Will you go out when it is like this?

[BaNZ]

peazz, don't leave us hanging mate. We need photos of croyde now! Where are your gopro videos. I wish you would move to croyde. Find out all the secret local spots. Also you can rent out your house during summer on airbbnb!

I will give you a shout when I go to east coast again! If I ever see swells that is. I went on Sunday and it was freezing.

[oldmansurfer]

http://magicseaweed.com/news/spring-barrels-at-croyde/7369/ Here is a link to a video from Croyde

[peazz]

Banz, I have my gopro but the problem is I need a new bracket from the house > board, on my last day in bondi, I was paddling for the steepest, badest waves coming through the bay, I took one to far on the inside, didnt have enough speed and it through me arse over head, sent me straight into the bank and snapped my gopro bracket - lucky really, I only attached a proper surf mount the day before!.

If I can find one I am on it, but seriously right now all you would see is my wiping out, panting like I smoke 60 a day.

Ive been out 3 days so far, today was the easiest by far, sexy little a-frame 2 - 4ft peak but the problem is, a year out of the water I am really not in tune with the sea or my board, I keep wiping out.

[oldmansurfer]

Don't ever quit surfing....if you can avoid it. it sucks starting over but it will all come back with time in the water unless you get old like me

[peazz]

im 100% there with you O, once I get back from here I am hitting the gym and pool hard to keep semi in shape, cant wait until the flat sells to I can just relocate to the surf permanently.

Its depressing not to be getting any face time at all - its like im starting all over again, even down to remembering to keep crouched on the drop to keep my center of gravity low, but at the same time its so liberating to be back in the water, getting sent through the wash machine and wiping out.

I am the happiest I have been right now for over a year.... since I was last in the water.

[oldmansurfer]

Well Peazz IT"S ABOUT TIME!!!! Yeah I know what you mean , when I restarted I had trouble just paddling the board but it was great just to be out there in the surf. Long ago when I was in school, I woudn't surf for 4 to 5 months at a time but still could paddle into waves when I got back however after 12 years it was just like I never surfed before (except I knew how) and just to make all a lot more difficult, I was out of shape . Glad to hear you are back at it again.