Second surf a pretty small gutless day basically went out to build paddle strength, the board is not suitable for this sort of surf..
It cannot generate enough drive in the initial drop to accelerate our of the bottom turn to beat the white water and although it chugs along kneeboards are not the white water masters, so I just rolled out of most waves.
However two waves in the session presented bigger takeoffs and a presentable wave, enough to drive and hit a high line in the pocket, minor barrel and the board sat just right for that moment.
Ideally the board looks to be a power master and will require some decent surf to really test it and me.
Indonesia long hollow walls beckon ( but not this season, health issues will hinder that).
2018 will be the time and both body and board will be well harmonised and ready!!
Although 2018 will be my 60th year surfing and 2019 being my 70th wavular celebrations planned.
Thinking of taking the acknowledgement for gift of surfing back to Hawaii, wife rides Waikiki in an outrigger canoe while I surf ( standing ) alongside.
Plumeria will be the emblem.

I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷