Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

Head high to slightly overhead and nice but inconsistent waves. If I had more than 30 minutes to surf I might have dialed in a tube ride. The waves were more fun than they looked from the shore. I was sharing the break with another old out of shape overweight surfer. I was sitting in the lineup waiting and talking story with my fellow old man surfer and a wave came in that we were a little too inside for I paddled to the side and made a late takeoff with my board angled because I was late, made the drop but even taking off angled the wave broke past me but I did a forward hop right into the pocket. I was so surprised how much distance I made on that hop that I didn't stall to get tubed but I might have gotten tubed right there. I could feel the shade of the lip over my head. Anyway fun day

[oldmansurfer]

Went back out today about the same size but more wind and more different swells coming in. I did a full cutback on a wave right in the middle portion of the wave. I started to do a carving cutback but realized my 8 foot board might not complete it since the face was only shoulder high at that part so I pushed the tail really hard like I would for a tail sliding cutback but it didn't slide and resulted in a small radius carving cutback that went all the ways back to the whitewater and I rode the wave for another 20 yards I am getting better on my cutbacks. The only other remarkable thing was I was taking off on a wave and the wave hit me as I popped up and my front foot slipped off the board which isn't too remarkable but the remarkable thing was I pulled in back on and rode out the wave.

[oldmansurfer]

Went out yesterday and it was over head but difficult to lineup and catch and fast waves. Today was better a little bigger and you could take off anywhere. I missed my usual Sunday morning surf because it was raining hard and I had to make soup. I make 4 to 5 gallons of soup at a time and freeze it in meal sized containers then nuke it for lunch. I have been doing this for a while and use ingredients from my garden usually supplemented with some meat and soup stock made from the bones of whatever meat I am buying. This time it was taro and green onions and chicken but I added some smoked pork that I had for additional flavor. Well anyway with the rain and on a day where I was making soup I decided to make the soup in the morning and see if the weather got better and it did. So did the waves. It was fun and I managed to do a bunch of turns including at least one cutback. It's beer thirty now

[oldmansurfer]

I forgot to mention the only real bummer other than falling on a cutback attempt when I was too far forward on the board was on the wave I caught in. There was a big crumbly section that was breaking to the inside of me so I needed to go around the section but as I dropped down there was a boogie boarder in the way and to tell the truth there were some huge warbles in the wave that might have hindered my getting around the section. At any rate I didn't make it around and that wave was probably a long faced wave with some tube potential anyway I got bounced off my board then on my way in got caught from behind by 3 more waves which kind of tossed me around but I did manage to hang onto my board and right when I came in a young woman surfer was walking by probably watched me get pounded. LOL Well I didn't mind the pounding. It was relaxing but a bummer I didn't make it around the section on my wave in.

[oldmansurfer]

So I went surfing yesterday on my 9'6" board because my 8 foot board has a ding which I am repairing. A foot and a half is a large amount and I have to learn to use this board every time I have to use it. The waves were shoulder high but I go this board for double overhead or higher waves.......well I guess now is just as good of a time to surf it as any.

[drowningbitbybit]

Bump Bump McOnshore Bump.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out Thanksgiving and yesterday and today. Today was the most fun. I got tubed sort of. I was trying to generate speed on this wave but it was slopey and there was a long wall so I figured I would get closed out on but this long section walled up and I was in position to do a floater off the closeout but it looked like maybe a tube so I tucked under the lip and ducked my head but got just barely clipped in the head by the lip and had a second or maybe even two seconds of time in a frothy tube with chandeliers all over the place till it collapsed on me. Yesterday I had to share the surf with a turtle and today no one.

[drowningbitbybit]

Surfed like a bag of wet spuds this morning

[oldmansurfer]

I surfed at my usual break with a young girl who was lined up about 50 yards to the left of me on Saturday and surfed a break about 600 yards out with a bunch of SUP guys Sunday and caught only one wave but the good news is I didn't get tired at all so I am getting into better shape.

[drowningbitbybit]

Gorgeous conditions this morning... 2–3ft, offshore and glassy smooth
There were people out, but the crowd wasn't too bad and the vibe was nice and relaxed.

Caught a whole bunch... and wiped out with grace and style on several of them

[oldmansurfer]

Didn't surf yesterday but it was small (waist high) and it was raining and my dog was sick. Today it was windy and closing out but it was overhead so I went out and caught a few. Just a steep drop then a couple turns and then closeout but it was fun working on my speed turns and the steep drops just love those steep drops. Yesterday I would have gone out if my dog wasn't sick but that was enough to kill my drive for waves. He is still sick today but overhead waves!!!! just have to go catch some.

[drowningbitbybit]

my dog was sick.

Aw, that sucks - get well soon oldmandog!


Had an awesome surf last thing yesterday - 3–4ft with a strong offshore wind, which I don't usually like, but I was getting onto the waves fine and then having long long rides on a vertical face

The only downsides were
1) flippin' long paddle back to the line up
2) Bottled out of the wave of the day... double-overhead monster came in, and I was in perfect position for it. But looking down (very very down) the face was enough to make me hesitate and that was enough for the offshore wind to prevent me catching it. Damn me and my cowardice!

[oldmansurfer]

head high and smaller waves today. got some closeout tube rides and a back shoulder tube and did a couple floaters .....small but fun day

[oldmansurfer]

Went out today and earlier the conditions were perfect but by the time I could get away to go to the beach the wind picked up. I didn't see any really good waves anywhere but the best seemed to the right side so I went there. There were surf lessons in progress and the surf really didn't look very good. I looked back down the other way and the sandbar I usually surfed had a left come in that looked ok so I went down that way. When I got to the part I usually surf I saw Horner's was breaking and it looked much bigger than the little shore break so I went out there. It was overhead and some waves at the peak maybe two times overhead this is what we would call 4 to 5 feet. There were two boils that I could use to lineup at least 3 different swells. I lined up for the middle swell which is what I am most familiar with these days figuring that if I drifted one way or the other I might be in position for the other peaks coming in. Steep drops and mostly short rides but I almost got tubed on one wave (backside) but got clipped by the lip when I stood up to turn back down the wave. I wasn't in the best position for the biggest wave I caught , if I had been deeper there was a peak there that would have allowed me to get into the wave quicker and maybe get up enough speed to make it through the other peak on the inside or if I lined up there at the inside peak I would have made it but it looked from the shore like when the wave did that I would have a good chance to make it around because that inside peak didn't break top to bottom and left a bit of face to ride around the section but I still got cleaned out. Oh well it was my time to come in anyway.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out yesterday and today. Yesterday was pretty big like double overhead and since Hanalei was blown out a lot of guys who would normally be there were at my beach. Since it was so good yesterday and the conditions were even better but a little smaller so there were even more guys out. The biggest wave I caught today I hung out at the top for a moment to figure out which direction I wanted to go but it wasn't looking good either way so I went right and tried to go around the huge section and almost ended up taking out a shortboarder by wiping out right in front of him. Fortunately my board missed him by about 10 feet. I dove down to try to keep from getting swept back toward him. I think maybe if I hadn't been looking left I would have had a better chance to make it. The bigger waves were inconsistent both days and it was difficult to stay lined up but I managed to catch a couple good waves both days.

[oldmansurfer]

I finally got someone to take a picture of me surfing. It looks a little bigger than double overhead

[oldmansurfer]

I am just kidding of course that is a tow in surfer at Jaws

[drowningbitbybit]

First post-christmas surf, and I surfed like an overfed turkey

[oldmansurfer]

So this weekend I only got to surf today and it was small, waist to chest high and lots of backwash. I fell down on the two best waves I caught due to backwash. it's funny..... Christmas eve was so big I am sure there are a lot of surfers who wouldn't go out and today was so small there are lots of surfers who wouldn't go out. But me , I go out both days and maybe catch like 4 waves on the big days and 20 waves on the small days

[drowningbitbybit]

Big! Lumpy!
Little pockets of protected glassiness where you could pick up the big whitewater waves as they were reforming and get a sorta clean face. Kinda fun, but a lot of paddling *wheeze*