When is it safe/unsafe to surf

[tomcat360]

Where I am it's all flat, sand bottom, public beach. So either it's surfed, or it's banned(they don't mess around, $500, no questions asked). Secret spots are kinda therefore eliminated.

Now yes, there are a few places that are kinda out of the mainstream light, so they are definately less crowded, but I still woulnd't call them secret, considered they aren't concealed at all, and although it's less populated, it's still rather populated. Just not a city.

[nicobux]

Hello!

I have to agree: be careful and ask the locals, also head to the beach when you start beeing exhausted...

A few months ago i went to surf for the first time on a beachbreak in western Britanny (france). It's supposed to be a really good spot, between 2 rocky points.
Well it was nice, with waves slightly too big for me.
After 1h in the water, i noticed i was 2 or 300 meters from the shore, whith a nice current slowly pushing me towards the rocky point where 3m waves were crashing. I wasn't alone on the spot, but quite isolated and in a wild place with no lifeguard or anything. And of course my arms were starting to feel a bit tired.
It took me 15 minutes to paddle back, and i was very very glad to reach the shore.

[Partyboy]

After 1h in the water, i noticed i was 2 or 300 meters from the shore, whith a nice current slowly pushing me towards the rocky point where 3m waves were crashing. I wasn't alone on the spot, but quite isolated and in a wild place with no lifeguard or anything. And of course my arms were starting to feel a bit tired.
It took me 15 minutes to paddle back, and i was very very glad to reach the shore

You need that man,IMO every surfer needs to be caught between a rip and a hard place and have to use every once of energy and more to get out of it, unless you get the xxxxx scared out of you good and proper ur never gonna give the sea the respect it deserves. Had to pull a beginner out of a very strong rip few weeks ago, no rocks in sight, one minute there was waves the next no waves, sun shining no sign of danger lovely day,he was just loving chilling out there until after 30 mins of paddling he was stuck and movin further out and panicing, I swam out swapped boards with him and paddled him out of it, when he got on shore he was shaking like a leaf, but you can't teach lessons that and I think everyone has to experience it...