Hey thanks Millsy that's really good stuff and will definitely consider that. I'll go watch some videos of those techniques you said there. I am familiar with the turtle roll but I can't say I've ever tried it.
For waves to be in a decent line, what does the wind direction have to be? Sometimes I've gone surfing and the waves are coming in at all directions diagonally and everything. I'll just stick to the 3ft stuff at the moment then until my fitness improves. I play 5 a side football twice a week and go to the gym doing random arm and leg work twice a week but what would I need to focus on? I presume anything to do with building stamina and shoulders?