Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

First surf of the new year. I paddled a half mile out to the break called black rock and caught 4 waves two of which didn't really break much then paddled back in caught 3 smaller waves in. Got a lot of exercise and didn't get tired. I think I learned something about paddling. If you want to get the most out of your paddling then reach as far out as you can without straining the extra inches will make you go that much further and over distance it adds up.

[pandarturo]

Couple weeks back

[jaffa1949]

Now that is nice Pandarturo!!!!
A very different experience at my surf spot last surf.
Early morning start, beautiful conditions just like you are riding, six in the water catch a few waves at the same size turn around and forty five surfers of various levels of incompetence in the break and in the way.
( holiday crowds )
An outside set approaches setting up to be double overhead , I'm in perfect spot, full blooded deep throated take off, lay the bottom turn and drive whammo, kook and board and pulled down section land directly in front of me. WIPEOUT.
That wave is the first of the major part of the ground swell arriving , twenty five waves later I clear the zone of impact carnage every kook has been washed to the beach, there was no way to paddle wide.
I paddle out again 1/2 a mile from where I wiped out and back across the deep water.

King tide the waves are now driving across the sandbar at the entrance of the lake and tossing boats in the lake, lifeguards are worried when the tide turns the run out of tide + excess wave water will be deadly.
Today the swell has gone

[pandarturo]

Yeah after that section it gets hollow inside but it never tubed it was a fun left though!

[oldmansurfer]

pandarturo Looks like if you took off just a little bit over you could be tubed right there. Nice wave where is that if it's not a secret?

[pandarturo]

That's north beach on base lol not really secret but it is restricted. And no the lip Ruhr there doesn't throw, it is a little farther inside with a little less water that actually throws over enough to barrel.

[oldmansurfer]

So how often does it break like that? Why are there so many nice lefts? Cool and on base so it is restricted access that is really great.

[pandarturo]

It breaks like that with anything from a nnw to a straight north. North east and all the way up to east make such rights that come off the other side of the reef. Yeah the lefts are always there lol

[oldmansurfer]

My latest surf

Ok just kidding maybe Buttertoes latest not mine. Pretty nice waves for a lake

[drowningbitbybit]

I don't often post on Latest Surfs (it might get a bit dull as I'm surfing every day at the moment) but had a cracker of a surf this morning

Sunday morning in school holidays so I bypassed my usual spot at the point at Currumbin Alley and found a surprisingly good bank on the beachie at Palm Beach. After a few fairly good waves, I had one of those moments when the ocean calls your bluff - that large set coming towards you is quite clearly your wave, you are clearly in the best position to get it, there really is no excuse for not catching it, and if you do not catch it every one of your peers in the line-up will deem you unworthy... so PADDLE.

And I did.

A good overhead wall, going left with masses of speed and up onto the lip, lit up by the sunshine, and all went perfectly.
2013 didn't involve nearly enough surfing for a number of reasons, but 2014 is already showing the goods.
Life is good

[oldmansurfer]

I was out surfing today and my usual spot was full of surfers so I was checking it out and trying to decide which of the many breaks to go to when I ran into my neighbor who invited me to come out with him to a spot he called Crookeds which turned out to be the spot we used to call Rivermouth. It was a fast breaking right and a little too small for my board but it was fun.

[oldmansurfer]

Crookeds had a difficult to get used to lineup. The wave would build like it was going to break at a peak but then the peak dropped down and the wave broke over to the side about 10 yards. I tried to anticipate the wave dropping off but I ended up too deep and just having a late take off and not being able to keep up with the break although I did ok on a couple waves

[oldmansurfer]

Back out today for my half hour of fun. I went out at my usual beach in the middle sandbar area. When I first got there a bigger set came in and no one was on it so I thought I would go out and catch that bigger set when it came again. I was battling waves with a couple SUPers and finally caught a wave but it had a big crumbly section that I had to get around which I did but there were a group of surfers in the way and I didn't feel confident surfing around them so I cut out rather than running them over. I paddled back out and never caught another wave with the clock ticking down I went in and caught 2 waves in the last 5 minutes of my allotted time. I got a closeout tube on the second wave. I took off behind an Super who was riding for the next section over. The waves were like doubled up and crumbled at the top then broke better on the inside and I caught the forward portion of the double wave. It was fun and I saw it was closing out so tucked in and did a standing island pull out. It was big enough that I didn't need to crouch much to get in the tube so my knees appreciated that. Now to get tubed and come out.

[oldmansurfer]

Lately the waves where I surf have been somewhat nice so lots of people are frequenting the break(s). I hope it gets stormy and huge again soon as I usually catch more waves in my 30 minute sessions with no competition.

[theshreddah]

Here's a pic from last weekend at County Line. Awesome surf day followed by an even better sunset.

SharkEX - sharkex.com

[oldmansurfer]

I went out today after not surfing for two weeks (no waves at my beach). Only one young boy out where I was initially which is the sand bar by the river mouth, but I caught like 15 or so waves and I guess a couple other surfers who were where I usually go in the middle of the beach saw that and came over there too. SOOOOOO GOOD to get out and catch a few. I have been cleaning out my storage areas at home. I needed this surf session even if it was small. I may try my 6'2" board tomorrow.

[lb50ish]

3 days in the water 2 days of good surf 1 day of excellent surf and water temp68 air temp 80 mostly waist high ! I'm having a blast.

[oldmansurfer]

Went out today with my wife's old board, a 6'2" thruster.....LOL well it was fun and I managed to catch a couple waves but unless the waves are that small I won't likely being doing that again. What a large leap from my 8 foot fun gun. I will take me several times out to learn how to use that board. Still it was fun trying

[oldmansurfer]

I went SUPing today. My home break wave machine is broken for a while now....bummer but I did a personal best in catching 4 waves (knee high) and riding them for some distance during my 30 minute session.

[drowningbitbybit]

Out at my local tonight... kind of average conditions... and I was hopeless...

Missed wave after wave and wobbled around like a baby giraffe when I did catch something

Now, usually at this point it's traditional to blame the board, the waves, the fins, the crowds, the choice of sandwich for lunch... but, no, it was just me!