Same as DBB for me - I often have 4 - 6 week breaks between breaks (between surfs) and its 2 steps back and 3 steps forward. I reckon it takes me a good 10 - 12 waves to get back to the level I was at when I was last surfing. In other words, after a break, it takes 1 to 2 sessions to just get back to the stage I was before the break and feel comfortable and that everything is back in place.
Only then can I start working on improvements. Its not that those first comeback waves are terrible, they are still lots of fun. But its shaking out the cobwebs, getting rid of the rust, however you want to put it. As DBB says, if you only have a weekend and if (like me) you have family and cant surf for 5 hours a day, it might be that by the end of the weekend you feel you have only reached the level you were when you last surfed - no improvement at all!
The two things I find the most
1. timing - my wave catching/timing just goes to pieces and I have to intentionally concentrate on positioning rather than just 'being there'. But once I catch the wave, popping up is usually no problem and easy turns and so forth are still there - any of the basic skills I already know how to do, just perhaps a bit stiff or rusty. But I can miss a heap of waves before getting 'that lovin feeling' of being in the right place all the time (and this is despite having bodyboarded/bodysurfed since I was about 7 - and, guess what - I can hope on a bodyboard and instantly be in the right place every time... to echo DBB, stupid muscle memory). I always tell myself to take out my longboard for the first session after an extended break just to get back into it because you can get away with being off in the timing a bit, but I hardly ever do (note to self: listen to your own good ideas once in a while).
2. wave size - I finish a week of surfing loving head high+ waves; I come back after a break and just want a few waist high easy fat waves to get me started - if the waves are head high or too steep I'm a bit nervous and being a 'Bambi' as DBB so eloquently puts it. Or a coward, as others might. This is sort of related to timing as well; not being confident in timing and you arent confident in difficult or larger waves. Or maybe the waves just look bigger when you dont have that familiarity?
However, once you have reached a level of competency you dont forget how to surf - you arent perling and missing the pop ups or that kind of thing - its your timing that goes for a session or two; and where you are trying to learn something you dont already have down pat (say a cutback) you sort of have to start again even if you were previously 50% of the way there. Your skills progress slows dramatically.
Paddling I dont really notice too much, although I generally stay fit and swim and go to the gym and stuff. But, possibly, the paddling is decreased and affects my timing without me realising it.
But its still heaps of fun, even if it can be frustrating at times. Very annoying to look forward to a surf and spend your time failing to catch waves and coming in all grumpy! Overall, of course, we are still very eager to get in the water
