
Well.. it's everything everyone's described so far.
Of course it has it's commercial 'arses out' side but then that sells and gets people like Kelly, Andy and Taj, bless them, missioning around the world with a million mini wannabe's following in their footsteps.
It can also be a way of increasing your attraction to beauty, a way of feeling humble and little again. Like it puts you and the world in it's place.
It's absolutely both. I love the technical sportyness of it. And I love how not everyone can give it a go or stick to it after years of falling off and trying. It's this special gift reserved for only a few hardy souls...

I love how its sooo social yet soo loner as well. Peaceful and frantic. Exhilerating and completely guttering. Joy and pain.
Surfing is the winner at the end of the day! Fo Shore
