wave drunk or stoned?!

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

wave drunk or stoned?!

Postby elduderino » Fri Oct 16, 2020 11:08 pm

new member here, followed this site for a few years finally signed up.. thanks for having me.. anyway bit of an odd question, but has anyone spent so long surfing or just being out on the water that you start to feel a little bit drunk or stoned?!

i was out for over 3.5 hours yesterday until dark, (a regular session for me would be max 1.5 hrs) i didn’t talk to anyone, the waves were pretty constant so i didn’t really think/day dream about anything the whole
time just pure concentration on the sea, and i came home really zoned out and slept like a baby. I woke up this morning and can’t really remember a whole lot about it!!
i dunno if i went deep into a wave meditation or what?!
anyone else had days like that?
elduderino
New Member
 
Posts: 2
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2020 10:57 pm

Re: wave drunk or stoned?!

Postby oldmansurfer » Sat Oct 17, 2020 12:49 am

There have been times when I was in a different mood surfing. One time I recall I was surfing a big right and finally figured out how to get in the tube in these double overhead tubing waves. I got a deep tube ride and the tube was huge for the size of the wave. It was so enormous I was riding fully standing up with my arms straight out to the sides trying to touch both the lip and the wall and not able to touch either. I was just cruising along and it was like I became extremely calm and relaxed and it kept going and going for a bit but after a while that changed because there was a pile of rocks that stuck out of the water in the general direction I was headed and I could not see them due to the curvature of the wave and how deep I was in the tube. I went from a zen state to a hyperaware state.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
User avatar
oldmansurfer
Surf God
 
Posts: 8193
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:10 pm
Location: Kauai

Re: wave drunk or stoned?!

Postby BoMan » Sat Oct 17, 2020 4:09 am

My attention wanders during the flat spells between sets. I watch seagulls stealing fish from the pelicans. I notice what boards other people are riding. I feel the kelp gradually winding around my feet. And then I take one on the head! :bang:
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
User avatar
BoMan
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1464
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:19 am
Location: Napa Valley, USA

Re: wave drunk or stoned?!

Postby jaffa1949 » Sat Oct 17, 2020 3:45 pm

Depending on the temperature, hot very sunny, = hyperthermia and or slight onset sunstroke!
cold hypothermia, frozen brain!
Long time since last meal = low blood sugar level,hypoglycemia
.Very good session , overwhelmed by endorphins, change of consciousness !
Careful surfing is known to be addictive! :lol: :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
User avatar
jaffa1949
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 8179
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:01 am
Location: The super secret point breaks of Ober Österreich ( how many will notice the change)


Similar topics

Return to Surf Chat