I was sitting at the line up waiting for a wave, when suddenly this uuuge wave (well, 6ft maybe
) came in... so I paddeld towards the wave with my only desire to get out of the break zone... but gettin closer to the this monster I got this stupid idea still beein able to make it on the wave 
so I turned arround and paddeld as fast as possible.... not fast enough but...
I stud up to early and was pretty much standing on the lid, but way too slow...
So the wave first pulled down my board, so I had something to land on with my head when following it... and then pulled under just protectin my head, the wave smashed my board in my back...
Nearly drown (well u know the feeling
) I reached the surface to realise that I broke my boards tail as well...
What a wave
3 premiers for me...
gettin pulled down from the lid
hittin the board twice in one wave
and breakin my board...
The good thing... Im in Bali so the board repair is cheap as... but my back hurts that bad, and I have just 2 days left
but again, Im on Bali painkiller are cheap as
Hope u had a better day
