by oldmansurfer » Fri Sep 15, 2023 7:33 pm
When surfing at Hanalei, which is one of the best right breaking waves on the island, back in the day, if it was overhead to double overhead it was seriously crowded. It wasn't big enough to keep the wanabe surfers from coming out and sitting in the lineup. Going up to triple overhead was a marked drop in the number of surfers in the lineup and every one of them would be catching waves, made up mostly of just the guys who I surfed with a lot while learning to surf. So triple overhead was a treat as you were going to catch lots of waves. The only time I surfed there alone it was around 5 or more times overhead and initially there were 6 guys out but they declined to surf and went in.
I had a VW camper van and even camped on the beach at Hanalei so I could be the first guy out in the morning. But even though it was still dark enough that you couldn't see the waves there were 6 guys out. I think they were the same 6 guys who were out on that big day. Lots of fear with those bigger days but there was always the fear of not surfing and regretting it for the rest of my life. So it was like maybe I will die but if I don't go out then I will regret it for the rest of my life.
I hear that these days Hanalei has more than 100 surfers out at triple overhead and that holds true for the waves at the breaks I usually go to near my home. Huge crowds if it's nice and triple overhead. The nice thing about my home area is there are often multiple peaks that one can chose so even if it's crowded you can find a peak with 10 or less surfers. I like stormy surf that discourages everyone from going out.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.