was thin and long it was built for speed which I figured would help me starting out.

It wasn't like getting on a bicycle after not riding for 11 years. It was pretty much like I never surfed before....well except I knew what to do. I think I managed to stand a couple times the first time out. The next time I think I rode a wave or two but it was slow going. When I learned the first time I never tried to catch whitewater or ride whitewater. I paddled for unbroken waves and if the whitewater caught me and I managed to stand then I tried to get to the unbroken face or I cut out and paddled back out.

Eventually I got to where I could ride waves ok and went for bigger and bigger surf. I caught some waves that were more than double overhead with that gun and while I could duck dive it because it was very thin I didn't mostly because I still took aserious pounding if I did. Then I ran into the wife of the guy who shaped all my boards before and she said he husband was ill and didn't shape any more and I told her I restarted and she said she knew where there was a great used board made by her husband. So I ended up buying a 9'6" longboard that had lots of tail rocker. That was just what I needed. I noticed right away it paddled much better than the gun but it's not like I was missing waves with the gun it was just much easier with the longboard.

I enjoyed that longboard and surfed it till I started feeling the weight of the board slowing down my turns. I could whip this big board around but I noticed the heavy feel of it while I surfed. Around this time my neighbor had a 7' fish board that he surfed which he let me use. It was awesomely fun and didn't feel heavy like the longboard. He told me the name of the shaper and he made my 8 foot quad fungun which I surfed for the last 2 years. I also have a 9'6" quad fungun and a now a 7'6" fungun.
Considering the lack of time I have to surf, I have come a long way. I think my surf skills are about where I was after 1 year of surfing before. I have aquired 5 boards in 5 years that I surfed, gave the gun away but still have the others plus I found a 6 foot board made for my wife in 1985 and I have 2 soft top SUP boards. I pretty much only surf 7'6 inch board now mainly because I want to try it in some bigger rights before I switch out the fins and try it as a quad.

Anyway just an update and overview for those who have read every single post I have made her over the years.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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