Need help for buying my first board, and preparations!

[Simon]

Hey!

I live in a place where you can't go surfing without traveling far. So therefore I have only been surfing once, in a vacation. The thing is: In a few months I'm leaving for Fiji. I'm staying for 5 months, and would really like to surf alot!

Going to buy my own board, but I don't know which one to buy. Any tips? I'm only going to buy one board, since I'm a student and don't have alot of cash to use. I'd rather buy a medium(?) board which takes longer to learn, but gives me more in the end. (If anyone from Fiji or near is selling, that would be great! I prefer buying a used one). I'm 6' (183 cm) and 156 punds (71 kg).

I guess I also could need some exercise for learning/mastering the surfing faster. What is important to train?

Anyway, thanks for all feedback. Feel free to throw in some tip, since I actually do not know anything about surfing

[dtc]

I'm pretty sure Fiji only has one place/break that is suitable for beginners, which is Natadola Beach (because its a beach break). Everywhere else is a reef break and they are NOT for beginners. As a beginner's surfing destination, not so good. Its possible there are some other easy waves around, but most of the Fijian islands actually dont have any surf, because the whole area is surrounded by a reef. So inside the reef - nothing; outside the reef - big and tough waves.

If you are near Natadola Beach (about 45 min from Nadi), then its feasible. In which case, you are a beginner and will get the same advice as every beginner. Get something over 8ft and 22inches wide (for your weight, closer to 9ft) ie a standard longboard. In 5 months of constant surfing you will probably, at the end, feel quite comfortable on that board and may be considering a new board - but you can always stay on a longboard forever.

A board like this isnt suitable for reef breaks but since you wont be on the reef breaks, unless you like hospitals and annoying other surfers, it wont be an issue. In, say, 5 years, try the reefs

[jaffa1949]

Hi Simon, there is only that one spot in Fiji as dtc mentions. anything else you would be an absolute fool at risk of serious injury or death, some of the breaks that exist are accessible only from the resorts on nearby islands or a day boat trip so rocking up for a quick surf is not an option. Natadola or maybe Sigatoka rivermouth a bit further on towards the coral coast, sharkier and river currents.
BTW the further out you go you need to be aware that there are no lifeguard facilities and you will need to confident and competent in your water abilities.
My experience has only been at Hideaways and Cloudbreak ( smaller day) and Namotu and I had to surf at the top of my ability at the latter two.

Here are some links to surf schools in Fiji.
I don't know of any that I could recommend , but it is a starting point and maybe since you have 5 months there ( do what may I ask as i assume it would be work) you an get a real feel of it.
http://www.mangobayresortfiji.com/surfing.html
http://www.fijisurfschool.com
http://www.fijisurfco.com

Let us know how you go!

[Simon]

Thanks to both of you!
I will definitely check it out. Sad to hear it's not floating over with beginner spots , but I guess I will find something. I've heard Resorts Left can be good aswell? It's a point break..I don't really know what it means yet, but I hope I eventually can move on from the beach break to point break? Time will tell.

Fortunately I got a friend with me, so I'm not all by mysealf. And I like to think of myself as in good/medium shape, so I think I'm gonna survive down there.

Does it really takes 5 years to be that good? I was hoping of doing more than just surfing in the whitewater! What could make our chances of success higher?

And by the way jaffa1949, yes We're volunteering through Projects Abroad.

Thank you, I will let you know!

[dtc]

Does it really takes 5 years to be that good? I was hoping of doing more than just surfing in the whitewater! What could make our chances of success higher?

It doesnt take 5 years to learn to surf and be confident surfing large beach/point and even some reef breaks. You should be catching smallish unbroken waves after about 15-20 white water sessions, or less (although you will still crash and burn quite frequently). But Jaffa has been surfing for (I'm guessing here) 40+ years and, as he noted, some of the reef breaks required him to surf to the limits of his ability. The issue with reef breaks is that you take off in only a few feet of water, so if you mess it up then you hit the reef - sharp rocks etc. The waves often break faster and are steeper and more powerful than on the beach, so unless you know exactly what you are doing and how to do it, its a big risk.

A point break is just a wave that breaks on a point - eg a headland or rocky outcrop - rather than a beach. The wave itself may be easier to surf than a beach break, but usually getting to the wave (and back into the beach) requires more effort because they are further out. Plus often there are currents to deal with or you may need to mavouvere around rocks etc.

Jaffa's suggestion of a surf school is a good idea - if you have time (and the money), book into one of them for a week or so and see how you go. Everyone benefits from a good foundation.

Where are you going to be based? If you are in Nadi or Suva, then you can get to Natadola pretty easily for a weekend or day trip; but if you are in the 'highlands' or one of the other islands, then its going to be difficult.

Well done for the volunteering.

[jaffa1949]

Well done on the volunteering, that may give you a few more options to go with the time you have. The Fijian you help may well know some beaches at your level where surf gets to the shoreline through a coral pass, usually where fresh water flows into the sea.
They will know too how safe those spots will be.
If you get to surf a fair bit your skills will improve accordingly.
You are bound for a great experience,the taste of Kava will be a "fond" memory.

50 years + dtc codger style now.

[dtc]

50 years + dtc codger style now.

starting off with no leg rope and balsa boards? And probably no wetsuit. Youngsters these days have it so easy.

[jaffa1949]

Yep balsa pig board, woolen footy jumpers in winter, got a wetsuit in 62 a beaver tail diving suit!
We was tough, surfie / rocker wars. Classic times! Up the coast new beaches at times we were the first "Malibu" surfers.s
Short longboards after surf skis longboard to short board and now back long!
Some journey!
Just so you know, I've alway been just an average surfer whatever the era!