Making a Skimboard

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

Postby Dec » Mon Nov 27, 2006 12:51 pm

FishKid Wales wrote:Dec after reading this post last night i FISHed out my skim board and i think due to the vast nose and tail rocker you are left with a far smaller plaining area which i think increases speed/length of ride and prevents you from burying the nose, so with out trying to sound negative i cant see how yours is gunna work, unless yuou use in on a steep beach as i use mine mostly in the tiny film that is left after the wave has gone back out.

N.b I could be way off the mark with this 1 so if any 1 can correct me feel free!


I have sorted the nose out so it's going to have about an inch maybe a little more rocker on it and the tail will have about 1cm.

Any other suggestions as it really is helping!

WOO
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Postby FishKid Wales » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:03 pm

Dec wrote:
FishKid Wales wrote:Dec after reading this post last night i FISHed out my skim board and i think due to the vast nose and tail rocker you are left with a far smaller plaining area which i think increases speed/length of ride and prevents you from burying the nose, so with out trying to sound negative i cant see how yours is gunna work, unless yuou use in on a steep beach as i use mine mostly in the tiny film that is left after the wave has gone back out.

N.b I could be way off the mark with this 1 so if any 1 can correct me feel free!


I have sorted the nose out so it's going to have about an inch maybe a little more rocker on it and the tail will have about 1cm.

Any other suggestions as it really is helping!

WOO


Buy 1 as they cost feck all :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby Dec » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:24 pm

Can't get them here! Plus is cool to just put stuff together and see how miserably they fail when you actually test them!
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Postby tomcat360 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:51 pm

You could just cut it, but it will be less strength and you will still need to do something to make sure water isn't getting between.

The hotcoat makes it not tacky and sandable. Laminating resin dries tacky, and if you touch the resin, it turns black due to the oils on your hands. Also, there is a hard texture from the glass, so the hotcoat fills all this in.

If you look on swaylocks, there is probably a thread in the resources that has a MUCH better walk through than my pathetic post.
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Postby Dec » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:56 pm

But what is hotcaot? And how do you make it? and how do you apply it?!

You can tell I am a complete newb!
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Postby kitesurfer » Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:00 pm

Dec wrote::lol: I do have a rather useless collection of tools, and hardware because of my boating job. That kinda helped.

But I stole the shape from the internet


Tut, tut, tut, you wouldn't catch me doing that! And if you think your colection of tools is useless you wanna see some of the things we've got in my mates workshop.
Sorry dec for missing this one for some reason it slipped past my beady eyes.
Tomcat has answered most of your glassing questions i think.
Hotcoat is also called the sanding coat and it goes on after glassing. Basically it's resin, hardner and an additive called 5% wax in styrene. You use about 2% of this stuff and what happens is the wax that's in it rises to the top of the resin as it goes off creating an air tight film thaty allows the resin to cure properly and makes it dry to the touch and hence sands very easily as opposed to gunking up sand paper etc.

As for wrapping the rails, personally i'd cut enough fibreglass to let it hang off the edges of the board by 50-75 cm. When you laminate as tomcat suggested ensure that the hanging fibre glass is nice and wet. That way it wil have enough weight to keep the glass nice and close to the edge whereas wrapping tight rails is likely to induce air bubbles and just be a pain in the arse.
When teh rsin gells or goes green you can trim the excess easily by running a stanley blade along the underside of the board.
When you come to do the other side repeat the process and your rail will now be effectively wrapped.
However this reply may have come too late for you if you've already started glassing, in which ignore all of the above.
Glass the top and bottom up to the edge. Then either with some fibreglass tape or lengths of matting (are you using matting or chopped strand glass) you can glass this onto the edges but it might not be that easy.
Anyway for the type of board your making just resin will probably be fine by itself.

KS
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Postby tomcat360 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:02 pm

Ok, there are two (really three) types of polyester resin.

There is laminating resin, which is used for "wetting out" the cloth. It is applied with a squeege.

There is hot coat resin, which has a sanding agent added to it, so it dries not-tacky and sandable. It is generally applied with a brush, goes on thin, and fills in any gaps. This is then sanded.

There is then an optional coat, which is the gloss coat. Makes it sexy looking, but doesn't necessarily(sp?) make it faster. See the post on swaylocks about that, it's all waaaayy above my head. (too much physics behind that one)

You should have a ton of questions, just ask away. I think I sent a 100 PM's to deathfrog before I even understood what was going on.
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Postby Dec » Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:30 pm

:lol: Questions questions questions!!

I might need a step by step..photo by photo walkthrough here!!

Basically you can't make the hotcoat resin? It's buyable? (looks like another trip to the fiberglass shop!)

Also..is there any reason its called a hotcoat? It won't involve any heat? :lol:

I think the hotcoat is what I've been looking for because my resin isn't drying like I'd expect it to! More of a hard rubber than a sandable finish!

Thanks

PS. Heavy ass thunderstorm on its way so I won't be on tonight. Might catch you tomorrow.
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Postby tomcat360 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:07 pm

I must have been typing when you were posting, KS. That wasn't there when I started...

It can get hot if you kick it really fast, due to the catalytic reaction, but it gets weaker or something if you go too fast. And the first one you really don't wanna get caught with it going off too fast!

You buy hotcoat.

And you still need your tacky stuff you are talking about (lam resin) just put the hot coat on top.

And don't touch the tacky stuff! It turns black and nasty from the oil in your hands.
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Postby mrc » Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:04 pm

Alright skim boards don"t have fins they"d stick in the sand and you would"nt move
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Postby kitesurfer » Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:58 pm

The sanding coat i believe is called the hot coat because before the wax in styrene became available the sanding coat was put on the board hot but i'm not sure of the exact history behind it.

KS
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Postby xswind » Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:06 pm

Dec

This is how I would do it.

1 - layup one side of the board with glass, wrapping the cloth over the edges and onto the underside (The overlap should be say 2 inches) wet out the cloth with just laminating resin and cat and leave to cure.

Cure means tacky surface.

2 - Do the other side as per #1, leave to cure.

3 - Apply a sanding coat with a brush to one side of the board and leave to cure,
use the same laminating resin as before and cat. but this time also add 2-5% of an addative called "Wax in Styrene".

4 - Do the other side as per #3, leave to cure.
Once cured this makes the sandable, dry to the touch finish you are after.

5 - Sand each side smooth and finish with fine WetnDry.

For a first board you do not need a gloss coat, just polish the sanding coat if you want a shiny finish, it works great.

I hope this helps?
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Postby GowerCharger » Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:21 pm

FishKid Wales wrote:Dec after reading this post last night i FISHed out my skim board and i think due to the vast nose and tail rocker you are left with a far smaller plaining area which i think increases speed/length of ride and prevents you from burying the nose, so with out trying to sound negative i cant see how yours is gunna work, unless yuou use in on a steep beach as i use mine mostly in the tiny film that is left after the wave has gone back out.

N.b I could be way off the mark with this 1 so if any 1 can correct me feel free!


if your just skimmin on the shallow water left after a wave goes out a flat board is perfect (maybe with a little nose rocker to stop it diggin in but not needed), the rockered ones are for catching shorebreak and surfing it or doing airs and stuff. The first skimboards where just flat wooded discs and went fine on the flat sand.
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Postby Dec » Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:49 am

Right, seems I have kind of solved the resin issue!

Only problem is the rocker. I haven't really got a decent option..

Suggestions?
Start a new?
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