this dude is on a shortboard and makes them surfable.
my focus is on the weak ones. cause that is what we usually get here/ oldmansurfer told me they were surfable but you know i just couldnt untill i noticed i can after surfing back to back. the thing is how do you keep going when they are so weak? the dude on the video seems to force himself into riding. what is the exact technique? ofcourse from looking obviously to the video. but i like some theory here cause surfing made me think its easy by looking when its not.
bigger waves are ok to me. they push me better. these small one man.