Your most frightening experience

[oldmansurfer]

I looked at it again and maybe he tried to eject but ended up pushing the board down the wave still in his way since he was falling the same direction. He should have re-turned the rail into the wave then he could have pushed the board away from him or on the other hand there would be no need to do this since both him and the board would just go straight to the bottom side by side instead of him over the top of the board which he kicked down the wave.

[RinkyDink]

I looked at it again and maybe he tried to eject but ended up pushing the board down the wave still in his way since he was falling the same direction. He should have re-turned the rail into the wave then he could have pushed the board away from him or on the other hand there would be no need to do this since both him and the board would just go straight to the bottom side by side instead of him over the top of the board which he kicked down the wave.

The more I look at it the more it seems like that wave was practically impossible to read. If the surfer had gone left for some strange reason, he would have seen the 3 foot top wave breaking on top of the ledge of the 7 foot death wall. Unfortunately, he was going right and from that perspective the wall of the wave looks like one smooth curved face belonging to one wave. However, you can see the second wave merge with the wave behind it because the second wave is marked out by its sandy composition. In other words, it kind of looks like one whole wave when it's really two waves combining. I think the sandy shorebreak wave may have been sucked back into the incoming wave causing the curvature of the wave to flatten out to a 90 degree-ish angle. I don't know if the guy riding could have noticed that or not. My takeaway from the video is steer clear of shorebreak as much as possible.

[oldmansurfer]

I surf difficult to surf waves all the time. I assure you it is not impossible to read. That guy maybe was clueless but others could do better. It is difficult to see double waves from the shoreline sometimes but from the water you can clearly see them. I bet I could figure out how to ride those waves. He probably should stay away but then Jamie O'Brian and his crew ride stuff like that sometimes on softops in the Waimea Bay shorebreak. Surfing is a different experience for everyone. You look and see impossible. I see a challenge and JOB sees fun stuff to play in.

[Surf Hound]

Every winter I experience some sort of situation I am not happy with. Over the years I have learned to roll with the punches so to speak. The thing that scares me the most is when I am all out of breath and make it over what I think is the last and biggest wave of the set..... then once you make it over realize a bigger wave is rolling in and you are not gonna make it over. Nothing worse than paddling towards the abyess, huffing puffing, knowing you are about to get slammed again. Those are the times I think about quitting surfing, at least that is what I tell myself if I make it over. Lol. I seldom make it over and haven't quit yet.

[BoMan]

The thing that scares me the most is when I am all out of breath and make it over what I think is the last and biggest wave of the set..... then once you make it over realize a bigger wave is rolling in and you are not gonna make it over.

Despite swimming 3 miles a week, this happens to me too...especially in the winter. When the periods get down to 12 seconds and waves rise to 5 feet, I just get BEAT UP. After making it out, I sit for quite a while to recover my strength. The "tea bag time" is not a total waste because I can watch other long boarders and notice changes in the break.

Lately I've tried riding waves all the way into shore, then walking up the beach to a rip where it's easier to paddle. It's fun to glide on the mushy reforms and practice cross stepping.