Looking at the nose of the board when you takeoff

[waikikikichan]

When paddling into the wave and the wave lifting me from behind I saw the nose go under. I responded with 2 more extra strong paddle strokes and putting more weight on the tail in the popup and setting the rail for an immediate turn up the face. It worked like a charm, the nose lifted up and was completely out of danger of pearling.

That shows you reached another step in your surfing level. The confidence to believe in what the wave and board is doing. What you did was "Gun the motor" and it made the nose come up, just like on a speed boat. Beginners usual first natural instinct is to death grab the rails, straighten and stiffen their arms, and yank the head and upper body back. That just kills the speed and jacks up the tail even more up the face.

[Tudeo]

I have that happen too but what I was talking about is a full vertical drop where the wave face is fully perpendicular to the bottom and as you drop down to where the wave transitions from vertical face to flat bottom the nose goes under then if I quickly put pressure on my back foot the nose pops back up.

Ah yes, i had that happen to me too. The trick for me was, first to see what was happening in time and second to brace myself for the sudden deceleration as the nose dives under. Sometimes I can get the nose up again but other times it's too late and I wipeout.

I rather angle my takeoff, and set the rail to steer up the wall first, on steep waves. When the moment is there I'll do my bottom turn. But after having a nasty wipeout that resulted in a whiplash in the neck, I'm very alert to not let the nose catch when on speed.

[Tudeo]

That shows you reached another step in your surfing level.

That's one of the beauties of surfing, even when fitness is sub-optimal because of age, you can still improve. Even at an age of 53 I still have the feeling my best ride is still ahead. Only I'm not sure if it will be on my shortboard..

[oldmansurfer]

I have that happen too but what I was talking about is a full vertical drop where the wave face is fully perpendicular to the bottom and as you drop down to where the wave transitions from vertical face to flat bottom the nose goes under then if I quickly put pressure on my back foot the nose pops back up.

Ah yes, i had that happen to me too. The trick for me was, first to see what was happening in time and second to brace myself for the sudden deceleration as the nose dives under. Sometimes I can get the nose up again but other times it's too late and I wipeout.

I rather angle my takeoff, and set the rail to steer up the wall first, on steep waves. When the moment is there I'll do my bottom turn. But after having a nasty wipeout that resulted in a whiplash in the neck, I'm very alert to not let the nose catch when on speed.

I do a lot of things to keep from pearling however there are some waves where you have no option but to go straight down and turn as soon as you can feel your weight over the board and it is right around there that you need to stomp the tail so it isn't that hard to land with more pressure on your back foot. I love those kind of drops......massive adrenaline rush. I am 63 now and I hope that my best wave is still to come because I have had some awesome waves. You need to keep your mind open and push your limits to let it happen to you. Ultimately however if my best wave is behind me so be it, I am just happy to be still surfing.

[Tudeo]

10 years my senior, respect!

Ultimately however if my best wave is behind me so be it, I am just happy to be still surfing.

That's it for me too, every time I paddle out I feel blessed. Maybe it has something to do it's not so easy to stay fit anymore, that makes every session special?

[oldmansurfer]

10 years my senior, respect!

Ultimately however if my best wave is behind me so be it, I am just happy to be still surfing.

That's it for me too, every time I paddle out I feel blessed. Maybe it has something to do it's not so easy to stay fit anymore, that makes every session special?

Ahh fitness ......well in my old age it isn't that difficult to get fit except finding time and motivation to a certain degree. Then I have all these old man problems that slow me down a bit (a bad knee, back problem, shoulder problem, hip problem) that I didn't have as a youngster. I used to be super flexible having been doing yoga from the age of 12 years old. I was so active that I didn't need to do anything to get or stay fit. Fitness was my normal state. I had incredible breath holding ability also something I never had to try to learn. But all in all I would say the most difficult thing about getting old is that you get out of shape quite rapidly if you don't stay active.

[Tudeo]

all these old man problems that slow me down a bit (a bad knee, back problem, shoulder problem, hip problem)

That's exactly my list too, the accent shifts from one to the other at times. That's basically what I mean with fitness problems, maybe not the correct word? And then there's the lack of energy of not sleeping well at times.

Many people say sports are good for better sleep, but strangely I mainly have troubles sleeping after surfing, even I surf in the early morning so I've got a whole day to recover..

[oldmansurfer]

All my oldman problems are kept in check by staying in shape for the most part but if I don't keep exercising and stretching then it all falls apart. Surfing is the motivation I use to stay in shape.

[Big H]

Time catches up with everyone.....period....


Lung Capacity and Aging

Did you know that the maximum amount of air your lungs can hold—your total lung capacity—is about 6 liters? That is about three large soda bottles.

Your lungs mature by the time you are about 20-25 years old. After about the age of 35, their function declines as you age and as a result, breathing can slowly become more difficult over time.

What Happens?

There are several body changes that happen as you get older that may cause a decline in lung capacity:

Muscle and bone changes

The diaphragm, the large muscle that moves air in and out of the lungs, gets weaker, decreasing the ability to inhale and exhale.
Ribcage bones become thinner and change shape, altering the ribcage so that it is less able to expand and contract with breathing.
Lung tissue changes

Muscles and tissues that usually keep airways open lose elasticity, causing some to close.
Alveoli, the small sacs where the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide happens with the bloodstream, can lose their shape and become baggy.
Nervous system changes

The part of the brain that controls breathing may no longer send as strong or clear a signal to the lungs.
Nerves in airways that trigger coughing become less sensitive to foreign particles. When particles build up in the lungs, they can damage the lung tissue.
All of these changes can cause air to get trapped, decreasing the amount of oxygen moving in and carbon monoxide moving out of the bloodstream.


***

Lung function is dependent upon lung volumes, according to NCBI. The lung volumes are vital capacity, total lung capacity and residual volume. Vital capacity is the maximum amount of air that an individual can forcibly exhale after breathing in as deeply as possible, says The Free Dictionary by Farlex.
The vital capacity depends on the maximum inspiratory pressure, says NCBI. The MIP indicates diaphragm muscle strength, and the diaphragm is the most important breathing muscle. A decline in MIP correlates with a decline in vital capacity.
Men have an MIP that is 30 percent higher than women, but the decline in MIP with age is steeper for men than women, reports NCIB. They also found that the MIP declines by 0.8 centimeters to 2.7 centimeters of H2O per year. This means the diaphragm strength weakens with age, thus decreasing the vital capacity. Other age-related changes in the respiratory system, including structural changes in the chest wall, lead to an overall decline in the function of the respiratory system.

[BoMan]

Time catches up with everyone.....period....

Yep...but you can still have fun...


Maybe on something a little smaller.

[oldmansurfer]

There are old men who ride waves that size in their 60's and seventies

[icetime]

There are old men who ride waves that size in their 60's and seventies

They've got nothing to lose, they've enjoyed life to it's fullest already

[oldmansurfer]

As far as I know no one starts riding big waves at that age but maybe just can't stop because they have been doing it for so long. Look at Clyde Aikau. He still wants to charge em. Many of the older big wave guys from Oahu North Shore persisted into their 60's or maybe 70's. Big wave riders are living life to the fullest at every moment