Least cool surf injuries

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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby kookRachelle » Fri Sep 01, 2017 5:51 pm

oldmansurfer wrote:You sound a bit accident prone :)


Oh yeah, I am! Though the bike accident was due to something flying into my front wheel so I'm also unlucky!
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby Big H » Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:02 am

Was out the other day....was about 1.5OH and I was on the wave, going down the line top to bottom when the wave sectioned in front of me....I was high waiting for the section so I cut low to skirt the foam and get back on the wave....as I was hitting the bottom of the wave under all the foam, out of the corner of my eye I see a longboard spiralling up into the air out of the middle of the foam.....sure enough it caught me solid on my forehead and knocked me backward cartoon style , feet up in the air clean off my board. Connection was hard enough I touched my head to check for blood and fibreglass fragments. There was neither thankfully.....lucky I didn't get it in the jaw or I'd be laid up another 3 months.

It's a good thing I'm hardheaded...... :)
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby RobSF » Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:11 pm

Speaking of accident prone . . .

accidentProne.jpg
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:49 pm

The thing with the emergency room is that it only shows those who are injured not those who successfully learn to surf without emergency room visits. I had two friends who were both accident prone. One day I saw them both playing with a glass shower door. I had tried to talk them out of their endeavor but was unsuccessful so I knew what was likely to happen. I screamed "Call 911" and my other friends said "Why? is someone injured?" and I answered "No but they will be soon." Only one of them needed an ambulance though.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby kookRachelle » Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:12 am

Big H wrote:Was out the other day....was about 1.5OH and I was on the wave, going down the line top to bottom when the wave sectioned in front of me....I was high waiting for the section so I cut low to skirt the foam and get back on the wave....as I was hitting the bottom of the wave under all the foam, out of the corner of my eye I see a longboard spiralling up into the air out of the middle of the foam.....sure enough it caught me solid on my forehead and knocked me backward cartoon style , feet up in the air clean off my board. Connection was hard enough I touched my head to check for blood and fibreglass fragments. There was neither thankfully.....lucky I didn't get it in the jaw or I'd be laid up another 3 months.

It's a good thing I'm hardheaded...... :)


effing longboards!!! amiright? :lol:
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby Big H » Wed Sep 20, 2017 1:06 am

There was a guy out yesterday morning with a gath.....got in the water same time as me on a mid - rising tide.....the break is a reef break but at the tide level we started at you would have to work hard to hit bottom, though the wave is hollow and breaks pretty fiercely so getting whacked by your board happens.....maybe he didn't know that, never seen him before. Anyway, made me think in higher traffic waves (the day I got hit a few days ago I counted 63 people in the water), made me think that while uncomfortable and a bit kooky to wear in relatively benign waves, maybe he had an injury that needed protection, maybe a past bad experience. Anyhow, made me think it might be a good idea for me sometimes if I keep getting whacked.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby Big H » Wed Sep 20, 2017 1:09 am

kookRachelle wrote:effing longboards!!! amiright? :lol:

I love longboards; I've got three longboards myself, so nothing against longboards or long boarders..........that break is a longboard spot.....waves can be big but they are fat and once on the wave is relatively slow moving......I was on an 8'2" at the time so it was more a case of a learner that was in over their head.....he shouldn't have been out there, still should be inside riding reforms and foam along with about another 30% of the lineup, but at that break it is always like that or worse.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby kookRachelle » Wed Sep 20, 2017 1:24 am

Big H wrote:
kookRachelle wrote:effing longboards!!! amiright? :lol:

I love longboards; I've got three longboards myself, so nothing against longboards or long boarders..........that break is a longboard spot.....waves can be big but they are fat and once on the wave is relatively slow moving......I was on an 8'2" at the time so it was more a case of a learner that was in over their head.....he shouldn't have been out there, still should be inside riding reforms and foam along with about another 30% of the lineup, but at that break it is always like that or worse.


Oh I know... I was kidding.. I ride an 8'6 (barely) myself. I love longboards.
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby Big H » Sat Sep 30, 2017 4:29 am

What a broken jaw looks like 3 hours out of the water. The cuts look like holes from teeth....all of the teeth there were broken. Swelled really nicely.
Hurts to look at it.
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Re: Least cool surf injuries

Postby dtc » Sat Sep 30, 2017 7:43 am

Mmm

How was it when you got back in, in terms of skill level (2-3 months off?) and having the injury in the back of your mind
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