"Ride the Wave, Not the Board"– Duke Kahanamoku
An important part of "the wave" is the break.
Using a golf analogy, if you play St. Andrews with long fairways, hard greens, huge bunkers and strong winds you will use different skills than playing the par 3, short course at Meadowood. My sheltered, beach break with small, fast waves works great with longboards and longboard skills - trimming. cross stepping and nose riding. Use that at Teahupoo and be ready with a medevac.
A perfect board will be suited to the surfer's skill and the wave where he or she likes to ride.
