Surf Books

[oldmansurfer]

I just read Bob McTavish Stoked! by Bob McTavish. Pretty decent reading. McTavish spent a lot of time sleeping at beaches, in cars, under cars, on floors, park picnic tables, surfboard shaping room floors, other peoples houses and just about anywhere he could think of to sleep including stowing away on a boat cruise to Hawaii.

[Slaya7]

Barbarian Days by William Finnegan...I have read it over and over since I got it and it's just great writing

[oldmansurfer]

Barbarian Days by William Finnegan...I have read it over and over since I got it and it's just great writing

I particularly enjoy it because he was a surfer who prior to deciding to become a writer attained a high level of skill surfing. He had the experiences of a surfer like many that I grew up with and the writing skills of a writer. All the other books were written by writers who became surfers or chose to write about surfing or surfers who wanted to record their memories. I do enjoy the different perspective books like "Board" give as it is so foreign to my experience in a way quite similar to this forum gives me a whole different perspective on surfing

[oldmansurfer]

I just read Kanga which I thought was a biography of Ian Cairns but it is about the goings on in contest surfing back in those days including the rise of professional surfing of which Ian Cairns was instrumental

[BoMan]

Now reading this and enjoying it a lot..
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Barbarian-Days- ... 1472151399.

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Barbarian Days would make an excellent movie. Hope it happens some day!

[oldmansurfer]

I think Barbarian Days would make a good movie too but it would be extremely difficult to make.... maybe a CGI movie?

[Chelseapaul11]

Hi there

I'm new here but likewise I do love a good surfing book.

Two I can highly recommend are:
"Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan
"Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell" by Chaz Smith.

Pretty sure both are competitively priced on Wordery

Enjoy

[Baditobrandino]

I’ve been searching for a book I read when i was a teenager. It was fiction and it was old. Maybe 1960’s? I recall one part where the boy tugs on a policeman’s coat, rubs the belly of a fat guy, kisses a pretty girl and on adrenaline grabs his board with them all after him and runs to the shore break and paddles out with a huge grin and his heart beating out of his chest.
I’m probably getting some details wrong but I’ve looked for this book for years and nothing. Originally I had checked it out of a library. Thanks in adavance for any insight.

[jaffa1949]

OKAY?
Good luck, self isolation where you‘re at?

[oldmansurfer]

I just read Life of Brine by Phil Jarrett It’s well written but Phil’s life seemed boring considering all he did.