Later in life beginners

[Cruiser]

I'm 44 and I've started learning to surf a year ago. Initially I didn't have any ambitions about what level of surfing I wanted to achieve, I just wanted to have fun in the white water after watching my kids learning to surf and thinking why there's more kids learning to surf than adults? - we deserve to have as much fun as them! But I got so hooked, surfing as much as I can, 1 or 2 times a week, watching youtube coaching videos with my son who got hooked as well and perfect longboarding sessions like this one (my favourite I could just watch it all day, when not surfing)

So now I aspire to be a proper longboarder!
The age doesn't matter.
What matters is how surfing makes me feel:) Pure joy!

[HaoleKook]

I'm starting at 44. Half of my motivation is I was told surfing is good for upper body / core. The other half is that I live a mile from Waikiki beach

[buxtert]

Yessah, same here.

After 3 years of bodyboarding I wanted to be in the water on every free time occasion. Bodyboarding requiers 3 feet waves cause I pack some meat. And 3 feet or higher is scarse in my country.

At 43 I took 5 surf lessons. Bought an old and battered 9 feet softtop. Went out once a week and enjoyed the hell out. Thought it was time for a tad more performance. Bought an old 8'4 magnum bic/tahe and enjoyed the cold north sea even more and paddle now out 2 x a week. Surfed shorebreak quite a long time before really paddling out of insecureness I guess. Still learning. Now angling the take off, trying to ride a higher line etc. Less anxious too after one year. Committing is everything. Still a thing when it's big (4 feet and higher and shallow), especially when it is not clean and low tide is jackin up water in the blink of an eye close to shore...

Still loving and learning how to get down the line, getting more speed, better posture, foot work etc. Wetsuit repair, gopro surf and mouth mount all add up to the fun and new skillset. Still loads to learn though. Unbelievable what to look for in the water, execute in a sec and the need off fysical requirements all on 1 moment.

And no day, one wave is the same! The sea changes every 15 minutes or so. Mother natures cooperates in some sort of way, but never the full yard. Here in Holland no point breaks, close outs most of the time and strong on shore winds.

Long rides require abillities. Working on that!

Let the wipe outs make you a better person! They can cleanse the soul, humble you and point out failure. You're only human after all!

[oldmansurfer]

Wiping out may make you feel humble now but it's a part of surfing and unless you don't challenge yourself you will continue to wipeout no matter how good you get. The best surfers have some of the most horrendous wipeouts because they are pushing their limits in challenging surfing conditions.

[buxtert]

I try to embrace the thought of prolly going to wipe out, late take off you all know way better then me, but the mind says, screw it, just try and make it happen and the reward is catching it, standing and riding the darn wave...

[312T4]

Welcome to everyone.

I've written before here and I just want to share an update to keep motivation up for everyone.

Like you I'm a later in life beginner. I started 10 years ago at 35 by chance and got hooked.
I surf once a week when I can and for that I have to drive 1 to 2 hours.
So, I'm also a weekend surfer and a commuter surfer.

The journey has been long nd slow.
I can see that if was in the water few times a week I could have cut my learning curve in half, probably. But anyway.
Before surfing I didn't do much sport and I always had a desk job. So I find it very physically demanding. Basically, I train all week to be fit once in the water.

As for now I have a decent control of the board, I can surf both sides, and I discovered that you have to surf both side on almost every wave. I can walk on my board back and forth, and now I'm trying to get the timing and the technique of the longboard cutback right, to do proper noserides. Sometimes I did it and I have been on the nose with both feet for 1 or 2 seconds.
Getting there.

I live in Oz, near one of the most competitive surfing place on the planet. Getting waves is never easy and as a beginner it was a nightmare.
Now I consider myself somewhere between a beginner and an intermediate surfer. I kind of blend with the average ozy recreational surfer.

So, I'm a living proof that if you love it and keep at it, no matter the difficulties you will progress and will be able to enjoy it more and more.

I wish I could have a video to share, but I have nobody to ask the boring favour to, and my wife always failed to either find me in the water (crowd), or record anything with the camera (she got confused), or be in the right position for a meaningful view. She drives me insane!

Keep it up folks!
cheers

[Naeco78]

Basically, I train all week to be fit once in the water.

I know that feeling Reminds me of my cold water routine. It sucks sometimes but surfing definitely lets me know if i havent kept up with it. Mid 40s
Glad to hear you're keeping the stoke!

[Huck]

I surfed when I was younger, but after 24 years away from it, I started again at age 54. Its not like riding a bike, I struggled to regain some level of proficiency. Now, 13 years later, at my age and circumstances, I am happy to paddle out once or twice a week and catch a few waves. Most of the so cal spots I surf are pretty well populated, so if I get 3 or 4 waves in a couple hours session, with no collisions or bad vibes, I'm doing good.

[Geezer]

Most of the so cal spots I surf are pretty well populated, so if I get 3 or 4 waves in a couple hours session, with no collisions or bad vibes, I'm doing good.

Thats brutal!

[Huck]

Thats brutal!

Haha yes but that's been my reality for several years. Once I got back into surfing at age 54, I knew I would have to adopt a mindset that would allow me to enjoy myself, despite the fact that most of the surf spots I grew up surfing as a kid are now very crowded with young aggressive surfers that have little patience or respect for older guys in the lineup. I decided that my goal would be to catch at least 3 waves each session, and try to avoid conflicts and collisions.

It can be a challenge, and I haven't always been successful. In one case where a younger guy dropped in on me and ended basically in my lap, he tried to start a fight with the encouragement of his buddies, but a complete stranger paddled up and said "I saw the whole thing, he did nothing wrong, if you have a problem take it up with me", and the guy backed off.

I have also had a few collisions, I have been on both sides of that equation. And a few bad vibe scenarios, that can also ruin my morning. So I really have to factor in lack of collisions, conflicts, and bad vibes as part of a successful session. 3 waves is doing good in a crowd, and unfortunately, in this scenario the best I can hope for is to keep my hand in the game, I have little opportunity to work on improving my surfing in any meaningful way. Maybe someday on a surf trip to an uncrowded destination I will have that chance. But right now, I really strive to keep my hand in play, because to give up at my age, is to give up for good. And I love surfing too much, I'm not ready to give it up!!

This is me in the pic, dropped in on by another surfer who burned me on this wave. Typical stuff in L. A., where this pic was taken.

[Huck]

Great thread by the way, love reading all these comments!

[Kit]

Me too. I started in early 40's, now 50. I'm female. I took my kids for a surf lesson and made the comment that I was really sad I had never learnt to surf. The instructor said anyone can surf, I have an 80 year old who surfs, join the lesson. So I did and I was hooked. I can feel it more the next day now I have hit half a century and wish I had stared younger as I think I could have been quite good if I had started at a young age! But I do enough to have fun. Can catch a green on the days I manage to get outback! I tend to go out of season in North Cornwall, and have done Portugal too. I don't surf enough and miss it when I don't. I have just come back from a very cold weekend. I just think its good for your soul and calls you. Glad to see the NHS are now prescribing it!

[OlegLupusov]

Thats brutal!

Haha yes but that's been my reality for several years. Once I got back into surfing at age 54, I knew I would have to adopt a mindset that would allow me to enjoy myself, despite the fact that most of the surf spots I grew up surfing as a kid are now very crowded with young aggressive surfers that have little patience or respect for older guys in the lineup. I decided that my goal would be to catch at least 3 waves each session, and try to avoid conflicts and collisions.

It can be a challenge, and I haven't always been successful. In one case where a younger guy dropped in on me and ended basically in my lap, he tried to start a fight with the encouragement of his buddies, but a complete stranger paddled up and said "I saw the whole thing, he did nothing wrong, if you have a problem take it up with me", and the guy backed off.

I have also had a few collisions, I have been on both sides of that equation. And a few bad vibe scenarios, that can also ruin my morning. So I really have to factor in lack of collisions, conflicts, and bad vibes as part of a successful session. 3 waves is doing good in a crowd, and unfortunately, in this scenario the best I can hope for is to keep my hand in the game, I have little opportunity to work on improving my surfing in any meaningful way. Maybe someday on a surf trip to an uncrowded destination I will have that chance. But right now, I really strive to keep my hand in play, because to give up at my age, is to give up for good. And I love surfing too much, I'm not ready to give it up!!

This is me in the pic, dropped in on by another surfer who burned me on this wave. Typical stuff in L. A., where this pic was taken.

Welcome! Where do you usually surf? I wouldn't even dare Malibu or some other spots. Got a bunch of collisions myself. However, not recently. One per 10 sessions or so.

[elijah86]

Hey there! It's fantastic that you've taken up surfing and found a new passion. Age is just a number, and it's never too late to start something you love. Remember, progress takes time, and consistency is key. Embrace the challenge and enjoy the learning process. With dedication and practice, you'll build the strength and skills to ride those waves like a pro!

[rsumner79]

I started at 43 (this Spring). I was able to stand up in white water pretty quick. I've inched closer to the break and been fairly successful. I can get up on 1-2 ft waves on my longboard. When it gets to 3 ft on surf reports I find it's actually 3+ at the beach and I'm just not comfortable with that yet. I'm a bit stalled at the moment because unless those conditions are perfect I'm just not comfortable paddling out past break mostly because I don't yet trust wave selection and don't want to perl on a 5 footer.

Being older my time is less so I sometimes find myself trying to get out there even in conditions that aren't great for me and it never ends well. That was the situation tonight actually. It's a bit disheartening because I'd love to get out past the break and get down the line but I'm just not there yet.

I feel like I need to practice catching 1-3 ft green waves at an angle as opposed to what I'm doing now which is headed straight to the shore then turning. I feel like if Ican figure that out then larger waves won't be so intimidating because I won't need to worry so much about how steep they are. That's just my guess but like a lot of people I'm kind of stuck at this level myself.

[jaffa1949]

Great news and great start! A good wave size to enhance learning.
A few thoughts about pearling ( nosediving) wipeouts and various falls etc, they’re all part of a normal day‘s surfing sometimes more sometimes less.
A few people will chime in with techniques that help you have less of those things!
If you are dropping to the bottom of the wave and turning; if you can manage that and not be just dropping with the whitewater that will evolve into to the vital basic wave skill, the bottom turn.
Angled take offs are an in between step but good value to get you down the line in the early days.
Getting out the back skills require reading the beach, noting the rips and way the waves break, noting where the surfers use those features to make the paddle out easier You have the age and wisdom to understand how to learn from watching make that a skill too.
Have absolute fun too it is worth it!

[oldmansurfer]

It's too late now rsummer79, you're hooked to surfing. Can't just turn away and do something easier because you have found the pleasure of surfing. Surfing isn't easy to learn. It takes time and out of the three parts you need for surfing you only control two of them one is yourself the surfer and two is the board which you have. But the third part is the waves and you have no control over them. For each person there is a limit to what kind of waves they can surf. However the more conditions that you can handle the more often you can surf. You can't rush the surf. It comes and goes at it's own pace but perhaps you can learn to predict when the waves are suitable for you to be sure you are at the beach at those times. Many people use surf forecasting services (I don't) but others may chime in on what is good or if not create a new separate post about it. What I do is drive by the beach daily just a mile from my house. Is there surf instruction available where you are? Perhaps that would be one way to approach it. There are many skills needed to learn surfing including how and where to paddle out and where to line up besides how to catch and ride a wave. If you have a specific problem you want resolved you can create a new separate post in the SURF CHAT portion of this forum and hopefully we can help you.

[SDKookatSanO]

I started surfing at 61 (I know that sounds crazy). After a near death heart issue I decided to go for it once I recovered. I live in San Diego and signed up for 4 lessons. The first one my surfing instructor pushed me into I was up and riding and decided this was my new sport. I had no clue how much the instructor did for me in that lesson!
After 3 more lessons a week apart, I thought I was ready for green water ripping (yup, hilarious). So, out I go and I can't catch a single white water or the smallest bit of dignity. More lessons and demanding that instructors stop cheering me and start telling me what I'm doing wrong. Finally, I could paddle out, get beyond the smallest reform whites and pick up larger whites with some power and get up and riding on my own. For me that was a huge thing and it took me quite a few months. From there, to green water...so different 'cause I was back to not being able to catch anything because I just couldn't seem to get in the right spot When I did catch a face wave I was so wiped from paddling my butt off to get it that I forgot to angle or turn.
By the time I learned how to look, turn and ride down the line, I had pretty much figured out where a peak was and which direction was best for that wave and my location on it. It's been 3 years of falling, getting a little injured, getting ragdolled, splitting a board in half and having SO MUCH FUN along the way. I'm a 64 year old kook and happy to say it. If you've ever thought "I wanna do this"...just go F'ing do it!