so yesterday i went with my girlfrined to get her a new board, and since ive been grounded from mine since i got it at xmas it was the first time i went out. so here it is, and were freezing (60 degrees water 63 degrees air) with no wetsuit tryin to surf in like 2 foot waves. yeah, well those waves werent carrying my ass anywhere.. every time i paddled to catch the wave i wouldnt move and if i did try to get up i ate the floor. i got up to my feet once and then the board stopped.. i rode like 5 inches then it sank. so.. yeah. im 0 for 1 when it comes to this whole surfing thing.. where do you find motivation when the going gets tough?
oh yeah, this was my FIRST TIME