by surferbee » Sun Sep 23, 2018 6:43 am
Getting comfortable in bigger surf just takes time and practice. I recently started teaching a friend to surf, and I noticed that what he thinks of as a big wave is waaaaaay smaller than what I think of as a big wave. I mean, he's scratching to get outside of it, and I'm sitting pretty as it rolls through while I wait for a bigger wave to ride. I don't think he's a coward or I'm a hero or anything, but after spending a lot of time in the water in a range of different conditions I am a lot less freaked out than he is. I am sure I was just as spooked as he is when I was a beginner. And if I went to go surf Mavericks or Pipeline I'm sure I'd be freaking out over waves that other surfers are yawning over.
My point is that your fears are based on your range of experience, and since you don't have a lot of experience you tend to be more fearful. Try the following things and see if it helps:
1. Don't rush to get in the water. Spend at least 15 minutes watching from the beach to figure out where and how the waves are breaking. Are they closing out? Are there outside sets? Can you line up the peak with a landmark visible from the lineup? Are there any surfers in the water that seem to have the break dialed in?
2. Don't rush to get to the peak when you paddle out. Sit off to the side or outside and get comfortable with the conditions. How often are set waves rolling through? Are the sets consistent? Where are other surfers taking off from? Where's that surfer who has it dialed? Can you imagine where you'd want to be when taking off on a wave?
3. Gradually get comfortable catching waves closer to the peak. As long as you're not dropping in on anyone, you can try shoulder hopping or catching the wave further out on the shoulder where the wave is less critical. You can also try angling the drop-in so that you're not going straight down. This will make it easier not to pearl the nose of your board. And, of course, you can always try surfing with a longer board that gets you into the waves sooner to give you more time to get to your feet (if the waves are suitable to that).
4. Can you line yourself up with that landmark you spotted earlier? Good, then hang out there and let a few waves pass you by before you try to get one. When you feel like you're where you need to be and you know what to expect (more or less) from the conditions, then you're ready to catch a wave.
5. Be sure to fully commit! Paddling into a wave without confidence is an easy way to fail. Failing lowers your confidence. Lower confidence leads to more failing. It's a vicious cycle. Instead, commit, commit, commit. If you still fail, laugh it off, then commit again. It's all part of the learning process.
6. If you wipe out, relax. Don't panic. Stay calm. Enjoy it like it's a short, crazy ride at an amusement park. Catch your breath and laugh it off. If you really want to put it in perspective, watch some YouTube vids of guys wiping out on XXL waves like Mavericks, Puerto Escondido, or Shipstearn's. If they can survive those beat downs, then surely you can handle getting tossed by a six-footer, right?
7. If being patient doesn't work for you and watching videos doesn't ease your fears, then go charge some overhead waves, get thrown around a bunch, and then go back to the 4-6ft waves. I guarantee they won't look so bad.
I hope that helps!