All about the penalty

[BoMan]

With Surfing Magazine featuring a wipeout reel today, I thought we could share our favorite wipeout videos and “humbling experiences” in the ocean.

Puerto Escondido Wipeout Reel
http://www.surfingmagazine.com/video/puerto-escondido-wipeout-reel/#RhO4udVgYgJQOAoA.97

Surviving the bomb
It had been a long time since my last scare. I was paddling through the impact zone when an outside wave rose up in the distance. Since I’d been training hard in a pool, I just knew I could make it over the peak and decided to sprint out. It was a really bad call. No popper, turtle roll or popover was going to get me through. As the lip dropped I grabbed the nose and pulled it tight to my chest…another really bad call. I was sucked over the falls and got pounded into the sand and my board. No serious harm but I surfaced as a beat-up and humble man!

[oldmansurfer]

Ok so same situation and same error in judging when the wave will break what will you do now? Or same situation outside wave coming, you think you can make it over but remember the last time then what do you do? What have you learned from this?

[BoMan]

If I was under the lip again and there was no one near me I would bail out and swim deep.

If I could take back my bad paddling decision, I'd let the wave break outside and do a turtle roll under white water instead of the lip.

If I could take it all back, I would have paid attention to what was going on and taken a better line out!

[oldmansurfer]

Taking a better line out. I hope I remember that one too next time. That one solves the problem in the safest way. I still make mistakes though.

[dtc]

How about this penalty

https://www.instagram.com/p/BMFUWmeDcFD/?hl=en

[oldmansurfer]

kabloooie. One of the female pro surfers broke her ankle on something less than that.http://www.grindtv.com/surf/video-shows-surfer-lakey-peterson-breaking-her-ankle/#gXJ2AkI7X5mwqYtv.97

[Tudeo]

It was a really bad call.

Learning in surfing means learning to make better decisions.

The good thing about that is also when you get older and less physically fit, you can still improve your surfing.

The bad thing about it is mistakes can be punished severely.

[BoMan]

I am amazed how people will risk their lives surfing near rocks...

or attempting rocky entries and exits.

That stuff is definitely in my rear view mirror!

[Tudeo]

I am amazed how people will risk their lives surfing near rocks...

I sometimes do it to escape the crowds... This felt completely in control when surfing, but after watching the video I promised myself to be more carefull next time..