Latest Surfs...

[dtc]

But Ita will send you something I'm sure. Next Friday is looking good your way. At least size wise, could be a complete washing machine

[jaffa1949]

It's the full washing machine down here and nowhere near 10 to 15, the low is very close, 7 second period. Went to the suitable suspects and not even worth a photo, Will try again tomorrow.
Did shoot some video of 1963 vintage cars to match a surf /music video i am working on.
I have been give some shots of cars and and surf. here's a few.

Photo courtesy of John Smythe

Photo courtesy of John Smythe

Photo courtesy of David Arvind Condon

These were all shot around 1963 when the south coast was very much an untouched surf zone.
The photo rights rest with the photographers mentioned.

[dtc]

Great lifting technique in the second photo, must make you wince as a chiropractor!

Look how flat those boards are. What area is it (although much of the Sth Coast looks, or looked, much the same I guess). Those fibro shacks are disappearing but there are still some around.

[oldmansurfer]

went out today with over head waves tried to catch bigger waves on the outside but there was a strong current and the peaks would look like they were going to break then flatten out or suddenly lurch up and break and many were double waves and if you picked the right one it might be a good ride (I never picked right).. I had a couple late takeoffs and fell on both of them. One of them it looked steep so I did what I usually do but the wave was only steep at the top so I did like a one foot airdrop and the board landed at an angle which made it move sideways and I was unable to stay on it. I went in and caught a wave on the inside on my way in and that had a nice wall and I did a couple of off the lip type maneuvers but really I was just cruising in. When I got in everyone was like "Nice wave" it had to be that last one on my way in because none of the bigger waves amounted to much. My wife said I made it look easy (It was easy) still happy day surfing

[jaffa1949]

Great lifting technique in the second photo, must make you wince as a chiropractor!

Look how flat those boards are. What area is it (although much of the Sth Coast looks, or looked, much the same I guess). Those fibro shacks are disappearing but there are still some around.

Secrets revealed........ the lifter is doing "the horizontal koala" an aboriginal yoga pose, restful while working flat out. The dirt road there is down to Golf Course reef at Ulladulla.
The water crossing is Sapphire coast drive on the flats between Tathra and Merimbula ( tarred now and good for about 150KMH. The surf shot Merimbula at its finest.

[dtc]

The dirt road there is down to Golf Course reef at Ulladulla

Huh, I go down that road all the time. Not to surf (since the reef hardly ever seems to be working when I'm there) but to take the kids to a rock pool/swimming hole.

The road is a little bit better now I guess. But having to drive through the Golf Course on the way in is always a trifle stressful (since you drive through the fairways on the 1st and the ?8th. Anyway, well in driving range).

[jaffa1949]

But Ita will send you something I'm sure. Next Friday is looking good your way. At least size wise, could be a complete washing machine

This is where a cyclone swell off Fiji or the south coast of Queensland comes in. Ita was around the bend our swell was from a double east coast low big and messy and southerly winds producing this

All ready to shoot , drove home with only scenics and half way to the bitumen the clutch on my car completely carked it. Thank you mobile phone at least I didn't have to walk to get a tow truck. This shot will have cost me about $3000 dollars.
Please enjoy it.
Oh and my own special spot was closed due to a large ( 4metre ) shark in the line up less than a week after the lady was taken Think I'll take the clutch option, hopefully fixed before easter.

[CARBr6]

Well I am now back from an excellent 4 days in Polzeath. Usualy issue of both of us spending hours in the surf and neither of us wanting to take photos mean that the only pics are from the first day (which was pretty messy!), although it cleaned up a lot in the afternoon as the tide changed.

Not the best pics, but it's just nice to be out. seriously stoked for IoW in May (only hope there is surf when we go!!)

[dtc]

Oh no, a goofy!

You're right about it being messy but looks like there were fun waves

[CARBr6]

We're both Goofy. I guess it's iust meant to be.

[drowningbitbybit]

World class waves tonight on the Gold Coast... well overhead, powerful cyclone swell, long green walls, barrels... and a completely outclassed surfer

[jaffa1949]

Serious surf at my spot today 8ft plus and barreling down the line and at least 50 who had no clue on where to be in the line up and multiple drop ins.
Quite dangerous.
I threw my first punch in the line up for many years.

Probably the best punch and most appropriate and accurate I've thrown.
Settle I'll explain......... beyond the frothing crowd already present, 4 guys come out on wafer thin short boards all obviously new and begin to curse and swear ,whilst dropping in on everyone. They were asked to share and take turns in the crowd management. F---OFF and a whle string of vindictiveness followed.
Three drop ins on me the last gouging my shin to drawn blood.
They were average surfers, I told them to think about their attitude still politely but firmly.
Next drop in was aimed at my head, normally I would push some one like that back over the wave as I was coming up from a driving bottom turn.
This time I didn't I punched, th nose of the guys board about 10 inches back from the nose.
It was a perfect punch through the bottom glass and foam enough to raise serious outward dents on the the deck, the guy showed it to me and complained ( the shape of my knuckles imprinted to bottom )
It was a brand new board
He wanted to argue further , but the crowd, particularly the genuine locals gathered and advised them to go in. Which they did.
My parting comment was I could have chosen to punch him in the face, kick my board at him or do him harm. Not something I would be happy to do.
Great surf could have been severely ruined but I had enough waves to fulfill my needs and the day continued.

Sheeesh Don't roll the Jaffa.
My leg, three stitches on the calf muscle

[surf patrol]

Note to self - don't drop in on Jaffa

I thought for a minute there you were going to punch the guy, sounds like he may well have had it coming.

[jaffa1949]

Strangely enough I can tolerate drop ins and even a bit of mouth towards me,.
It was when he aimed his board at my head whilst dropping in after cutting my leg previous that I had had enough.
The surf was big enough that a head collision would have been very injurious or even deadly.
I am 65 this year, so grumpy old man, and I have never seen such a set of bad attitudes from three guys in the water. It wasn't just towards me, it was to everyone Found out later one of the local crew thought enough of the incident to take their car registration and report to the police.

[oldmansurfer]

Don't mess with Jaffa I am glad you got some waves. I hate it when guys like that ruin the lineup. Fortunately I rarely see anything like that but my usual response is to leave for less crowded conditions. There is still lots of waves over here some very crowded and some not at all.

[drowningbitbybit]

Double overhead @15s, gentle offshores... theoretically perfection... in practise, @RSE WHIPPED!!!

[oldmansurfer]

Getting pounded is a part of surfing. I enjoy it to an extent...went out today waist high waves so no pounding but joy in my heart just to be there

[jaffa1949]

That is the sort of day I prefer too.

[dtc]

Looks like big surf for Jaffa this week...

Was surfing last weekend, quite messy as the largish swell and the strong wind were in different directions and the waves were breaking all over the place. Very hard to find a peak, clean up sets, the whole works. But after a week of knee to waist high waves (how quickly did that Easter swell disappear, for all the East Coast Aussies!) I was willing to give it a go. Anyway, finally a wave came and I thought 'will just catch it, not many chances'. Was probably about 1.25 or a bit overhead (4-5ft).

As I paddled for it I realised that it was closing out down the line but too late - had already caught the wave. Popped up, started going down the wave hoping to bottom turn around the white water. About 1/2 way down thought 'mmm, this wave is actually pretty steep' then thought 'mmm, my board has a flat rocker, wonder what will happen when I hit the bottom' then thought 'mmm, I should probably turn now' but... too late.

Hit the bottom of the wave at speed, board's nose into the water, board stops, DTC certainly does not stop and face plants spectacularly. All quite embarassing.

And I'm still annoyed a week later because I didnt turn! (not that turning into the close out would have made much difference probably but a high speed almost bottom turn is much funner than a face plant). Although I was the only one surfing so I guess no one was really watching.

Then caught another wave almost all the way in. Paddled back out for about 90 seconds minutes before realising (what with all the turtle rolls and largish waves coming at me from here and there and everywhere) that I had managed to paddle approximately 15 metres backwards...so gave up and went to another beach that was much more sheltered and battled it out with the crowds (ok, there were 5 of us - but it was a holiday long weekend).

[jaffa1949]

Sunday went to see the snow at Perisher gale force winds and gale force driven onshore washing machine on full suds cycle.
Today very nice up to double overhead but rent a crowd were on it 50 out and I couldn't be bothered went several times during the day ( only five minutes from home) and no gaps in the numbers.
Visible bad manner abounding in the lineup so I'm went to a little film editing.