Latest Surfs...

[drowningbitbybit]

Just got back from a weekend of lovely small clean summer surf

Thursday was rubbish onshore nonsense, but I got in anyway as its been a while.

Friday was small and a bit gutless but lots of fun, and the push made it worthwhile. Surfed from before 8am to after 6pm and slept like a baby friday night (hang on, babies are rubbish at sleeping arent they?)

Saturday was another small day, and the afternoon push was about the only rideable time. Still, nice to be in the water in the sun with friends, mucking around on summer waves

[Driftingalong]

Wed. 6/29

Solid Chest to Head, low to incoming tide, fairly strong side shore current.
Riding my 6'6" swallow tail.

1st wave was about head high, paddled hard, made the drop and the bottom turn...that was about it. That one was short, but fast and sweet.
2nd wave was also about head high. Paddled hard, popped up, but I couldn't get under the lip. So, I standing there floating for a second in the middle of the lip...get launched and drilled. I get rag dolled about 3 times and brushed across the bottom. Nothing too bad really. When I surface I pull on my leash to get my board. That's when I see it; I blew out my right fin. It's just gone; nowhere to be found. FCS brand fin. The front plug broke in half. One half is still in the board the other half...gone. The back plug was still there with the foot of the fin still in it.
I thought the whole premise of that style of fin was that the fin breaks off leaving the feet in the plug (like the back plug) and no damage to the board. That just really pissed my off, but I guess the force was too much for it.

So I took it to Malibu's (local shop) and they said it wasn't bad really (clean break). They should have it fixed in a couple days. Plus they said they have extra fins and could probably sell me 1; instead of having to get a whole new set.

So, I guess, all in all it's not too bad. It just sucks that it was on my 2nd wave in rare conditions for MD (good size, especially in June).

To top it off, when I got in my car and I'm driving to Malibu's; there's this punk type of song on the radio with this guy singing...you've just got bad luck...bad luck...bad luck...bad luck...

[PapaW]

Lil bit of Groundswell showing phatness at high tide here tismorning. didn't get up early enough but I'm not too botherd. Will hit it this avo.

[DHSA]

Cooker of a session yesterday.

Arrived at my local spot just outside of Cape Town on the west coast (Atlantic ocean) at about 16:30. Wind was blowing a bit at first but later died down and the waves started to become cleaner and 4 - 5 ft.

Usually when I start to paddle for my first wave of the day I know what the rest of the session is going to be like, yesterday on first wave I just knew it is going to be an awesome day.

Wave number 1 approaching; I spun my board around and started to paddle, man I don’t think I will ever get over the feeling when a wave takes you and you can feel you are starting to gain momentum, feelings of excitement, anxiety, anticipation and sometimes fear all mashed up into a split second which is replaced by exhilaration the moment you turn and see the clear face down the line.

Popped - up and made a slow carving bottom turn into the face, hearing the splashing sound of the spray coming of the fins and your mates (and just other surfers) cheering you on as you pass them. Setup and trimmed out I just relaxed for a second or two before turning down the face just to make another carve up towards the lip trying to pull of the best Slater or Hobgood snap of the top.

Setting up again followed by a couple of pumps to gain speed and to charge the closes-out. The close-out comes as a disappointment but disappears as I realised there is plenty of waves to come from where this one came.

And so was wave 2, and 3, 4,5,6 etc. only with some variation.

Like they say only surfers know the feeling..... Yesterday was one of those days that only fellow surfers would be able to relate to. Keep up the stoke..


Shot...

[tomcat360]

Great session today. I checked wetsand.com on Thursday night and saw what is basically a mega small hurricane, coming up for perfect timing today. Got a ride down, took my ultra old mal and my way too small shortboard.

When I showed up, it was big and blown. As the day progressed, it became cleaner and cleaner. And bigger and bigger.

Good waves, I was so stoked that I made the forecast call, and had a ride to back it up. It was solid chest through most of the day. To put it in perspective, even I got my thruster out, at least for a while. I hit up Croatan, hoping to aviod the crowd, but it was definately very busy. All of the guys I talked to (usually the guys that I screw up their waves, to apologize) they were all really nice about it. Red flags were up, so it took care of a good bit of the "extreme" kids from Arkansas who wanna surf out back with the big boys. I don't really have an issue with them getting stoked, but sometimes mixing them and angry locals don't mix.

All in all, it was great. Everyone was having tons of fun. Everyone was out hootin' and hollering when a big set rolled through. I got a lot of waves in on both boards.

And I tried Bullfrog sunscreen. A bit disappointed. I kept reading all this "apply once for all day" and I did twice and I'm feeling a bit burned... I had really high expectations though, it doesn't feel greasy at all, and I'm not that burned.

And speaking of jellyfish lately, I got stung today by one of the ones that I have been told will take blood, luckily it didn't want mine. Got me good on the back of the knee though, so I took a wave in and took a break. Actually, I surfed that wave in great, good bottom turned, tapped the lip, another solid leaning bottom turn and slid out the tail on the top.

[Adrenaline Fueled]

Newbie grom reporting in:

Had a great dawn session today! Really beautiful. After very little sleep, five of us (Four total groms and one experienced surf dude who acted as our guide and mentor) made our way down to a spot on the south coast of Wales (I don't know what the policy is for naming the spots you go to; I'd hate to ruin what was may be a little known spot by announcing it to the world wide web. To play it safe, if it doesn't have a specific surf report on magicseaweed.com and hasn't been mentioned on the forums as far as I can see, I wont name the spot. Better safe then sorry, eh?).

Anyway, after an hours drive, we reached our destination at around 4.45am. It was raining, it was cold, and we were all hyped up and ready to play. We charged down to the beach to be greeted by some monster waves. Even the experienced surfer was strugling to make it out. It was mental, with powerful waves breaking right onshore. What with an extremely nasty undercurrent and one particular moment that for a split second frightened the crap out of me... well, it was no place for inexperienced surfers. Definitely not the place for my brand new board either! So, quite gutted, we headed for the cars.

The search was now on for a suitable spot. After checking out Tenby and another spot and finding nothing, we finally struck gold, thanks to our mentors exceptional knowledge of the area.

It was a gorgeous spot, quite a walk down to the beach, but really beautiful. And that's where I finally got to give my new board a proper surf! It wasn't anything that would have you expreienced pro's crying with joy, but it was a grom's paradise. The waves were still fairly big (to me) at the break, and made me realise just how badly I need to improve my duck diving, but I still managed to make it to the back and ride in some lovely overheads.

To sum up this long, garbled post, I had a really great time there. I learnt a lot, got to know my new board , and most importantly of all, had a good time with good friends. To me, that's what surfing is all about. Really really can't wait to go out again!

[iomarti]

grom.... didn't you say you were 20 or am i gettin that wrong?

[CheeZee]

hey all

just got back from a blown out sunday at Saunton ! .. i am learning that somedays it might just be better to leave the board in the car and play dune jumping instead ! .
Saunton was blown out and choppy but fun all the same untill your eyes get nuked by all the extra spray ...and after dragging my boy out of the backwash and out of the path of marauding windsurfers for an hour i thought .. " yeh , that'll do " !! .
A good day for all kite surfers and windys but other than watching them.. dune jumping turned into the sensible option for fun ( you would have loved it today kitey ) .

" now sat on my back doorstep listening to massive attack and staring at one of sweetest low, bright and nearly full-moon's ever

oh and whoever is holding my board scraper to ransome ... my boy moaned at me for using his plastic ruler to scrape my board ..so i owe you one

peace and love all .. CheeZer

[Adrenaline Fueled]

grom.... didn't you say you were 20 or am i gettin that wrong?

Erm... yeah.... why?

[kitesurfer]

Awesome day yesterday here on the southcoast. 25-30kts of cross shore wind, sun and 3ft swell hitting southbourne. Kitesurfed for 5hrs and caught a stack of waves. Head high on the sets. Feeling quite sore this morning as the shore break was vicious, getting caught in it resulted in you being spat back up and onto the beach.

[iomarti]

oh, only because I've always understood the word grom to mean a surfer under the age of 16 or thereabouts.... a kid, basically.

[Adrenaline Fueled]

oh, only because I've always understood the word grom to mean a surfer under the age of 16 or thereabouts.... a kid, basically.

Oh, my bad! Sorry, I'd always taken it to mean a beginner, but you're right. Turns out i'm just a newbie... or is it a kook?

[drowningbitbybit]

Oh, my bad! Sorry, I'd always taken it to mean a beginner, but you're right. Turns out i'm just a newbie... or is it a kook?

Who cares? Sounds like you had a great time, which is the only thing that counts

Me, I didnt surf all weekend (one for the kitesurfers methinks)
Gonna be a flat spell once this bit of swell runs out, so looking like the weekend of the mini-meet is gonna be the next time for me.

[iomarti]

yeh yeh - who cares it's just words! enjoy the surf

[Adrenaline Fueled]

Gonna be a flat spell once this bit of swell runs out

It's awful isn't it? I've been watching the swell charts, crying into my coffee. Damn you, you evil non-swell!!

[Broosta]

Had a rubbish surf yesterday , used my 2/1mm shorty only cos my summer fullsuit is knackered and its too hot for my 5/3. It seemed just about warm enough but due to the fact my brain and body went wierd afterwards I deduce I was in fact pretty fkn cold! -Anyway, 1-2ft (being generous really) peaky and very short 'rides'.

[Dec]

argh, can't surf it's windblown and mahoosive


Hopefully it will be downgraded from 11.5ft 29mph winds

I don't really want to go out and die this week so I am staying home

[PapaW]

Getting a bit sick of surfing 3ft chop with no power at the moment.... still its almost all gone now. I shouldn't complain. Just there is a lack of choice in North Devon... Roll on Winter.

[CheeZee]

" right stuff this ! .. whos up for putting a business plan together to get a wave-rider thingy me bob pool complex built in the south west ? !!

[Laguna]

Been having an awsome summer so far, been surfing nearly everyday for the last 5 weeks. Surfing anything from 1ft to 5ft. There was a flat period in between which lasted a week, really felt down at that time.
Happy Surfing