Later in life beginners

[dtc]

Not a new article, but I thought some older surfers might recognise some of themselves in this:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/ ... lcolm-knox

Looking for inspiration? read 'kook'. Great book about learning to surf at an older age.

Saw a book in an (Australian) bookshop the other day called "Taking the Drop: Life is for living, whatever your age" which is written by 4 x 40yr+ women who decide to learn to surf. I read about 30 pages (while waiting for my wife to pick yet another tedious literary award winner). Anyway, didnt seem like great prose but certainly had a lot of examples that learner surfers go through - frustration, being scared, injuries, loss of confidence, surfing into english backpackers who just werent paying attention and were in the wrong place ... It also had some girly stuff about divorce and feelings. Still, it might be worth having a look at if you are that demographic (older learner surfer). Can't find any reviews about the book on line, which is a bit odd.

[312T4]

ahahah!
Thanks dtc, I can see myself! (even if i'm still younger..)
And now I'm thinking about surf clubs..

I saw the book you'r talking about and i was close to buy it.. but at the end I ordered this one online:
http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/Kook-Pe ... nfirmation

can't wait

ps- tomorrow I'll be surfing!! yessssss

[stein68]

used to surf when i was 16 gave away at 19, used to catch train to Geelong then bus to Torquay before I had a car. I loved it now I'm turning 45 this year and have a 12 year old son who loves surfing.
So I'm getting back into it, just need to get a little fitter , going to byy a Mini Mal this month.

[312T4]

I find that watching and watching surf videos, and tutorials, is very useful. Even going back and re-watch basic stuff can help make things clear.
...waiting for some decent waves..

[dtc]

...waiting for some decent waves..

check out middle of next week

[kree8or]

I turned 40 this year and have been bodyboarding for around 2 years. (i used to do it reguarly in my 20's but moved away from the coast).I've decided this year I'm going to start longboarding
I'm going to Bude (in cornwall ) in the summer and am going to have some lessons, till then I'll keep sliding around on my belly in whatever conditions the Solent deems to serve up

[IB_Surfer]

Well, on a parallel thought, I just turned 47 and have noticed my agility and endurance are less but my ability is more. I will never do airs lol but I still do 2 to 3 hour go-uts and do double go-outs while on vacation.

[312T4]

@dtc
yes.. but the cyclone ruined everything.. there are warming not to enter the water..
also there's some N wind coming..
arrggg
I may have to wait till monday..

[312T4]

warnings, sorry

[312T4]

I finally managed to ride a 5ft wave!
I knew I could do that, but because of too many people around -better surfers- and mistakes, I didn't do it till last monday!
wow, what a rush!
I was also able to exit before it broke. Now, this is not joke. This is not natural. As a beginner, you just ride all you can till the beach.. you have to teach yourself to think, watch the wave and react.
So, it's a huge step for me. In fact, the wave after that, forgot it and I got smashed
But doesn't matter!
I did it! I can do it again!
Can't wait.

[jaffa1949]

Glad to hear you got a warming from ignoring the warnings. A good size decent wave a woot for each foot
It seems now that even though Queensland had genuine cyclonic swells and the east coast of Australia had surf its entire length, the dire warnings of dangerous surf conditions was broadcast even for places that did not show a wave.
IMO this is the nanny state in action, the call is impossible for broadcasters to make as if they said it was surfable and some wannabee drowns they'd be held accountable!
But calling minute surfs as dangerous well, that encourages a wannabee to think they are better than they are. Hmmm what to do. Media silence except for boating predictions which are lifesaving.

[312T4]

Hi, since the cyclone hit some weeks ago, up here in the South East QLD we had a consistent 1m to 2m swell from E SE.
I went out 5 times but I'm a bit down now.
I can say that I can catch 5ft waves (and I mean I can pop up on top of that scary hill and then ride it) but I realized that this scenario is still out of my league.

First - the bigger the waves, the better the surfers around me = less chance to enjoy the session

Second- too many white water moving around, too strong currents, too many time having to cope with bigger sets that don't give you the chance to just relax and be safe

Third- I don't have the skills to exit them whenever I want, how I want = ending up in the impact zone and be dangerous for myself and others

I don't know if I've been too full of myself or if it's just a normal phase.

Now I need to go back to my small 2ft scenario and try some new things. I'm trying to be able to carve left and right.. I'm not far.. just need... 10 hours in the water?? = 3 months!! at least..

[dtc]

Now I need to go back to my small 2ft scenario and try some new things. I'm trying to be able to carve left and right.. I'm not far.. just need... 10 hours in the water?? = 3 months!! at least..

You now know what you can do. Pushed yourself. Now go back to having fun!

I'm the same - anything much more than overhead and I know I will spend more time being tense than having fun, and the whitewater from the big waves is just too much hassle to bother with (esp with a longboard). So I usually just try to find somewhere smaller - in a corner or behind a headland - and enjoy myself.

I always think the best session is one where the biggest waves of the day are about 1/2 ft bigger than the ones you know you are comfortable catching. You get to at least try to improve, but can have some warm up waves, fun waves and then a few to push the skills. And you dont spend your time struggling.

Maybe I'm just too old to want to push myself too hard. Or maybe I'm just lazy

[esonscar]

Head high, glassy and gentle offshore. . . awesome fun.

[Hoody]

Hi 312T4. I say don't stop chasing the 5 ft waves, but I hear your pain.
SE Queensland looks out of control for crowd factor. Try a few different spots, drive south a bit, and pick your days.
I started about a year ago aged 43, and within about 6 months my main concern was that I would hurt someone else, not me. Same thing enough skill to be dangerous. I stopped surfing the point breaks around Byron (yeah I know what crowds are). On any half decent day the real surfers are out in force. I figure theyve earnt those waves and can have them. I mainly chase beach breaks now. Not long rides but a hell of a lot more take off spots, less people and most of them are not in front of the take off area. Point breaks like the pass are hopeless, people up and down the line everywhere.
I figure riding the board isn't the hardest bit to learn, its making the takeoff. So thats the conditions I chase.
On a fuller tide the beach breaks aren't that scary and the water is deep enough for the many wipeouts. Another trick that worked today in 5 to 6 ft surf was to go out with some mates. 4 of us found a nice take off, and even though there wouldve been 30 guys up and down the beach we were left alone, no one paddled over to compete for the little peak we were working. Probably cause our little spot looked to crowded with the four of us.

Keep trying mate. Making the takeoff then racing down a clean 5-6 ft wave is pretty hard to beat in life.

[greg2935]

I turned 40 this year and have been bodyboarding for around 2 years. (i used to do it reguarly in my 20's but moved away from the coast).I've decided this year I'm going to start longboarding
I'm going to Bude (in cornwall ) in the summer and am going to have some lessons, till then I'll keep sliding around on my belly in whatever conditions the Solent deems to serve up

Don't forget Widemouth, its just south of Bude and can be a lot nicer as its more exposed! Was in crooklets Saturday, fun waves!

Greg

[312T4]

Thanks for the advises, guys! really appreciated.

Yes i'm keen to try beach breaks but I'd like to go there with some mates so that they can tell me few things.
You know, I don't have surf culture. I see 'danger' signs everywhere and I want to have fun, not see the doctor. I'm reading a lot, but when you are in the water it's pretty different.
There's a lot to learn. Step by step.
I dream about a week at the beach.
.. this surf thing guys.. it's amazing!

[jaffa1949]

312T4 , I have a couple of questions that might help me to help you.

How capable are you at swimming, are you confident enough to body surf or boogey board in the flags or patrolled surf area?

I don't think you need to join a Surf Club but I would certainly have yarn with some of the lifeguards in regard to recognizing rips and hazards in the surf! Once you learn to read that the beach breaks become a little more user friendly.


BTW wherever there is a point break there is a chance of an opposing direction beach break a little up the beach

Now back to why I asked about swimming and boogey boards, just going out and stooging around learning timing and about using rips and being dumped and wiped out , and body surfing your way in!

Try all facets of surfing and base it on fun.
I still body surf ride a mat or a boogey board, don't get hung up about any of them use them as playthings to enhance your understanding of the surf and your longboard sessions will get better and better!

[dtc]

I don't think you need to join a Surf Club but I would certainly have yarn with some of the lifeguards in regard to recognizing rips and hazards in the surf! Once you learn to read that the beach breaks become a little more user friendly.

Another useful source is 'Dr Rip' (who deals not just with rips but with all the things to look for at a beach) - check out

http://www.scienceofthesurf.com/multimedia.html (which has a number of videos and links to articles, also see his facebook page)

and he has a very good book if you want to buy:

http://www.scienceofthesurf.com/book.html

Most of his stuff is for swimmers rather than surfers, but its all just as valid from a safety perspective. He is Australian based but a beach is a beach.

[nottyR6]

This is a great thread. I dont have any surf buddies either, the couple I know have been surfing since they jumped out the pram and dont bother unless its offshore and barreling - at which point I try and give up or just head somewhere else and cut out the depressing bit! I aspire to that level but am realistic where I am at the moment; stuck with a board thats big enough to get me into a wave easily but is then too big to duckdive under big waves.

The smallest board in my quiver of 3 was bought on a whim and I have only used it once although it looks like the right board to step down to when I'm ready. I'm starting to get used to the Firewire which is a chunky board but feels great when I'm up.

Favorite day at the moment is about 2ft with as little offshore wind as possible, days like this always have bigger sets that are great fun if your confidence has been buoyed by a good session. I just wish the ocean would deliver these days all the time

So I guess I am giving the same story; frustratingly slow but there is progress. Definately the main area for me to work on is not once I'm up, its the bits before: The art of wave timing, pop-up properly (hands low down looking down the wave). Rips i'm learning to love. Taking my time warming up before getting in, its a cracking excuse to have a better look at what the waves are doing, where. Learning to paddle and turn quickly at the last second or paddling out towards a wave and sitting and spinning to catching a peeling shoulder.

Did someone mention 10hrs in 3 months? More like 10hrs a week to have got to this point over the last 4 months, 2 years occasionally previous to that. But then I am a little bit slow..