Latest Surfs...

[jaffa1949]

This sequence is from today at The Bar, it was one of many but I like this one because it shows all the elements of surfing a fast wave. halfway through the sun comes out.

[CARBr6]

Gosh Uncle J, your hair has gotten long, and you're looking awfully well

[oldmansurfer]

Nice waves Jaffa. Where's the tube riding part? Look at all the spray he threw off that lip....nice turn.

[jaffa1949]

Two answers here, one for Carby and some for OMS. Firstly I'm good( )but shooting them and riding them nup . Movable sand bar, OMS, wasn't really opening up but those that did were rid

There you go

[dtc]

Nice wave there - easy takeoff and then once you are up and running the tubing part. So no boats going out of the river today?

[jaffa1949]

Fixed but this was yesterday

[oldmansurfer]

Not as nice as Jaffas but I went two days, the first I paddled out to a break that is 500 yards out because it looked like there were some nice waves and I needed the paddling exercise. definitely got the exercise....Paddled out (took me 10 minutes) and caught two waves that I fell down on, two waves that I made a couple fun turns on and two waves that fizzled out never giving me a chance to do some fun turns. Then today I surfed the waist high shorebreak and caught maybe 20 waves 2 of which I managed to do some fun turns on. I am feeling in shape, confident and ready for some larger surf but you know I always feel better after surfing.

[oldmansurfer]

I went back out to the break that is 500 yards out. It had clean nice little head high waves today and I shared the break with a single standup paddler. Fun little waves but I only surfed for my usual 30 minutes. There was a nice bigger set about every 15 minutes and if I stayed out longer I might have gotten a chance at one of those

[oldmansurfer]

I went out yesterday overhead waves fun fun fun. I pearled my board on takeoff something I hadn't done in a while. I think the wave jacked up a little due to bottom contour change or possibly a little bit of a backwash and the wave was steeper than I expected and I didn't adjust for it. Did a nice foam climb floater kind of a maneuver. It was just me and a longboarder who was older than me (not Jaffa) surfing this area. The wave I pearled on would have been my best wave most likely if I made the bottom turn. But I am just about to go back out today. Off to the beach.......

[oldmansurfer]

Not quite as good today but just me out well till a couple guys came out. One guy was trying to teach he second guy how to surf. Not a good day for that even if it is intermediate level which it didn't seem to be. Pity for the guy learning plus the teacher seemed pretty gruff and grumpy. There were at least a couple swells at different angles and many of the waves were double waves often ridable today whereas most days the double waves weren't worth the effort but you had to know which ones to go on and whether to go for the front wave or the back wave and then sometimes you had to wait for the wall to build. Anyway I had a lot of practice learning to judge waves and learning to do foam climbs and floaters.

[drowningbitbybit]

Brrrr.... winter arrives on the Gold Coast.... brrrrrr....

... 27C and just been surfing in boardies

Some nice little lines this morning. A bit full on the high tide, but fun clean waves.
My fitness has suffered from having my mum and then my in-laws visiting for the last 2 months!

[jaffa1949]

Brrrr.... winter arrives on the Gold Coast.... brrrrrr....

... 27C and just been surfing in boardies

Some nice little lines this morning. A bit full on the high tide, but fun clean waves.
My fitness has suffered from having my mum and then my in-laws visiting for the last 2 months!

SURF it will help your mental health after that rampage

[drowningbitbybit]

SURF it will help your mental health after that rampage

Back to daily surfs (and not having daily RSL lunches) and I'll soon be back to surf-fit!

[jaffa1949]

The rissole club lol

[oldmansurfer]

Went out today head high waves fun but most of them were difficult which is ok. I paddled over to another peak nearby to catch a wave in to the shore and realized I should have been there all along. I was looking for a right that I saw break about every 10 minutes but found a left right next to it. I figured what the heck I haven't been riding any lefts for a while and rode a left in and did a couple turns that felt real good then the wave was sectioning in front of me and I timed the turn wrong and got pounded. Oh well I enjoy a good pounding and it was a good wave to come in on.

[oldmansurfer]

The waves were slightly better today but not the area with the left. I almost got in the tube today, took off and saw a long wall that looked like it might tube I tried to scrunch myself into the space I thought the tube would be but my board took off like a rocket and I didn't get tubed. Probably I should have kick stalled, too late now, still it was fun trying. Maybe if I was using a thruster fin set I would have gotten tubed

[oldmansurfer]

I had my usual two 30 minute sessions this weekend. One with another oldmanoverweightoutofshape surfer and the second outing with some longboarders who fell down on almost every wave. I finally decided to catch the inside break because the outside was just crumbling and the inside had some nice walls,. I am ready for the week.

[drowningbitbybit]

Absolute bloody perfection out there this morning

The surf forecast said 'clean, 1-2ft' but there were some good solid sets coming in, and the waves just ran and ran and ran.

The only downside was that because it was a bit chilly overnight, I was in a wettie (only a 2mm springsuit) for the first time in months and that, combined with my horrible, lack of fitness, made me feel like I was paddling through jelly!

[drowningbitbybit]

I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left I got a left !!!!!!!!

Okay, that might be a bit too much excitement for a couple of waves, but I got a left I got a left I got a left!

I'm one of those freaks who rides natural but way prefers left. But since I moved to the Gold Coast, all I ever see is right-breaking point breaks. Don't get me wrong, they're superb waves, but you could say that they're just all right

Today was absolute perfection with a stiff offshore blowing and chest to headhigh waves running off the point, but because of the offshores they stacked back up again into peaky left sections as they wrapped into the bay. And best of all, noone but me was taking them. I kinda think that noone around here has ever experienced a left...

[oldmansurfer]

For me it's kind of funny how my love for lefts goes. At first I hated lefts but there were so many good lefts that I began to realize I could surf lefts better than many who were goofy. I can still remember the day I realized that. I was so surprised having a good day surfing on a fast left and my goofy friends were jealous. I started to think of rights and lefts as equal. If there was an equally nice left and right break I would have a difficult time to make up my mind and would probably surf them both. After I quit surfing and restarted I learned to do a good backside bottom turn and top turn pretty quickly but my front side bottom turn took a couple more years to get down and during that time I surfed left if there were any or rights if they were nicer. Now I have a good front side bottom turn and a few other front side turns getting there and I love rights more than lefts. In particular I can do floaters or foam climbs front side but haven't got the backside versions down yet. Well anyway Lucky you both for getting a left and for living in a land of rights