Just had a great day. Decided to skip the new years eve' party and sleep so I could go surf dawn patrol. There hasn't been a swell in a good while despite the great sun that came out for the summer, and today's forecast had a bigger period, so me and a friend decided to risk it.
Woke up around 4:30, got in the water 6:30 and surfed for around 4:30 hours straight! Hasn't done this in a while, my body is all sore (and lightly burnt from the sun). Waves weren't big, guess around 1.5ft-2ft on some not so regular series, but it had a bit of strength, breaking on a shallow sandbar. Me and my friend were the only ones on water for a while, and even later when we went out there were about 7 heads in. Of those, 2 total beginners.
I'm really stoked, I got the closest so far to nailing a small tube. Like, not those full depth tubes, but those tiny "showers" you try to fit yourself inside. I could tuck myself into a couple, just didn't manage to go out and continue the ride, but it was enough to get me really stoked, can't imagine how it's going to feel when I finally complete one (and later who knows, get a big tube
). Wonderful session! There was a dude taking shots on the water, and this time I was one of the few there, so hopefully he didn't point the lens on everyone else besides me like it usually happens 
. I'm waiting to see if any pictures with me pops up on his page, crossing fingers I'll get some cool water shot of myself Another good part of skipping the new years party was to avoid seeing the tourists (and also some people from here) trashing the beach. It was bad enough to see the trash while I was riding the bicycle to the spot I surf, think I'd be in a very bad vibe to see it first hand.. The bright side is that the town hall seems to work well to keep it clean after the party: right as I was coming back the place seemed much cleaner already!
