hawaiian surf

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

i just wanted to say that the surf in hawaii is not perfect. a lot of people seem to think it is. im not saying its bad though, im sure its better than a lot of places. when its flat on the south shore, thats usually it for me and most other town surfers. i dont mind taking a little drive to the east point of the island to surf the 3-6 foot trade wind swell on sandy beach when its there(choppy, but better than the 1-2ft south swell), but other than that i stay in town. i wouldnt think of going to the north shore to surf 30 footers in the winter, and i doubt most of you would either. besides, the pros with their fat heads who think the north shore belongs to them even though im more local to that area than they are since a lot of them are from other islands, well they wouldnt allow it. if you watched real life im a pro surfer on mtv you know what i mean. one of the guys they did the show on and his friend teamed up jumped some kid who didnt even want to fight them.
the temperature is good, but theres also a lot of other things like sharks, sea urchins and reef to bother you. i dont know about the sea urchins in other places but there are some places here where theres almost a sea urchin for every suare foot (alamoana area). i saw a shark last week which was kinda cool thinking about it later on, but in the moment even though it was just a 3-4 foot reef shark, i nearly pissed my pants. the town surfers are usually pretty cool, but some of the public high schoolers are not.
heres a site if you want to check the surf here, and maybe feel better about the flat surf where you are.
http://www.surf-news.com/
it says the east shore is 2-4, and if you look at a map of oahu youll see the east shore is actually more like a north east shore. the beaches around there i have little experience of. they are usually surrounded by areas with hawaiian flags flying in peoples yards. the original hawaiian flag. lets just say this means white man stay out. i learned my lesson in high school.
i also dont have any surfer friends, so im always out there by myself. so i guess that might be another reason i dislike it here.
im planning on going to school in oregon, and i also plan on bringing my board, and i look forward to it. its a shame though that my board shorts will go to waste, huh? since its too cold and ill have to get a wetsuit.

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

another thing on my mind is the reef. it makes it impossible to catch a ride to the beach. i guess we have shorter rides here? i keep reading about how people are so impressed catching a wave all the way to the beach, which never happens here unless you have a 10 ft board and are laying on it riding a 6 inch wave.

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

AND the breaks usually the length of a football field off shore. sorry, next time ill put it all in one post.

[freaky_welsh_chick]

you do know you can just go back and edit your posts...

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

oh snap